jkfisher84

Good question didn't even think about that!

JonG82

Haha, not a downer, all opinions and observations are always welcomed. Like I said again, its a very rough design and im always welcomed to improvement suggestions. But to answer your question, It's always a possibility, but the same goes for my off road box in the rear or anything else I dont have secure. I appreciate the observation and hope others take that into consideration as well. Thankfully im not selling this design so lawsuits are the least of my worries, just trying to help others save a buck. Thanks for the post

jkfisher84

Nicely put!

jcopel

Nice job. I like it! Also subscribed for parts. You could also add a security cable to keep it from being ripped off in no-top weather and also act as a safety tether.

HumblePie

That is frigging awesome. Nicely done!

2BAJeep

x3 I like the location and it looks like something I could even do....

Battlefrog

Nice! I'm glad you posted this because my Hi-lift will be here in a few days and I didn't want to spend the $65 for roll bar mount either...

Battlefrog

I think it's far enough to the left of roll bar (driverside) to stop it from launching and the rear seat headrests should also prevent it as well... If not, hope the reflexes are on point haha...

JonG82

Ok, as promised I went out to the local Home Depot this morning and got a list of the parts needed as well as some photos, i'll also try my best to explain some of the steps I took and a couple of photos of the parts themselves in case it may confuse or could give you some inspiration to build/improve your own. I'll also add in the prices of what I paid for the parts (keep in mind, I live in Oregon and we don't have sales tax, but this is still dirt cheap)...

Bracket for Base plate:
(2) 1/4" x 3/4" Hex Bolts - 11 cents ea. (Used to attach the Strap Tie to the Pipe Grip Tie.)
(Note: The Pipe Grip Tie will already have holes drilled where needed, but you will need to put the Pipe Grip Tie against the Strap Tie and drill the necessary holes through the Strap Tie using the holes in the Pipe Grip Tie as a template, just make sure you leave enough room for the left 5/16" x 2" Hex Bolt.)

(2) 1/4" Hex Nuts (To secure the 1/4" x 3/4" Hex bolts through the Strap Tie.)

(3) 5/16" x 2" Hex Botls - 22 cents ea.
(Note: These 3 Hex Bolts are probably larger then the 3 holes in the base of your Jack, at least they were for the HF Jack, so the base of the jack won't slide on smoothly until you open the holes a tad. I drilled and cleared out alittle in the holes of the Jack on the base using a 3/8 Ryobi Titanium drill bit, cut through like a Katana through butter.)

(3) 5/16" Hex Nuts (to secure the 2" hex bolts on the Jack Base side of the Strap Tie.)

(1) 3" x 7" Strap Tie - $1.78


(Note: Where the blue dots are is the areas I drilled through to fit the (3) 5/16"x2" Hex Bolts that go through the holes in the base of the jack, (You can set the jack on the plate, using the holes in the Jacks base and mark with a sharpie where the holes will need to be drilled). One of these 3 hex bolts will need to go through the Pipe Grip Tie which adds stability (Let me know if you need photos of this for clarification).)

(1) Pipe Grip Tie - $3.14


(Note: On the Pipe Grip Tie, you'll only need one side (unless you can find a need for the other side), so I just took a hacksaw to the other side and tried to smooth it off, others can probably have an eaiser means of doing this and make it look nicer. The Pipe Grip Tie will also come with the bolt to clamp it shut, I suggest replacing it with something maybe longer and similar as well as get a nut for the other side for added security when you clamp around the roll bar, I haven't done this yet but plan on it just in case.)


Bracket for top of the Jack:
(1) 1/4" x 2-1/2" Carriage Bolt - 92 cents
(Note: This will be your bolt to tighten and clamp the Conduit Hanger closed, use a wing nut or such to make it easier to remove. You will see that the Carriage Bolt will fit nicely into the Conduit Hanger's square hole. (that sounds so wrong).)

(1) 5/16" x 1-1/2" Hex Bolt - 20 cents
(This bolt will be sticking out of the Conduit Hanger and going through the holes at the top of your Hi-lift Jack. I used a 5/16" wing nut to secure the Jack onto the Conduit Hanger.)

(1) Conduit Hanger #5 - $2.30

(Note: You will need the Carriage bolt to clamp the Conduit Hanger shut secured with a wing nut at the end to make it easier to remove. The Conduit Hanger DOES come with a bolt but it is far too short to clamp shut when the Conduit Hanger is around your Roll Bar.)

Additional parts you will need are (4) 5/16" - 18 Wing Nuts; (3) Wing Nuts to secure the base of the jack onto the Base Bracket and (1) Wing Nut for the top of the Jack.

(Whew! )

Let me know if anything isn't clear or you need photos. Also, if you come up with anything better/safer, please share, would love to see it! Thank you to all for the compliments as well as the observations!!

Rubichronic

Nice work. I bought the hi-lift mounts, and a couple days later my friend made is own using muffler clamps and butterfly nuts. i spent 80bucks, he spent 10bucks. I would use stronger, graded hardware, other than that awesome idea and i wouldn't worry about the jack turning into a projectile as long as it is properly secured.