rb1boxer_3

Awesome. Mine should be in Monday but now my jeep is back at the dealership and looks like I might be getting a lemon so ill have to wait and see which jeep will wear these.

bob-o

Oh now what's wrong with Ur jeep

rb1boxer_3

After the head got replaced its been having extended cranking. They replaced right after a radiator fan 3 key modules 1 tipm and 1 PCM now the jeep is turning on and off and won't read the VIN.

bob-o

Holy crap that sucks. I wish you luck. Hopefully you get your jeep back fixed or a new one

883IRONhorse

Bob-o

Did you use a nutsert tool or the wrench and bolt method?

I've started the install, been using the bolt and wrench method. It sucks...the nutserts that came in the kit, tips are wider in circumference than gripped threaded area. So naturally everyone nutsert spins after getting it in the hole. Its impossible to fasten it unless I put vise grips.

883IRONhorse

Nice! I did the same thing, I didn't see that in the directions. If a bolt goes in it, why would have a counter sunk hole.

My left rock skin was missing a counter sunk hole. Oops! Quality insurance must have missed that.

883IRONhorse

What are people doing about the gaping and open cavities between the skin and body?

Someone mentioned RTV, but the cavity in the lower corner is pretty big. Doesn't sit as flush as I would have thought. Anyone fill it with expanding foam to prevent dirt and water logging in there?

blockrockin

i used black silicon... fills in the area nice.. and gives it a finished look

Prime8

Haha, I understand your question (I think the other guy stopped reading before you mentioned the large gaps). I left the large gaps and just sealed the top and front surfaces so that rain water wouldn't come down into there. I also put a bead about 1" in from the edge on the entire backside before mounting. In the lower corner areas, the bead just dried to the back of the skins and never contacted the body though. Some vertical beads that connect the top and bottom perimeter beads would help to "compartmentalise" the back of the skins, insuring that no matter when the skin stopped contacting the body there isn't a large pocket for water. If you make sure to wash in there well and you were as anal to keep your paint perfect and touched up every step of the install as I was, you can avoid corrosion back there. I have no idea if spray foam would work. I don't know what kind if force it exerts while curing. I'd hate to have it pop nutserts or bow out the underlying sheet metal... If you try it though, post a write up and pictures and I'll follow suit!

bob-o

I used the bolt and wrench method for installing the nutserts.

Heres a pic of what you need.




-1 1/4-20 Alan bolt 2 1/4" long
-1 nut and washer for the Alan bolt
- 3/16 Alan wrench
- The "Anvil" is the handle you see. I made it myself with a piece of steel I had laying around. The "Anvil" will not allow the nutsert to "spin" while installing it. I also drilled a 1/4" hole in it just big enough to the allow the Alan bolt to go through it
- 7/16 open-end wrench.




Take the Alan bolt and put the nut on first and then the washer.



Here's a better pic of the "Anvil". I wrapped the handle part with rubber tape and then electrical tape for some cushion for your hand while installing a million nutserts lol.




Here's the tool put together
1.Bolt, 2.nut, 3.washer, 4."anvil",5. nutsert.





Then here it is with the Alan wrench and a piece of rubber hose to make it more comfortable when using this homemade tool.




Then you should hold this tool as of it were a pistol or drill




1.Then your ready to start installing these dreaded nutserts. With everything all together, just insert the nutsert into the 3/8 hole that you just drilled into you jeep while trying not to puke or cry because of all the many large holes you just drilled in your perfectly good jeep.

2. Make sure the nutsert is completely flush up against the body

3. Take the 7/16 wrench and start tightening the nut on the Alan bolt (turning it clockwise) while holding the anvil handle and Alan wrench stationary. The first couple of turns are a little hard but it will get easier. For me it took about 10 to 12 half turns for the nutsert to be fully installed, but that can vary so I don't recommend just counting 10 or 12 turns.
You can also feel when it gets harder to turn the 7/16 wrench as if the nut is completely tighten down, that's when I recommend to stop, if u just keep tightening the wrench it will crush the nutsert so you won't be able to install the bolt.

4. Once you feel that the nut is really tight then loosen the nut a few turns and take the alan wrench to loosen the bolt(turn counter-clock wise)

5. Remove the bolt from the freshly installed nutsert. Thread the nut back up to the start of the threads to allow room for the next nutsert to be threaded onto the alan bolt.

6. Repeat all the steps above until you have successfully installed all the nutserts.

Whew! That was kind of hard making this write-up. This is my first one and I did all of it from my phone. I hope it helps all of you that doesnt want to keep going back to harbor freight to replace the cheap nutsert tool or spending $150+ for a real good tool. I spent only a few bucks for the bolt and nut from my local hardware store but you can go to Lowe's or home depot too. This tool I made has held up great, so far I installed my rocker skins, b-pillar skins and the recent EVO corner armor. If any of you have any questions, please feel free to ask, I love helping people and most of the stuff I put on my jeep or tools to install some parts, I made myself. I consider myself a 27 year Korean MaCGyver Lmao (just kidding)