FYRLYT lights.. anyone have them?
#11
JK Junkie
I live in deer country and my 7" HIDX lights work well on the back roads.
In October, I can drive my 10 mile commute to work on the highway and will see at least 20 carcasses a DAY.
In October, I can drive my 10 mile commute to work on the highway and will see at least 20 carcasses a DAY.
#13
JK Junkie
Yep. That's the same here. Moose are a real problem on our roads. Anyone ever cones to Newfoundland , slow down at night. Please! These are deadly if you hit one.
#14
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: adelaide Australia
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry, I was on their site and there is no way that their bulbs out perform hid. 5000 lumens from 150w of halogen is fine however I get 5500 lumens from 55w of hid power. Then you have reliability. 150w halogens with burn out much faster because of heat, they fail to tell you that. My last set of hid bulbs lasted 2.5 years they were installed in two vehicles, run about 150,000 kms. One bulb burnt out at the end of that 2.5 year time frame. At ghat same point I had 130 w bulbs in my hella lights, went through 4 of them. I like their design, very well built. But the bulb is the weak point.
HID real Lumen outputs and what your not being told.
All 35 watt units measure watts OUTPUT of ballast to lamp, OEM or Aftermarket (China) Note INPUT to 35watt units is approx 42 watts.
Average lumen output = 2800 /3200L
Osram and Phillips / OEM have approximately 90 lumens watt output where as lamps made in China are in the range of 75 /85 lumen watt output.
All HIDs ABOVE 35 watt. EG: /50w /70w /100w measure INPUT to ballast and not OUTPUT, therefore to get watts to the lamp x 80% ( 20% ballast losses) to get approx watts: EG: 50w input x 80% = 40w to lamp x approx 85% Lumen / watts (China) = 3400Lumen output, not 5000Lumens plus as some claim.
70w x 80% = 56 watts x 85% L/W 4760Lumens output, not 6500Lumens as claimed
100watt x 80% =80 watts x 85L/w =approx 7000 Lumen (102.3 watts INPUT as tested by me)
It appears everybody in advertising and on these forums just grabs the stated watts INPUT or OUTPUT,( who cares, nobody will notice) and multiplies it X Osram OEM HID efficiency of 90 Lumen/watts to get a fictitious number that sounds good. They neglect to include the ballast losses in the quoted HID sizes above the 35 watt units
From your base lumen output from a 35watt Hid of 4300 kelvin your lumen output (intensity) will decrease by approx 5% per 1000 kelvin upwards on top of the previous calculations.
These numbers vary slightly due to manufacturing tolerances but close enough to do your own calculations
Info on advertised and actual data on 100 watt HID kits.
I have just purchased and done some tests on an Australian supplied 100watt HID kit. It is advertised as having a current draw of 7.8amps @13.2v = 102.96 watts input from the battery to the ballast. Prior to purchase I asked the vendor if this constant current draw was correct, and was told it was more like 7.3 amps. = 96.36watts input. ( The ones supplied to me draw a constant 102.3watts input) I also asked if the lab sphere tests were done in a NATA ( National Association of Testing Authorities) approved lab. The reply was " nobody asks those questions". I then asked do they put out the stated 9,985 lumens, and the reply was " well your eyes can play tricks on you"
But I purchased them anyway as I was curious as to the output.
When I do my calculations with their stated 80% ballast efficiency I only get 81.84 watts OUTPUT to the lamp and at a lumen output of approx 85L/w I get lamp an output of 6,956Lumens.
At this point I emailed the manufacturer (not the distributor) and asked if the input of my ballasts were correct, " they said it was ". Also I asked the output of the ballast, and was told "75watts".
This gives a ballast conversion of 75% =102.3 x.75% = 76.72 watts x .85L/w =6521Lumens not 9,985L. They would have to be getting 130L/w to put out 9.985Lumens as claimed.
Hope this helps clear up the claims of HID outputs
#15
JK Junkie
I'm going on real world. Not math in labs. I installed 55w hids in my hella lights that used to have halogen 130w in them the hid light is brighter than the halgogen.
I'm not saying fyrlyt is not a good light but the same if not better can be had cheaper with way less draw on the system than the fyrlyt.
I'm not saying fyrlyt is not a good light but the same if not better can be had cheaper with way less draw on the system than the fyrlyt.
#16
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: adelaide Australia
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going on real world. Not math in labs. I installed 55w hids in my hella lights that used to have halogen 130w in them the hid light is brighter than the halgogen.
I'm not saying fyrlyt is not a good light but the same if not better can be had cheaper with way less draw on the system than the fyrlyt.
I'm not saying fyrlyt is not a good light but the same if not better can be had cheaper with way less draw on the system than the fyrlyt.
Obvoiously you are going to need to see it to believe it, but I had the same statement re the 130 watt halogens made here.
I it appears you don,t agree with maths in labs but it is difficult to beat the laws of physics even in the real world.
Re a viewers question in Australia on 130watt halogen against 70 watt HID inserts, as to why the HIDs were better than his old 130 watt halogens
Contrary to what people are led to believe however, not all halogens are made the same.
