Crash's Carnage- The Death of the Tonka?
11-22-2009, 07:31 PM
#332
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I found a diagnostic document for a Jeep GC. If it helps, look at page 705, it has a good diagram of the starting circuit.
I didn't find a JK engine electrical diagnostic PDF on line. Hopefully someone else might know of a site that has one.
h t t p://www.scribd.com/doc/20028428/Jeep-WK-Grand-Cherokee-Section-09-Engine
Page 705 has a lot of info about the P0622 DTC.
I didn't find a JK engine electrical diagnostic PDF on line. Hopefully someone else might know of a site that has one.
h t t p://www.scribd.com/doc/20028428/Jeep-WK-Grand-Cherokee-Section-09-Engine
Page 705 has a lot of info about the P0622 DTC.
Last edited by backwoodjk; 11-22-2009 at 07:34 PM.
11-22-2009, 07:32 PM
#333
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i dunno if its been mentioned or not cause i havent read the full thread but maybe getting a stock wiring harness fromsomeone who has upgraded to a hemi and swapping it all out... as much of a PITA that would be you would be getting rid of anychance of electrical faults? i dont know much about it all just a suggestion... sorry dude..
11-22-2009, 07:41 PM
#334
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Crash, I would have liked to been there today, man, but my Grandson had a baseball tournament. Maybe I'll be free next Saturday, but I hope I'm not needed. 
In the other thread you said that the water got up to the cruise control. You may need to take the steering wheel off and clean up under there. You may have some stuff in the steering column as well. There's probably a lot of connections inside there. I'm keepin all my fingers crossed for you and the Tonka.
In the other thread you said that the water got up to the cruise control. You may need to take the steering wheel off and clean up under there. You may have some stuff in the steering column as well. There's probably a lot of connections inside there. I'm keepin all my fingers crossed for you and the Tonka.
Last edited by LRBolt; 11-23-2009 at 09:27 AM.
11-22-2009, 10:07 PM
#335
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Found key.
Dash lights come on as normal.
Turn key...single click.
Radio power, no sound ( I know it's not important, just being thorough).
A/C is completely dead.
Wipers move at random when off.
Codes are as follows:
P0579
Speed control switch 1 performance
P0585
speed control switch 1/2 correlation
P0622
generator field control circuit/open
no idea where to go from here.
This is not encouraging.
Dash lights come on as normal.
Turn key...single click.
Radio power, no sound ( I know it's not important, just being thorough).
A/C is completely dead.
Wipers move at random when off.
Codes are as follows:
P0579
Speed control switch 1 performance
P0585
speed control switch 1/2 correlation
P0622
generator field control circuit/open
no idea where to go from here.
This is not encouraging.
Are codes somewhat uniform across Chrysler products? I cut and pasted the codes into google and got a ton of hits for everything from Dodge trucks to Grands to Chargers. Maybe some searching around can provide some help about what is throwing the codes and how to fix the issue.
11-23-2009, 12:52 AM
#336
JK Super Freak
just in case, you might need this....
h ttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Jeep-Wrangler-Engine-Computer-ECM-3-8L-AT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a4a3f5d7QQitemZ230 395475415QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories
could be worthwhile gettin the chip in the key and JK programmed again for 30 bucks or whatever it costs to reprogram a key...may be the only issue for not starting at this point...sorry I can't elaborate on the codes, but I am very confident you'll be running again soon
h ttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Jeep-Wrangler-Engine-Computer-ECM-3-8L-AT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a4a3f5d7QQitemZ230 395475415QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories
could be worthwhile gettin the chip in the key and JK programmed again for 30 bucks or whatever it costs to reprogram a key...may be the only issue for not starting at this point...sorry I can't elaborate on the codes, but I am very confident you'll be running again soon
11-23-2009, 02:28 AM
#337
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Found key.
Dash lights come on as normal.
Turn key...single click.
Radio power, no sound ( I know it's not important, just being thorough).
A/C is completely dead.
Wipers move at random when off.
Codes are as follows:
P0579
Speed control switch 1 performance
P0585
speed control switch 1/2 correlation
P0622
generator field control circuit/open
no idea where to go from here.
This is not encouraging.
Dash lights come on as normal.
Turn key...single click.
Radio power, no sound ( I know it's not important, just being thorough).
A/C is completely dead.
Wipers move at random when off.
Codes are as follows:
P0579
Speed control switch 1 performance
P0585
speed control switch 1/2 correlation
P0622
generator field control circuit/open
no idea where to go from here.
This is not encouraging.
Hope you get it running!
11-23-2009, 06:53 AM
#338
JK Freak
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Maybe the starter is junk. . .
