JK07

Just finished the dana 60 install. the front has new full floators a bit bigger brake calipers in the front and rear the same stock brake calipers

. after bleeding the brakes several times there is still air in the system. have been told that i have to take the jeep to dealer to connect to computer which will run pumps in the ABS module to extract the air out?

the pedal just goes all the way down. I have to pump the pedal few times to stop the vehicle.

any views on this new issue????????

scotlandjk

hey man im not the person to ask about brakes but your rig sounds pretty nice. any pics of it? i have a rhd and would love to see a modded one with dana60's!

sn4cktime

If you've done the bleeding a few times now and are still getting air, the only thing I can think of is that there's a tiny hole, or leak somewhere. Maybe a piece of crud on a seal or fitting, maybe with enough gap to suck air in, but not push noticeable fluid out. I just can't see it being bubbles still in the lines if you've cycled enough fluid through - assuming you've done so. The pressure should push everything through the reservoir....

Never heard about a dealer being able to cycle the fluid in such a manner, but assuming it isn't a leak of some-sort maybe it's worth looking into.

I'm sure someone who's done more than 10-ish sets of brakes will chime in with some advice here.

JK07

All the brake lines are brand new crown steel extended ones. First we tried bleeding the brakes using WOL write up and an hour no luck i took the rig to a brake specialist they tried their best still bubbles coming out from the front left side

called the dealer and they said yes they do connect to computer and run the ABS module pumps inside to extract the air out.

I think when we were bleeding the brakes the brake resivoir got empty not sure complety dired but empty.

also did google search and found this

ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.

Worthless

I've ran into this problem with several Dana axles and it was a odd one at that. I was having the exact same problems and it ended up being that the calipers were holding air. I pulled the calipers off and the brake pads. I then put a 2x4 and a piece of plate where the pads would go and pumped the brakes up til the piston was at its max travel without fear of it coming out. Pull the wood and metal out, grab a big pair of pliers or a caliper compressor, crack the bleeders open and squeeze the sh*t out of them and check for air. Sounds odd and you would think that a vacuum bleeder and manually bleeding the brake would get the air out but it wouldn't. This may not be your problem but its something I would definitely try.
ABS modulators usually hold fluid in all there little nooks and crannies so that probably(but could be)isn't the problem. You usually only need that when you replace that component. If all of the fluid drained out of the master cylinder you may want to bench bleed it to insure there is no air in there also.
Hope this helps!
Alex

JK07

Thanks Alex any info at this stage is helpful. I am taking it to dealer tomorrow to deal it with. and will certainly tell them to do the above.

txjeeplover

I once ran into a similar issue with my 94 ZJ. I let fluid level drop during a bleeding and the master cylinder and ABS module took on air. I was able to get a lot of air out by refilling, monitoring the level, and bleeding all 4 wheels; but the pedal still felt off. Took it to the local Brake Check and for $90 they flushed and refilled the brake system. Felt good as the day I bought it after that. BTW as you may or may not know, I wouldn't recommend driving with air in the line. You never can tell when the brake will or won't catch fully. You could seriously hurt yourself or others.

JK07

Monday jeep assit will pick her up from a so called brake specialist and will take it my my local dealer. No way I am gona drive that thing with faulty brakes. Even the hand brakes are not connected yet.

The only thing I am afraid of that dealer might refuse to work on it bec it is not stock anymore.

The front and rear diff are solid 60. The rear has stock brake calipers but the front has new upgraded bigger brake calipers.

I am kind of stuck over here at the moment and just praying that dealer should look into it and fix what ever is needed. I am not worry about the warranty. just need the bloody thing fixed.

also i am not sure if the diff guy has installed it properly. bec the brake specialist shop just said they can see the front calipers moving when applied the pressure. they are full floators...

Stuka

Just curious, did you start it up and push the brakes a few times between brake bleeding? That will turn the ABS on, and should let them run and get any air that they might have out.

And were you uding a brake bleeding tool, or were you doing the old 'open valve, push the pedal down, hold, close valve, lift, rinse, repeat" method?

BTW: Worthless, Dana corp doesnt make the brakes. For many years (like 40), they were GM brakes. Now they are chrysler brakes. But dana didn't design them.

JK07

First 2 hour attempt was tradional bleeding open and close break nipples no luck

Second attempt after finding out that the guy installed the front callipers wrong side he then swapped them left to right and started bleeding the brakes again by opening and closing the nipples while pressing the brake pedal

Then found out there was a minor leak between hard brake line joint where the new brake lines connect tighten the bolts then started again


No luck

then took it to brake specialist who started bleeding the brakes by engine running but informed me no luck brake are still not working


now taking it to dealer so they can bleed master cylinder, ABS module through computer etc etc