mmcan

I was just seeing the add for Off Road Evo's Coil Over system, and was wondering why I would want to add this to my lift? Does it improve performance on/off road, ride quality, clearance?....

Do you have this and can you do some 'splainin to me about it?

Thanks

bodybrdng

Hope this will help
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/off-road-evolution-evo-lever-long-travel-bolt-coilover-system-32362/

Evolution

This is what Andrew our new Product Engineer had to say...

Coilover shocks have various advantages.
Factory shock locations upper and lower on the JK are in a fixed position, which was determined by the factory as an ideal location for a factory vehicle. Due to this there is a limited number of compressed and extended lengths (Travel) of the shock that can be made in the factory envelope. With the addition of a coilover shock/bracketry, the factory envelope is increased allowing for more wheel travel vertically and articulated.

These photos are of our JK with an off the shelf long arm system (FT) with our off the shelf coilover systems front and rear.





Another major advantage of a coilover system is that coilover shocks are rebuildable and re-valve able. This means that one can re-valve the shock to dial in the ride that one is looking for; if one is looking for a softer ride then the shock can be valved and sprung for a softer ride and vice versa. This also means that if you have a shock failure for any reason they can be taken apart and the failed part can be fixed rather than having to replace the entire shock.

Lastly the other major advantage of a coilover system is that the ride height is adjustable through preload/replacement of the coil spring that goes around the shock absorber. Essentially under certain circumstance including long arm kit, aftermarket driveshaft’s… one could have a 0” lift all the way up to a 10” lift with little noticeable changes in the ride.

Clearance under the vehicle is increased only in the rear with our EVO-Lever system. Due to the fact that the shocks in this system mount up under the body and the linkage on the system does not extend past the tube of the axle, there is no need for the factory lower shock location on the axle any longer. This means that you can cut the bracket off just past your lower link mount gaining almost 3” in the rear on both sides.

Most of all, they look sick!!!!

Andrew Perle
Product Engineer
Off Road Evolution MFG

mmcan

So I already have the FT 4"LA kit.

Your website quotes a price way lower than what the threads have discussed ($3500 for the rear alone?) What is the additional charge to install this on my JK?

I don't know if I need this, but it does look very sick.

And how is the road performance changed by your system? I love the ride as it is and am hesitant to change it at this point.

Evolution

The price that is not included on our website, is the price of the coil overs and install labor. We will be updating the site to show the shock manufactures we have worked with to get the proper valving for our system. The coil overs run approximately $500 a shock including spring/springs and coilover hardware.
Labor to install the kit should be around 5 hours from any shop or you could do it yourself.

This system is great for the person that really wants to improve performance with big wheel travel and to customize the ride to their liking and driving styles. You will not get this kind of wheel travel/articulation travel with anyones off the shelf kit, period.

If your asking if the ride is improved with our system over an aftermarket kit, Yes. We have worked extensively with various shock manufactures to dial in the ride we feel appropriate, we offer 3 different ride setups for both the front and rear coilovers, rockcrawler, trail/street and baja (soon to be on the site).

Thanks for the interest,
Mel Wade...

LoPo

Excellent info, I've been wondering the same myself.

So that's $2,000 in coilovers + ~5 hours of install labor? That's it? Would that be the same coilovers that are pictured?

It would make sense to do this during your lift kit installation.

How does your design compare to Rock Krawler's coilover kit LA kit?

Evolution

Yes it makes a lot of sence to order your lift kits with out springs and shocks
and install evo lever systems at the same time, but can be added at any time.

$2000 would be for complete coil overs at all 4 corners of your JK .

I have not personaly install any other coil over kits, I am sure thay make a great kit.

mmcan

Thank you for the very clear and concise info!

DO you have any more video of this in action? Maybe with some up close commentary on what the parts of the system actually do and how they do it?

Thank you again.

jeeperjkj

Ok, I'm gonna ask a stupid question.

If I'm ordering a lift kit w/o springs, then would it matter how many inches of lift the kit is advertised?

i.e. Brand X has kits for 3" or 4.5". Would it really matter which kit I bought if I'm not ordering springs/shocks?

and...

Would I just tell you (Evolution OR) how much lift I needed?

I've read somewhere that your coilovers are adjustable (I think) to fit between 35"-42" tires. Does this mean I'd only have to buy the coilovers once and then keep adjusting them all the way up to 42" or would I have to buy new coilovers when going from, say, 35" up to 37" and then up to 40", etc.?

NE Wrangling

I'm sure EVO will chime in on this but Coilover shocks I beleive have to be adjustable and they are selling the capability and all the bracketry. You need to buy the coilover sping/shock. I beleive they are using King Coilovers in this photo or Fox.

Also when you change from 3 to 4.5" you need to consider the geometry issues with driveline, Pinion angles and Trackbar adjustment. The Caster will also change to a minus degree at 4.5" lift on my 4 door. You will need to have adjustable arms in the kit you purchase. For example with a BB 2.5" my caster went from +4degrees to only +2.5degrees, steering feels occassionally flighty. If I went to 3.5" lift I would be around +1degree which will cause very flighty steering. I would need to dial the caster back to +4 degree to get the caster correct but then I'm getting close to border line on the pinion angle and would need to consider new drive shafts.

Hope this makes sense to you...