Got my canoe rack done
#53
#54
JK Freak
#55
Yes, I will as soon as it is done. I have come to the realization that a hammer drill is a must, but I'm running into issues drilling the 3/4 holes so I'm figuring that out.
Here's an updated driagram with the hole sizes required for the screws. Will post pictures when holes are done.
Here's an updated driagram with the hole sizes required for the screws. Will post pictures when holes are done.
Last edited by levosgien; 03-25-2011 at 06:47 AM.
#58
Ok guys, finally got done with my rack, powder-coated them and here's the end result. Not problem getting the soft-top off (no rub). Only downside is the noise in the wind, will have to address but pretty minor until I hit 45-50.
The wholes facing out are about 5/8, and I found some caps that cover them, i don't want water going through if I can help it. Also got some gasket scrap from a friend, which was perfect to hold the bar firm against the car without scratching it.
Cut the front bar as short as I could to keep things clean.
Used gasket between the metal bar and the car, worked out well.
Here are the 5/8 holes without caps.
Dry-dock at the back can be used for the height adjustment, here the kayak almost touch but are still clear off the roof.
Without top, without saddles.
The wholes facing out are about 5/8, and I found some caps that cover them, i don't want water going through if I can help it. Also got some gasket scrap from a friend, which was perfect to hold the bar firm against the car without scratching it.
Cut the front bar as short as I could to keep things clean.
Used gasket between the metal bar and the car, worked out well.
Here are the 5/8 holes without caps.
Dry-dock at the back can be used for the height adjustment, here the kayak almost touch but are still clear off the roof.
Without top, without saddles.
Last edited by levosgien; 04-25-2011 at 06:04 AM.
#60
----
1) Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
2) To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
3) I don't remember but it's something that can be custom based on how much clearange you'll want. I think it's probably around 16" for my part.
Some lessons learned:
1) When drilling the 1 3/8 whole for the bar, make sure you drill it through the bar as opposed to make two separate holes. Mine were done independently and ended up being a little misaligned (not much but better without)
2) Go on the safe side in terms of the wholes that hole the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
3) You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust.
4) The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.