jayrav

I'll be selling my D44s soon. Offers anyone? ;-)

Piginajeep

they jumped price big time a couple months back..


Ask wayoflife if you need 60's for 37's. He's trashed a couple lockers and axles already... I decided to wait on 37's until I can afford 60's.

Ryanclimbs

I have wheeled my JK pretty hard. Before my Jk I had a TJ with Dynatrac 60's and an XJ with Junkyard Ford D60's.

Here is what I have found. Good parts no matter the axle mean everything. If you have a 4 Dr JK w/ D44/D30 but have swapped out the ujoints, have custom driveshafts, inner and outer axle shafts etc... superior, yukon or some super strong steel quality parts you will be fine with a reasonable tread 37 (MTR, BFG MT, Nitto) at least if you are crawling.

I just wheeled with a guy last week who broke a front axle in his D60 XJ with 39.5 Iroks trying to get up a hill over 10 times that I got up in 2 tries with my 37's. His axles were stock mine are superior alloys.

If you are going to keep the pedal down and catch air D60's are for you. Remember that they are WAAAAAAYYYY heavier though. In some situations that is a hindrance.

I wheel my current Jk with long arms and 37's extremely hard and have never broke more than a ujoint (which are supposed to break!!!) In my estimation as long as you have reasonable tread 37's and the minivan stock engine your fine.

Swap in a HEMI and only D60's will do.

chuck45

I just had to have my rear axles pinion bearings replaced. Since it had to come apart, and since I had broken a rear Superior axle shaft, I had them pull the carrier apart and check on the condition of the e-Locker. There was an inordinate amount of wear on the mating locking plates given the miles on the vehicle.

The factory axles are probably fine on stock vehicles with smaller tires. Weight, big rubber, and even moderately agressive driving push the envelope so much that 60's become necessary - even with stock power.

Stuka

Generally, the only time heavier axles is bad is for high speed desert racing. But for any type of crawling, unsprung weight is a *good* thing. It can add a lot of traction, especially to a tire that is drooping. It can also help flex as it will help push the axle to droop more.

But you are right about superior quality parts. But one of the big advantages of a D60 is the much thicker tubes, and much larger ring and pinion. Lot of people on here break R&P's with 35-37" tires on the stock D30 and D44 axles.

RiSK

my theory is run what you got until it breaks and you find out you need something stronger, then you've got a real need and a more legitimate excuse for buying something so costly, :p

jayrav

True, but I'd rather learn from others past experiences and save myself money and headaches when something breaks. That way I can sell my old parts before they break and cut into the costs of the new parts

For example: a pair of D60s cost around 10Gs shipped. I can get around 3Gs for both my Rubi D44s. In the end my D60s cost me 7Gs approx

The samething goes for my wheels and tires too.

Just play with the numbers and you can get what you want without breaking the bank and without upsetting the wife

RiSK

this is true. butif you've a dana 30 up front and a 44 in the rear your front is more likely to break and then you've still got one to pawn off if the front break, and if neither ever breaks then you didn't spend any money on the 60's in the first place. depends on what sort of wheelin' your doing I suppose, and how much.

Ryanclimbs

Yea I agree Stuka... I am a D60 guy at heart so I can't bash them... but I have wheeled it all (My last three Jeeps had D60's) and the excessive weight does have adverse affects, more often than what you mentioned. Large axles can tend to drag over rutted areas which is the difference between making and not making steep hill climbs. Secondly the heavier you are the faster you sink it mud, in the midwest this is a big deal. Lastly a heavier axle means you can't dance in tight places through articulation the heavy axles slam from one thing to the next and on a Jk the frame twist is really bad with D60's. Just a thought.

I would still hold that a well built D30 is going to hold up if you are smart... but also agree you are on borrowed time!!! As I said earler though... if you built it with quality parts most of these companies will warranty the parts when you break them.

Just a thought!

MBATF

Best way to wheel on 37" with D44 is to keep the OEM axle shafts.

When you beef up a part, you will create a new weak point else where. Now... It is cheaper and easier to replace a broken U joint or axle shafts than broken ring & pinion or a locker on the trail.

But the D60 would still be the way to go if you want a trouble/worry free wheelin trip . But it does take the fun and skill out of the traditional wheelin.