bsack

to be honest the brand of welder is of little importance. You can tighten a bolt with a craftsman wrench or a knockoff brand as long as its the proper size and you know what you are doing. Having skill to weld is the most important factor, once you have basic skills and knowledge of the processes and weld properties you could weld with any machine. The only difference between brands when comparing similar processes and machine capabilities is on warranty, quality, and brand support. For the garage welder you most likely wont be using the welder to such an extent that a short warranty offered on the main brands would come into use. Use the price differenc between a cheaper welder and the top end and take a class, then you can make a educated decision on what to spend your loot on. But the one guy was right-buy a nice welding hood(there is like a $5 difference between expensive and cheap .)

only_in_my_jeep

#1 take a class. Not only do you get the basics you also get to use their steel to learn on which right now is a plus do to the rising costs of metals. As far as where to take one some public school systems offer night classes for adults and I got the chance to take basic welding and then Mig and Tig the next go around for like $120 total for both classes. You end up with a certificate and everything (like that paper means a lot to us DIY types no offense to guys who make their money off the paper).
#2 I know plug and play welders are cheap and easy to operate but there is a lot to be said for a good 220 machine. Yes you need a dedicated 220 circut and most of us can't do that off the house but if you can it offers a lot broader range of weld ability. I had (till I loaned it to a cousin who burned it up) a jam up 220 machine that I could almost weld stuff as thin as a beer can yet as thick as armour plating. However a lot had to do with the sticks I used as well as set up and skill (some things you learn as you go as well as in class).
#3 do not be put off by a machine that states it will only weld metals so thick. A secret about welding is using multiple passes to get a good weld. Beveled edges so that the joint is within the thickness and then you fill in can be done. It uses a lot of wire/sticks but it can be done. The welding only so thick has more to do with penetration depth. Yes some will say a single pass does a better job but as I learned in school when welding 1" plate you bevel the edge and make multiple passes. Which is also a good reason to go to school because not only do you get to use their steel but also their supplies to learn with.
Now in all of this keep in mind I am not a welder for a living and what you need depends on what you are going to do however a good rule of thumb is think stronger on any tool. With a welder the high range means just that extreem high range so the bigger a piece one states the better. Think of it this way if you have a welder that will do stuff 1" thick max it will not do anything 4"(see above) however it welds real good on stuff 1/2" thick. If you run it at the max it will also have a lot more wear and tear than if you run it halfway.

ThinkMud

Thanks everyone for the input! I can't believe we have so many welders on here. I do want to take a class. I will start looking soon. I think I will also hold off on buying a welder until after I at least start the class and learn a tad more.

only_in_my_jeep

I would not call myself a welder. Maybe a guy who can weld but a welder by definition is someone who makes a living welding. LOL Take the class you will thank yourself for it and despite it being fairly easy some folks (like my dad when he was alive and took the class) are never cut out to weld.

crux

Actually, that someone who welds would be a "WELDOR"

only_in_my_jeep

Okay what do you want a gold star or a cookie?

crux

cookie

CHOPPER

If you have a Tech school in your town or near-by, that would probably be one of your best bets for finding a place to get weekend or night classes for welding.

Once you learn a bit the rest is up to you...Practice, Practice, Practice.
It's kind of like riding a unicycle...You'll get better the more you do it.

You would be better off getting a small 110 amp gas mig welder, because then you have the option of useing the flux core wire if you happen to run out of the
gas. Welding with the gas is better, but there is nothing wrong with useing flux core if that's all you got. That's one of the reasons they make anti-spatter spray. Which you can find at a welding store along with a good mask.

WARNING!!!! Do not make the mistake of buying brazing or cutting torch goggles
to use with the welder!!!!
The dark green glass filter in the goggles may seem similar to a welding mask, but its not enough protection for welder use. Talk to a professional when it comes to your eye protection.

Zylfrax791

Nah, I disagree. I've used plenty of crappy welders and for a person just learning it could be really frustrating. There is difference between Lincoln, Miller, ESAB and Snap-On compared to the cheap Chinese junk. Anyone who welds a lot knows this. As far as using the comparison that craftsman wrenchs or a knockoff brand are just as good as an expensive wrench you are incorrect again. When I started out as an Auto Tech I used to think the same as you but after busting many knuckles and making many trips to Sears for replacements I finally figured out that having a nice basic sets of hand tools by Snap-On are well worth the cost compared to the pain and frustration caused by inferior quality tools.

Using a cheap welder and Harbor Freight wrenches is like eating a can of dog food. It might do the job and fill you up but I'd rather pay a little extra and eat a steak...

bsack

I do know what Im talking about and giving the guy advice based on expertise. 2 year welding degree. Taught night and Saturday class for 2 years at same college. Did welding for same college. Was on the Advisory Board for same welding department upon graduation. Worked in union boilermaker shop as shop boy while going to welding school. Welding certs include WABO light gauge-stick, FCAW and stick unlimited, and WASDOT rebar up to #10 butt weld, contact and indirect laps. Im a Ironworker project supervisor currently building a 23 story, having been an ironworker for 10 years after completing a 4 year apprenticeship. I have built schools, hospitals, colleges, hotels, highrises, bridges, overpasses, wharehouses, ferry docks, fixed earthquake damaged buildings, and shored up desroyed buildings so school kids could attend class, etc. I think my advice is sound and based on a careers knowledge and translated into info that would be handy for a guy doing some welding in his garage. He doesn't need a top of the line machine. Duty cycle and the such are of no importance to a guy laying down a few inches of weld a month. What is important is having a fundamental knowledge of weld physics and the properties of the weldment. And having the more expensive of something is nice but not needed, especially if on a tight budget. So Im dying to know where your welding knowledge comes from.