FalconKR5

With the help of Ryan (Imposter), I recently installed the Clayton 4.5 Premium lift kit. I chose this kit out of the many options available due to its attractive price ($1,830 at Rebel Offroad at the time of ordering) while including all 8 (adjustable) control arms, a front adjustable track bar, brake lines (felt like a bonus), and a super-beefy rear trackbar axle-side relocation bracket (bolts around the axle tube and locates off the stock mount). In addition I wanted a kit that was both complete and bolt-in in case I ever decided to return to stock (to sell).

Packaging was great, individual pieces were wrapped to prevent damaging each other in transit. All pieces were received with coating intact and no apparent damage. The lower control arms are very beefy and I would not expect bending or failure. So while they have a lifetime warranty, I doubt it will be needed.

Install went smoothly, we did the rear first and then moved to the front. The instructions were for the most part easy to follow. However, I did not find recommendations for final caster/pinion angle adjustments (to set CA length or locate under springs), nor final track bar measurement (or a method to find it). In the end we measured from wheel hub to flare to determine if the axle was centered on the ground (initial given trackbar length was close enough). Setting the driveline angles was a little more frustrating as there is a lot of discussion online on what to run. In the end for the front I kept the initial settings Clayton provides (and they do call it that - initial) and found caster was ~3.2deg on a alignment rack. To maintain a decent pinion angle, I plan to keep this. For the rear we basically eyeballed it, splitting the angle between the two rzeppa CV joints of the stock driveshaft (this meant tipping the pinion up a bit).

While Clayton states on their web-site that a front driveshaft is needed only when equipped with an automatic, I found it is basically a requirement with a manual long-term as even when street driven only I found the t-case side rzeppa CV joint was spitting grease out after just 200 miles after install. The actual instructions are more conservative, stating that a front driveshaft may be needed for either 2 or 4dr models (not specifying transmission type). I would plan on replacing the front driveshaft with this kit; perhaps you can get away without on the 3.5" version.

I found the ride after to be very similar to stock, although I should note that I did not use Bilstein shocks as Clayton recommends but instead got the new monotube Rancho 7000MT's. I honestly don't know how much of the ride is due to the coils and how much to the shocks, but I am overall pleased with this combination. To me it feels near the stock Rubicon feel in harshness. Another note regarding the shocks (I do not know if this is an issue with the Bilstein's), but they do allow the front axle to droop so far down that the stock driveshaft slip boot is solidly into the heat shield for the exhaust, yet another reason the driveshaft will need to be upgraded.

Running the Clayton recommended tire size (37x12.5") and wheel backspacing (4.5") the tires rub the flares during articulation in multiple spots. I personally prefer the look of the stock full flares with the protection of inner liners and so this is a little troubling. I plan to contact Adam @ Clayton and ask about what they have found (their web-site shows a red JK with full flares and this kit flexing). One short wheeling trip and the tires definitely make contact in both the front and rear.

Overall I am happy with this kit. It was complete, and it is very beefy. Any questions you have/pics you would like, please ask.


Kevin

Shortly after install:








No pics fully flexed, but here is an idea of what it can do:








As mentioned, with the front axle at full droop the slip boot makes contact with the exhaust heat shield due to the amount of droop the shocks (which are not the ones Clayton recommends) allow. While you can not see it in the photo, grease is squirting up around the CV joint in the background, even when only street driven. This has been fixed with an aftermarket driveshaft.


Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated with Clayton Offroad Manufacturing (err... other than being a customer), opinions expressed here are my own, and your experience may vary.

Clayton Off Road Mfg.

Thanks for posting some pictures and information about your install.

The initial measurements are there to get you in the ball park so you can get everything installed under its own weight and then go back and make necessary adjustments. We provide the front lower, front upper, rear lower and trackbar lengths. These can and will vary depending on how much weight you have added to your Jeep. These measurements will get you close, and then we provide this final adjustment proceedure.
Final Adjustments
1. Make sure all springs are properly seated and lower vehicle onto its own weight.
2. Front trackbar alignment and caster angle procedure.
a. Make sure steering wheel is unlocked.
b. Remove trackbar at frame end.
c. Use bottle jack to hold axle from twisting forward or backwards and remove both upper arms at the axle end.
d. Use bottle jack to set 4.5-5 degrees of caster. (DO NOT install arms yet)
e. Set vehicle track.
f. Once track is set, double check caster angle and install both upper arms at the same time. Meaning do NOT install
one upper arm, remove the jack and then install the other. This will cause unequal load on one arm, and cause the
bushings to wear out faster. Upper arms do NOT have to be the same length.
3. Rear pinion angle procedure.
a. Put jack under rear pinion.
b. Remove both upper arms at axle end.
c. Set pinion angle.
d. Install both upper arms at the same time for the same reason as the front uppers. Upper arms do NOT have to be the
same length.
4. Go through the entire Jeep and tighten all suspension bolts and any other items you may have unbolted or loosened.
5. Tighten all suspension jam nuts. Lowers use a 46 mm wrench. Uppers use a 1 7/16 wrench.
6. Properly bleed brakelines and check for any leaks and a firm pedal.
7. Check tire clearance on rear body panel. Depending on tire size, lift height, rear arm length you may need to trim this lower
piece accordingly. See Photo # 8.
8. We recommend doing a test drive with the ESP manually disengaged. We highly recommend this system be updated to
properly function with you new lift height and larger tires. A proper alignment is a critical part to having the ESP function
properly.

We just added this digit angle finder to our online store. We find them helpful in setting these angles.

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/372
And after that for best results a qualified alignment shop.
As for the driveshafts, yes a front driveshaft is recommended. However since it will not rub on the side of the transmission on a manual model it is not crucial to do it right away. Yes that CV boot is over worked on a lifted JK, but we have not found that it will cause immediate issues. We ran our stock front driveshaft for about 2 years even with it being an auto. When we upgraded to the Tom Woods shaft we did notice that the CV boot was ripped, but it did not cause us any problems during that time.

Many customers email or call me to ask about this, and then I go into all the details. It usually comes down to the customer and another $450 dollars. But yes I would agree that on a lifted JK a front driveshaft upgrade will need to be done sooner or later.

As far as the rubbing, this comes down to actual tire size, backspacing, shock lengths and bumpstops. Most customers want maxium flex with minimum lift.

Here is a review on our premium 3.5" kit, and the installers actually chose to run 37s with our 3.5" and then comment how nicely it fits.

http://www.*************/jeep/tech/c...kit-53325.html

Well I hope I answered all your questions. I really do appreciate your feedback.

Adam
Clayton Off Road Inc.

Sinkic

this is the kit i am saving for now for my unlimited. I plan
on running flat fenders so i'm hoping that will elimate all of
the rubbing issues. As for the drivershaft kind of a bummer
but i was going into it with the thought of i would have to
change it sooner or later, i guess i'll have to do it soon
rather then later lol
but glad to hear the kit is as beefy as it looks and the
brackets r to!

thanks for the write up!

Sinkic

FalconKR5

Thank you for the solid product.

About 2.5 months to fine tune everything and then really test it at EJS. More pics will have to follow...

FalconKR5

To be fair, its not a Clayton design issue, if you lift 4.5", it will affect your driveline angles the about the same way no matter what - apologies to Clayton if I did not make that clear in my first post. Most likely I could have run the stock driveshaft for awhile, but with such a high angle I was afraid it might bind (as the rzeppa joint rotates) and possibly cause damage to the t-case.

And as far as rubbing, I have no doubt flat flares will eliminate this (probably could actually run the 3.5" lift).