Suffolk JK

I wanted to know if the factory roll bar is strong enough to support a roll over. If so, is it good enough to weld tubing, same diameter and wall thickness as the factory one, to tie both sides together in the rear, front, and add triangulation to both front and rear to make a complete roll cage.

Also, is it good enough to add a section of tubing, bracing both sides of the seatbelt pillars behind the front seats, to add a harness, just in case of a roll over.

Thanks.

scotlandjk

if you roll at highway speeds i dont think it holds up all that great.


but ive seen a few guys on their roof whislt wheeling and it still looked reasonably intact.

Suffolk JK

Well, I'm aiming more toward wheeling roll overs, not highway rollovers. There is no desert wheeling here, straight rock crawling in wooded trails. So if I did roll over, at most, I'll be on my side or roof (1/2 turn), and that's pushing it.

Mike536

From a welding point i'd say if your not a qualtified welder stay away from welding on them. If you don't get 100% penetration your taking your life in your hands. I think you''d be lucky to find a qualified welder to weld on them as well. No one wants to take that kind of a chance. Not to mention you could probably void insurance claims if you get in an accident and the insurance company sees welding done on them.
My 2 cents.

TORN

I also have been thinking about adding a crossbar brace for the rear of the roll bars on the top. I have a 2 dr.

Suffolk JK

I won't be doing the welding myself. I'll be taking to my guy who owns a shop and has been welding for YEARS. He's welded up rollcages forever so I know it'll be a good job.

I'm asking from a strength standpoint if the factory rollbar is strong enough to get "beefed" up or will it all buckle under one roll over?

bOLsAK=3

If you have ever taken down your front windshield, you would know the answer to your question.

scottrock

Well, first problem would be that the JK doesn't have a true "roll bar". It's a "sport bar". The difference being that the bars are attached to the body and do not tie into the frame. As an example of what could be done, someone out there makes a "tie in" kit for TJ's that consist of a short length of appropriately bent tubing, with mounting points top and bottom, that connect the bottom of the sport bar to framerail.

The end result of this can have a huge affect on road noise, vibration, etc as you have just connected your body to your frame so for a daily driver it would be an issue.

This is a flopped TJ without the tie in kit



The whole drivers side of the Jeep was bent 6" to port. IMO, totaled. Whole body was tweaked heavily.


Another issue would be the strength of the factory steel. If you're serious about it, the sport bars could be removed and a whole new cage could be welded in. Just some food for thought.

Screamin Lizard Customs

All the frame tie in the world wasn't going to help that Tj. Thats straight up crappy factory cage. Check out our Brute, same thing, even with added cage work.

scottrock

True, that was a very hard hit.

On your pic: OW! that had to hurt.