Crash's Carnage- The Death of the Tonka?
#291
JK Freak
I hydrolocked my yj one time....We pulled it out of the water drained and replaced all the fluids. Pulled all the plugs and cleaned out the best we could with papertowels. Then left the plugs out and turned the motor over several times to blow the water etc out the plug holes.
Then replaced the plugs and it fired up and blew a couple gallons of water out the tail pipe.
I would also recommend going to COSTCO and buying one of those 50lb bags of rice. As you clean out these electrical parts put them in a ziplock with the rice or dunk large parts directly down in the bag overnight.
Good luck and keep us posted...been away from the computer for a couple months and just read this entire thread...Got faith in you brother!!
Then replaced the plugs and it fired up and blew a couple gallons of water out the tail pipe.
I would also recommend going to COSTCO and buying one of those 50lb bags of rice. As you clean out these electrical parts put them in a ziplock with the rice or dunk large parts directly down in the bag overnight.
Good luck and keep us posted...been away from the computer for a couple months and just read this entire thread...Got faith in you brother!!
#292
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Can't quite fathom that.
thanks man.
the plan already was to drain and refill.
I just know very little about types of oil.
I was looking for weight/ brand suggestions, etc.
Only one. Drain and refill. Since you dont know the internall condition at this time use a high quality break-in oil. It will contain higher phosphourus as well as other metals/lubricants that can give you that little extra edge of protection until you can get it running and feel everything out.
I just know very little about types of oil.
I was looking for weight/ brand suggestions, etc.
Last edited by AlmightyCrash; 11-20-2009 at 05:24 AM.
#293
JK Freak
So you drove out of the puddle under your own power then she died? If so, that certainly sounds like shorted electrical only (hopefully no H2O in the engine).
#294
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Wasn't suggesting either for a name, though I floated instead of sinking. Was just pointing out that Enoch wasn't the only one.
And yes, the problem is electrical.
And yes, the problem is electrical.
#296
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
#299
I can't remember the exact specs, but I know the cold cranking amps and max amps are different for the different optimas. I also seem to remember reading on this forum somewhere that one of the batteries does not last very well if it is routinely run down and then recharged. I'll see if I can find the thread.
Edit: The information below was taken from Optima's product support page (I hope this is ok with the Mods since I'm not posting a link.)
"RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.
Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics
YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.
Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles
BlueTop: The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.
Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery)
Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting
Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts.
If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery."
Last edited by Sharkey; 11-20-2009 at 11:50 AM.
#300
Since you have her guts out, now might be a good time to think about setting yourself up with a tap into one of the useable spots in the fusebox. I think I recall reading on the forum that M9 can be used. Maybe there are others that can be used as well without screwing anything up. Sure would be nice to have a couple of extra hot leads for switches later on down the road (cb; lights; whatever).