I pulled this from a site I googled just for a quick test of the starter. If you do try this, make sure the starter is in a vice and tight. If it isn't secured and you free fire it the thing is going to take off like a helicopter.
Referring to the above diagram, the "big terminal" on the starter solenoid is where the battery + cable goes. There are one or two smaller terminals on the solenoid, one going to the "start" position on the ign switch.
On a bench test, the negative battery jumper cable goes to the vice that is holding the starter by the frame. The Positive goes to the "big terminal" on the solenoid. Jump from the big terminal to one of the smaller ones with a jumper wire or a screwdriver blade to actuate the solenoid. It should click and the starter should whirrrrr. If it does, don't get carried away and let it spin freely for a long time - it's not good to run a starter with no load for extended periods of time, especially an old and tired one.
If it doesn't spin, look for another "big" wire going into the starter. On GMs you can usually see it at the other end of the solenoid - it goes into the body of the starter. I'm not sure about other makes and models. Look around. Carefully touch the + jumper cable to it and the starter should immediately whirrrr and you should get a good sized spark - that is normal - the starter is a heavy current eater.
If you get no whir from that test then the starter motor is fried inside. You can take it apart and see if it is fixable (new brushes, a clean-up of the commutator and possibly new windings, but at that point I would suggest a rebuilt starter/solenoid assy.
If the starter did whir on the last test then you can remove the solenoid and either rebuild it or replace it, the later being a good idea. The new starter will come with a new or rebuilt Bendix drive which is probably next in line for failure.
When going for a new starter make sure to bring the old one along with you. First, you can match it up to make sure the computer picked the right one for your vehicle and second, they charge a "core charge" for the old one - they want it back to be rebuilt and sold again. Just to make sure you got a good one you should bench test the new starter - it wouldn't be the first time a bad rebuilt was shipped.
I pulled this from a site I googled just for a quick test of the starter. If you do try this, make sure the starter is in a vice and tight. If it isn't secured and you free fire it the thing is going to take off like a helicopter.
Referring to the above diagram, the "big terminal" on the starter solenoid is where the battery + cable goes. There are one or two smaller terminals on the solenoid, one going to the "start" position on the ign switch.
On a bench test, the negative battery jumper cable goes to the vice that is holding the starter by the frame. The Positive goes to the "big terminal" on the solenoid. Jump from the big terminal to one of the smaller ones with a jumper wire or a screwdriver blade to actuate the solenoid. It should click and the starter should whirrrrr. If it does, don't get carried away and let it spin freely for a long time - it's not good to run a starter with no load for extended periods of time, especially an old and tired one.
If it doesn't spin, look for another "big" wire going into the starter. On GMs you can usually see it at the other end of the solenoid - it goes into the body of the starter. I'm not sure about other makes and models. Look around. Carefully touch the + jumper cable to it and the starter should immediately whirrrr and you should get a good sized spark - that is normal - the starter is a heavy current eater.
If you get no whir from that test then the starter motor is fried inside. You can take it apart and see if it is fixable (new brushes, a clean-up of the commutator and possibly new windings, but at that point I would suggest a rebuilt starter/solenoid assy.
If the starter did whir on the last test then you can remove the solenoid and either rebuild it or replace it, the later being a good idea. The new starter will come with a new or rebuilt Bendix drive which is probably next in line for failure.
When going for a new starter make sure to bring the old one along with you. First, you can match it up to make sure the computer picked the right one for your vehicle and second, they charge a "core charge" for the old one - they want it back to be rebuilt and sold again. Just to make sure you got a good one you should bench test the new starter - it wouldn't be the first time a bad rebuilt was shipped.
11-23-2009, 07:09 AM
#339
JK Junkie
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The single click you hear is thet starter. Pull the starter out and clean it up completely it probably has a bunch of dried mud in it. Clean all the connections as well. You are close crash!!
11-23-2009, 07:50 AM
#340
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just in case, you might need this....
h ttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Jeep-Wrangler-Engine-Computer-ECM-3-8L-AT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a4a3f5d7QQitemZ230 395475415QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories
could be worthwhile gettin the chip in the key and JK programmed again for 30 bucks or whatever it costs to reprogram a key...may be the only issue for not starting at this point...sorry I can't elaborate on the codes, but I am very confident you'll be running again soon
h ttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-Jeep-Wrangler-Engine-Computer-ECM-3-8L-AT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a4a3f5d7QQitemZ230 395475415QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories
could be worthwhile gettin the chip in the key and JK programmed again for 30 bucks or whatever it costs to reprogram a key...may be the only issue for not starting at this point...sorry I can't elaborate on the codes, but I am very confident you'll be running again soon