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Got my canoe rack done

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Old 05-12-2009, 12:21 AM
  #41  
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Oh......and by the way......Great Idea on the canoe rack!......now ya got me thinkin'
Old 10-08-2010, 04:38 AM
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Where do you get this black plastic insert that goes inside the hole you drill into the tubing? I can see how that is key to preventing the bar from moving.

Thanks, great mod!
Old 10-08-2010, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by levosgien
Where do you get this black plastic insert that goes inside the hole you drill into the tubing?
Originally Posted by arjflyr
There is an insert that goes in the end of the tubing. Once you put the cross bar through it, a cam bolt tightens it in place. I got them from Yakima. It is the same ones that were on the uprights for the Yakima Dry Dock I used on the back.
Looks great by the way! I was wondering how I was going to haul mine around, and this looks like just the ticket.

-WRM
Old 10-08-2010, 06:42 AM
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WRM - I don't mean the cap that goes at the end of the tubes, but the back insert that goes into the metal tube and comes into contact with the bar.

I checked the Yakima site and can't find anything that resembles them...I don't know the words so maybe I'm just getting confused
Old 10-08-2010, 09:40 AM
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If you go to the Yakima website and under the Support section they have a section for replacement parts. Those are the end caps that are used on the Dry Dock. The part number is 8820082. I can't remember if I was able to order them directly from Yakima or if I went through a local dealer.
Old 10-08-2010, 10:50 AM
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Finally got it, I didn't see the "Replacement Parts" section under the DryDock page even. Local dealers here are bike shops or sports auth. so I think I'll have to go through Yakima directly.



Hey arjflyr, got any dimensions on the bar or does that not matter very much.

Thanks!
Old 10-20-2010, 07:17 AM
  #47  
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Ok managed to get the following:

1) Clamp parts notes above
2) Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))

Need help figuring out the length of the bars, and most importantly how to cut those large holes. If anyone has an idea that'd be great.

Thanks.
Old 10-20-2010, 11:29 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by arjflyr

Looks good. I'm looking for something to carry my kayak. May have to do somrthing like that. Thanks for the ideas!
Old 02-25-2011, 10:12 AM
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I have some of questions for anyone who has made this rack.

1) What size hole is needed for the Yakima cam lock part at the top, where the crossbar passes through?

2) What is the best and/or easiest way to make that large hole?

3) How long are the vertical support bars?

Thanks.
Old 02-25-2011, 10:36 AM
  #50  
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Hey, did mine last week finally and almost worked, ran into some issues that should save you some time:

1) Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE

2) To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.

3) I don't remember but it's something that can be custom based on how much clearange you'll want. I think it's probably around 16" for my part.

Some lessons learned:

1) When drilling the 1 3/8 whole for the bar, make sure you drill it through the bar as opposed to make two separate holes. Mine were done independently and ended up being a little misaligned (not much but better without)

2) Go on the safe side in terms of the wholes that hole the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.

3) You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust.

4) The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.


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