nice trailer ( love those ) but hard to find a decent one for cheap around here. they have a high price tag . otherwise id have one

 

It's definitely hard to find used one in decent condition at a good price, but this one's new, and not terribly expensive. The tub is a fiberglass kit, you can get them at dinoot.com for about $800, and it's on a Harbor Freight frame that cost less than $300. Here's a shot taken when it was under construction:

 

id have sworn it was a m416 , lol what model frame kit from harbor freight ? did you have to change axle on this to get the wheels to fit ? Id be interested in doing this rather than buy a old one thats harder to work on plus the fiberglass wont rot on me here in nh . whats the flooring made from? is that part of the tub too?

 

It's the HF 1720-lb. capacity trailer frame. It's got a 2000-lb. axle with 5-on-4.5 hubs, which is the same as the TJ and YJ. The frame gets narrowed from 48" to about 42" during assembly to properly fit under the military tub, and at that width there's plenty of room for large tires on Jeep rims.

The floor is not included with the kit, most people use 3/4" plywood although some have used metal, such as diamond-plate aluminum. On mine I used 3/4" plywood, sealed it with epoxy primer and then shot it with Reptor bedliner color-matched to the olive drab paint I used on the tub.



Sure is a lot nicer than trying to restore a rusty, dented original metal trailer .

Here's a link to a Dinoot Trailer Building Overview on the Dinoot web site: https://www.dinoot.com/Building-One.pdf, it should answer most of the initial questions you might have.

 

I did some final fitting of the fenders to the Jeep this morning, now they're on the workbench ready to put a nice finish on them - the finish on the final part out of the mold will only be as good as the finish I put on the masters, so it's worth doing well. They'll get block sanding, and necessary bodywork, high-build primer and more block sanding, and finally a 2k automotive clear coat (don't need a color coat, the clear can go on top of the high build primer).



I'll be doing the finishing work this week, and hopefully by the weekend or the beginning of next week I'll be ready to make the molds.

 

I've finished the bodywork to perfect the flat fender mold masters. The next step is several coats of 2k high-build primer, followed by a final block sanding and then a few coats of 2k clear, then they'll be ready for the molds to be made from them.

 

Beautiful. These will re-use factory inner fender shields ? I like this as it "should" reduce manufacturing and shipping costs
"IF", I know.

 

Yes, the factory inners can be used. The part indicated by the dotted line sticks out under the fender, so that needs to be dealt with, but there are two ways to do it and both are simple mods. I'll do the mods and show how to do it when I install the flat fenders.

 

The "Rubican" 2.5-gallon container that I've been testing for a company has been officially released: http://www.retrofitoffroad.com/produ...froad-rubican/

A Rubican on my JK Overland Rack prototype:

 

This morning I put a final finish on the mold master flat fenders. I was planning to shoot them with clear, but discovered I didn't have enough clear on hand for the job, so I shot them in white epoxy instead. After the epoxy cures a few days I'll make the molds.