The 130 watt lamp has a relatively low lumen watt output whereas the 24 volt x 150 watt halogen lamps in the FYRLYT put out 33.3 lumens per watt
Halogen lamps vary depending an gas makeup, pressure and lamp life but they have Lumen/Watt outputs between about 17L/w and 35L/w and the 130watt halogens are in the 19 to 20 l/w range which is about half the 70 watt HID output, also they would look brighter because the colour rendering of a HID (Closer to Blue) 4300Kelvin + has more glare, your pupils do not respond well to blue light and contract as they do with halogen up to 3300Kelvin. Hence why even a low wattage blue lamp looks bright (glare) even though the lumen output is much lower and blue filters ( blue painted lamp or filters) give more glare due to the short wavelength blue light reflecting ( dispersing ) up to 16 times more than yellow (long wavelength) light.
I have nothing against HIDS but you need over 70 watts to the lamp of hid to get 5000 lumens output and then the glare starts to become a big factor in their use especially with people using 5000 /6000 kelvin lamps
#17
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: adelaide Australia
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Kojack
Obvoiously you are going to need to see it to believe it, but I had the same statement re the 130 watt halogens made here.
I it appears you don,t agree with maths in labs but it is difficult to beat the laws of physics even in the real world.
Re a viewers question in Australia on 130watt halogen against 70 watt HID inserts, as to why the HIDs were better than his old 130 watt halogens
Contrary to what people are led to believe however, not all halogens are made the same.
The 130 watt lamp has a relatively low lumen watt output whereas the 24 volt x 150 watt halogen lamps in the FYRLYT put out 33.3 lumens per watt
Halogen lamps vary depending an gas makeup, pressure and lamp life but they have Lumen/Watt outputs between about 17L/w and 35L/w and the 130watt halogens are in the 19 to 20 l/w range which is about half the 70 watt HID output, also they would look brighter because the colour rendering of a HID (Closer to Blue) 4300Kelvin + has more glare, your pupils do not respond well to blue light and contract as they do with halogen up to 3300Kelvin. Hence why even a low wattage blue lamp looks bright (glare) even though the lumen output is much lower and blue filters ( blue painted lamp or filters) give more glare due to the short wavelength blue light reflecting ( dispersing ) up to 16 times more than yellow (long wavelength) light.
I have nothing against HIDS but you need over 70 watts to the lamp of hid to get 5000 lumens output and then the glare starts to become a big factor in their use especially with people using 5000 /6000 kelvin lamps
Obvoiously you are going to need to see it to believe it, but I had the same statement re the 130 watt halogens made here.
I it appears you don,t agree with maths in labs but it is difficult to beat the laws of physics even in the real world.
Re a viewers question in Australia on 130watt halogen against 70 watt HID inserts, as to why the HIDs were better than his old 130 watt halogens
Contrary to what people are led to believe however, not all halogens are made the same.
The 130 watt lamp has a relatively low lumen watt output whereas the 24 volt x 150 watt halogen lamps in the FYRLYT put out 33.3 lumens per watt
Halogen lamps vary depending an gas makeup, pressure and lamp life but they have Lumen/Watt outputs between about 17L/w and 35L/w and the 130watt halogens are in the 19 to 20 l/w range which is about half the 70 watt HID output, also they would look brighter because the colour rendering of a HID (Closer to Blue) 4300Kelvin + has more glare, your pupils do not respond well to blue light and contract as they do with halogen up to 3300Kelvin. Hence why even a low wattage blue lamp looks bright (glare) even though the lumen output is much lower and blue filters ( blue painted lamp or filters) give more glare due to the short wavelength blue light reflecting ( dispersing ) up to 16 times more than yellow (long wavelength) light.
I have nothing against HIDS but you need over 70 watts to the lamp of hid to get 5000 lumens output and then the glare starts to become a big factor in their use especially with people using 5000 /6000 kelvin lamps
Not 58 watts to the ballast.
#18
JK Junkie
As I said, numbers crunching is fine. I have yet to see a halogen bulb come close to hid in output and keep reasonable draw on the system. I never buy anything over 4300. The light does not get brighter because of a housing only how the light is focused
If you use the. Fyrlyt and like them, awesome. I use my hid hella and love them and so does my charging system.
If you use the. Fyrlyt and like them, awesome. I use my hid hella and love them and so does my charging system.
#19
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: adelaide Australia
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As I said, numbers crunching is fine. I have yet to see a halogen bulb come close to hid in output and keep reasonable draw on the system. I never buy anything over 4300. The light does not get brighter because of a housing only how the light is focused
If you use the. Fyrlyt and like them, awesome. I use my hid hella and love them and so does my charging system.
If you use the. Fyrlyt and like them, awesome. I use my hid hella and love them and so does my charging system.
Hi Kojack
Thanks for the reply, I thought we were discussing lumen outputs of HIDs against halogens, not current draw per lumen or I would have agreed with you on that note and I agree housing design does not have a whole lot to do with light output but obviously you have a great deal of experience with light design and it appears there is nothing I can add to your knowledge so we will have to agree to disagree and leave it at that.
Thanks again for sharing you viewpoint
David Holmes
#20
JK Junkie
I'm not flipping out just stating my views on halogen vs hid. As I said in the beginning the fyrlyt has a great housing construction. However to tout they are the brightest light is false.