Dana 50... Anybody ever use one?
04-14-2009, 03:11 AM
#11
that axle was a cheep way that ford could put a heavy housing under the 7.3 power stroke. It is kinda like they beefed up a dana 44 housing, but not the diff, u-joints, or axle shafts.
I see what you are saying with swaping wheels though, it would be nice to swap rims from vehicle to vehicle. If you are serious about it, the wheel sensor is gunna be your problem. In the old days when I went to automotive school the wheel sensors were just magnetic counters. If one side was counting less or more then the other, the computer was programed to adjust. In those days it was just simple pulsing in the antilock brakes. These days they actually brake each wheel differently, and even take away power from the engine. I cant imagine that the number of "teeth" on the speed sensor would matter but who knows. Some of those sensors even had a "tooth" missing to establish a zero point in the system. Study up, and see what the difference is in the sensor wheels (I believe were called "tone wheels"). Check Number and size of teeth. Check that all of the spaces between the teeth are the same size and make sure that one of the spaces are not larger than the rest for a zero spot. Also how hard it would be to put the jeep sensor over the ford tone wheel, what kind of clamp did each use.
And if it works for you, you will have a heavy, stout and larger version of a dana 44. Then you will have to put a sterling 10.5" in the rear, throw in some ARB lockers, and get a new set of Ford hub-centering 8 on metric wheels and you can swap between vehicles.
My two cents;
not a bad idea, I have given this some thought in the past, but it might be cheeper to just buy two sets of wheels for each vehicle.
I see what you are saying with swaping wheels though, it would be nice to swap rims from vehicle to vehicle. If you are serious about it, the wheel sensor is gunna be your problem. In the old days when I went to automotive school the wheel sensors were just magnetic counters. If one side was counting less or more then the other, the computer was programed to adjust. In those days it was just simple pulsing in the antilock brakes. These days they actually brake each wheel differently, and even take away power from the engine. I cant imagine that the number of "teeth" on the speed sensor would matter but who knows. Some of those sensors even had a "tooth" missing to establish a zero point in the system. Study up, and see what the difference is in the sensor wheels (I believe were called "tone wheels"). Check Number and size of teeth. Check that all of the spaces between the teeth are the same size and make sure that one of the spaces are not larger than the rest for a zero spot. Also how hard it would be to put the jeep sensor over the ford tone wheel, what kind of clamp did each use.
And if it works for you, you will have a heavy, stout and larger version of a dana 44. Then you will have to put a sterling 10.5" in the rear, throw in some ARB lockers, and get a new set of Ford hub-centering 8 on metric wheels and you can swap between vehicles.
My two cents;
not a bad idea, I have given this some thought in the past, but it might be cheeper to just buy two sets of wheels for each vehicle.
04-14-2009, 12:20 PM
#12
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that axle was a cheep way that ford could put a heavy housing under the 7.3 power stroke. It is kinda like they beefed up a dana 44 housing, but not the diff, u-joints, or axle shafts.
I see what you are saying with swaping wheels though, it would be nice to swap rims from vehicle to vehicle. If you are serious about it, the wheel sensor is gunna be your problem. In the old days when I went to automotive school the wheel sensors were just magnetic counters. If one side was counting less or more then the other, the computer was programed to adjust. In those days it was just simple pulsing in the antilock brakes. These days they actually brake each wheel differently, and even take away power from the engine. I cant imagine that the number of "teeth" on the speed sensor would matter but who knows. Some of those sensors even had a "tooth" missing to establish a zero point in the system. Study up, and see what the difference is in the sensor wheels (I believe were called "tone wheels"). Check Number and size of teeth. Check that all of the spaces between the teeth are the same size and make sure that one of the spaces are not larger than the rest for a zero spot. Also how hard it would be to put the jeep sensor over the ford tone wheel, what kind of clamp did each use.
And if it works for you, you will have a heavy, stout and larger version of a dana 44. Then you will have to put a sterling 10.5" in the rear, throw in some ARB lockers, and get a new set of Ford hub-centering 8 on metric wheels and you can swap between vehicles.
My two cents; not a bad idea, I have given this some thought in the past, but it might be cheeper to just buy two sets of wheels for each vehicle.
I see what you are saying with swaping wheels though, it would be nice to swap rims from vehicle to vehicle. If you are serious about it, the wheel sensor is gunna be your problem. In the old days when I went to automotive school the wheel sensors were just magnetic counters. If one side was counting less or more then the other, the computer was programed to adjust. In those days it was just simple pulsing in the antilock brakes. These days they actually brake each wheel differently, and even take away power from the engine. I cant imagine that the number of "teeth" on the speed sensor would matter but who knows. Some of those sensors even had a "tooth" missing to establish a zero point in the system. Study up, and see what the difference is in the sensor wheels (I believe were called "tone wheels"). Check Number and size of teeth. Check that all of the spaces between the teeth are the same size and make sure that one of the spaces are not larger than the rest for a zero spot. Also how hard it would be to put the jeep sensor over the ford tone wheel, what kind of clamp did each use.
And if it works for you, you will have a heavy, stout and larger version of a dana 44. Then you will have to put a sterling 10.5" in the rear, throw in some ARB lockers, and get a new set of Ford hub-centering 8 on metric wheels and you can swap between vehicles.
My two cents;
not a bad idea, I have given this some thought in the past, but it might be cheeper to just buy two sets of wheels for each vehicle.dj