Got my canoe rack done
#42
Where do you get this black plastic insert that goes inside the hole you drill into the tubing? I can see how that is key to preventing the bar from moving.
Thanks, great mod!
#43
-WRM
#44
WRM - I don't mean the cap that goes at the end of the tubes, but the back insert that goes into the metal tube and comes into contact with the bar.
I checked the Yakima site and can't find anything that resembles them...I don't know the words so maybe I'm just getting confused
I checked the Yakima site and can't find anything that resembles them...I don't know the words so maybe I'm just getting confused
#45
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Minnesota
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If you go to the Yakima website and under the Support section they have a section for replacement parts. Those are the end caps that are used on the Dry Dock. The part number is 8820082. I can't remember if I was able to order them directly from Yakima or if I went through a local dealer.
#46
Finally got it, I didn't see the "Replacement Parts" section under the DryDock page even. Local dealers here are bike shops or sports auth. so I think I'll have to go through Yakima directly.
Hey arjflyr, got any dimensions on the bar or does that not matter very much.
Thanks!
Hey arjflyr, got any dimensions on the bar or does that not matter very much.
Thanks!
#47
Ok managed to get the following:
1) Clamp parts notes above
2) Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))
Need help figuring out the length of the bars, and most importantly how to cut those large holes. If anyone has an idea that'd be great.
Thanks.
1) Clamp parts notes above
2) Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))
Need help figuring out the length of the bars, and most importantly how to cut those large holes. If anyone has an idea that'd be great.
Thanks.
#49
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rapid City, SD
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I have some of questions for anyone who has made this rack.
1) What size hole is needed for the Yakima cam lock part at the top, where the crossbar passes through?
2) What is the best and/or easiest way to make that large hole?
3) How long are the vertical support bars?
Thanks.
1) What size hole is needed for the Yakima cam lock part at the top, where the crossbar passes through?
2) What is the best and/or easiest way to make that large hole?
3) How long are the vertical support bars?
Thanks.
#50
Hey, did mine last week finally and almost worked, ran into some issues that should save you some time:
1) Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
2) To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
3) I don't remember but it's something that can be custom based on how much clearange you'll want. I think it's probably around 16" for my part.
Some lessons learned:
1) When drilling the 1 3/8 whole for the bar, make sure you drill it through the bar as opposed to make two separate holes. Mine were done independently and ended up being a little misaligned (not much but better without)
2) Go on the safe side in terms of the wholes that hole the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
3) You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust.
4) The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.
1) Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
2) To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
3) I don't remember but it's something that can be custom based on how much clearange you'll want. I think it's probably around 16" for my part.
Some lessons learned:
1) When drilling the 1 3/8 whole for the bar, make sure you drill it through the bar as opposed to make two separate holes. Mine were done independently and ended up being a little misaligned (not much but better without)
2) Go on the safe side in terms of the wholes that hole the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
3) You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust.
4) The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.