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Manual to Auto

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Old 05-18-2009, 07:25 PM
  #11  
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an auto is better on the rocks. My Uncle has 6 Jeeps (2 CJ's, 2 TJ's, and a cherokee) all extremely modified and all are autos. No one has three feet making an auto an easy choice. still dont understand why so many people say "its not a jeep if its not a manual" is it because theyre just ignorant?
Old 05-26-2009, 10:53 AM
  #12  
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manual to auto should be much easier than auto to manual imo!!!
Old 05-26-2009, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KY.
an auto is better on the rocks. My Uncle has 6 Jeeps (2 CJ's, 2 TJ's, and a cherokee) all extremely modified and all are autos. No one has three feet making an auto an easy choice. still dont understand why so many people say "its not a jeep if its not a manual" is it because theyre just ignorant?
Manuals give you better control of your speed, they offer better engine braking on hills, and if you have a heavily modified rig, it cost about 15 bucks to put in a hand throttle. Which is more precise than a foot throttle anyway, especially if you are running a 200-300:1 crawl ratio. I know several guys with full blown tube buggies that run manuals.

Autos rock for sand and mud, or anywhere that wheel speed matters. For crawling on rocks, either works fine. Personally, I prefer manuals because you get 90% of your torque to the wheels, instead of 70%. Water wont hurt a manual (unless you are cursed with the POS clutch in JK's), and generally, a manual will last forever (unless you are cursed with a JK :P )


As for switching from a manual to an auto, you need the trans, shifter stuff, and an ecu from an auto trans engine. As the ecu controls the transmission.
Old 05-27-2009, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Stuka
Manuals give you better control of your speed, they offer better engine braking on hills, and if you have a heavily modified rig, it cost about 15 bucks to put in a hand throttle. Which is more precise than a foot throttle anyway, especially if you are running a 200-300:1 crawl ratio. I know several guys with full blown tube buggies that run manuals.

Autos rock for sand and mud, or anywhere that wheel speed matters. For crawling on rocks, either works fine. Personally, I prefer manuals because you get 90% of your torque to the wheels, instead of 70%. Water wont hurt a manual (unless you are cursed with the POS clutch in JK's), and generally, a manual will last forever (unless you are cursed with a JK :P )


As for switching from a manual to an auto, you need the trans, shifter stuff, and an ecu from an auto trans engine. As the ecu controls the transmission.
You can get 100% with an auto if you wire in a switch and relay to the torque converter clutch circuit. I've done it more than once. It works really well. Of course, you better be ready to flip the switch if she rolls to a stop. LOL Really works better with a spring loaded momentary on switch, mounted on the shifter. Then there's also the Clutchamatic setup. Removes the torque converter altogether and replaces it with a spline drive from the crank to the front pump input shaft, and includs a "clutch" pedal assembly to control flow from the front pump. I know they are available for the GM 350 and 400, and the Chrysler torque flights. I'm sure a good transmission man could make it work for pretty much anything. I've driven an old dirt track Chevelle so equipped....and lemmie tell you, it's FUN.
Old 05-27-2009, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
You can get 100% with an auto if you wire in a switch and relay to the torque converter clutch circuit. I've done it more than once. It works really well. Of course, you better be ready to flip the switch if she rolls to a stop. LOL Really works better with a spring loaded momentary on switch, mounted on the shifter. Then there's also the Clutchamatic setup. Removes the torque converter altogether and replaces it with a spline drive from the crank to the front pump input shaft, and includs a "clutch" pedal assembly to control flow from the front pump. I know they are available for the GM 350 and 400, and the Chrysler torque flights. I'm sure a good transmission man could make it work for pretty much anything. I've driven an old dirt track Chevelle so equipped....and lemmie tell you, it's FUN.
Interesting setup, I have not seen one of those myself.

Although you will never get 100% torque through a transmission. Typical manual setups have a 10-15% power loss, autos lose more according to their size. TH400's have a loss of a 35%, TH350's around around 30%. If if you have a lockup converter, you are still driving the pumps inside which have parasitic powerloss. But a lockup converter on a switch can help a lot.

Ultimately its user preference in most cases. For me, unless its all sand, mud, or a drag strip, I dislike slushboxes.
Old 05-29-2009, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by KY.
an auto is better on the rocks. My Uncle has 6 Jeeps (2 CJ's, 2 TJ's, and a cherokee) all extremely modified and all are autos. No one has three feet making an auto an easy choice. still dont understand why so many people say "its not a jeep if its not a manual" is it because theyre just ignorant?
When I first got into rock crawling with my '07 X, I would have agreed 100%. I now respectfully disagree in my '08 Rubi. Both JK's were manuals. With the Rubi's crawl ratio and better technique I can crawl anything with finess. You don't need 3 feet because you literally don't need to touch the gas pedal when you're in 1st or 2nd gear in 4-Lo.

If it's super steep or the rock is big enough, the JK will hold with plenty of time to slide your feet from clutch and brake to brake and gas.

I don't think manual is better in the rocks, but I don't think it's worse either.

Around town, manual is more of a hassle. I would not trade the manual for an auto b/c of the previously mentioned power loss.

Now, if we could get the CRD with the 5AT that's in Europe that would have been in my driveway since day one.

Last edited by shredX; 05-29-2009 at 03:12 PM.
Old 06-06-2009, 05:52 PM
  #17  
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it would be real easy if you sell your Jeep and buy a used one



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