woffles

I you needed two washers per bolt there's a good chance you put them in wrong. The bolt goes in from the bottom with one washer and a lock washer goes over the top with the lock nut. Where did you need a second washer?

l2chil

Woffles
Thats correct I inserted the door surround bolt in thru the top. I understand what your saying and I thought about having the nut and the threaded part sticking up into the fabric top but that made no sense at all.
Also the diagram in step one clearly shows the screwand washer going in thru the top and then shows the lock or star washer and nut on the bottom.
Following the instruction the hole is to big for the smaller lock washer so I added another washer. Maybe the hole in the 08 roll bar is bigger??

Kahuna Mas

Regarding the back holes on the rollbar. I too ran into the same problem with the underside hole being too big. However I found a good solution:

pickup 4 neoprene fender washers and a couple of wingnuts that fit the supplied bolt. 2 washers on each side plus the wingnut. This not only solved my problem soundly but I liked it so much I went ahead and put wingnuts on the front mounts as well. This makes it much easier when trying to get the hardware off.

l2chil

Kahuna,
Great idea. Im off to the harware store in the morning for some wingnuts.
How much wind noise are you getting from the front header corners.
I decided to fold the front portion back and drive around with it open.
Kinda liked it so I will leave it like that for a while.

woffles

The instructions I got with my top show the nut coming in from the bottom. I started to do it your way and got out a magnifying lens to verify it and saw that they said to put it in from the bottom. There are no threads from the screw sticking up so nothing sharp to cut into the top if it did hit. There is a little space between it so I'm not worried. If it becomes an issue I'm sure Bestop will fix it under warranty.

On my drivers side the snaps to hold it rolled back were on the same side. I wrote them when I saw it and they said to take it back to where I bought it and have it replaced under warranty. After looking at it I can just twist the strap to connect the snaps. I just can't see returning it for something so simple.

Drove for about an hour in good rain today and also had it sitting out in the rain for another couple of hours and not a drop inside of it. Course this is a two door without that extra seam so YMMV.

My dog approves of this so far. He likes riding with the front rolled back. Sticks his nose as high as he can to sniff out the top.

Figured out an easy way to remove and replace the rear window in the top J channel. Just sit inside the jeep facing backwards and slide it out while holding one end and curve it while sliding. Your hand will keep it from hitting the side window. Comes right out no issues. It will bend just enough to do this. Replace it the same way. Just hold onto both ends and slide it right back in keeping it bent just enough to clear the side window.

Haven't tried taking it back off and folding it up yet. I need to find something to store it in so it doesn't get scratched up when it is off. Wondering if the best thing is to fold it flat and them roll it up from one end and store it that way? Don't want to crease the windows.

So far I'm really liking this top.

LedZepp877

so can anyone tell me who has the new version of the trektop for sale or is it on back order every where?

Slacker

I just ordered mine Tuesday and got it Friday from JcWhitney. And it has the tail gate bar and front strap. Paid $675 shipped for 2dr trektop and safari top. The header bar that came with the trektop works great with the safari top.

Now I have a question. The top is real quiet when windows are up, but with the windows down the front strap flaps against the top. Is there way to adjust it so this doesn't happen?

Kahuna Mas

Honestly since I've had it, I only rolled the top forward once and that was during the install to make sure all is well. The top has been rolled back ever since.

On a side note, I found a good way to roll the back window up (given there are no snap ties for this):

Unzip the back window most of the way and then take the tailgate bar and tuck it underneath the rolled up top piece on top of the rollbar. I actually unsnapped the top piece to do this but you get my drift...

So far I've only driven it about 80 miles (at 50 mph) this way but no issues with it falling back. The rolled up top is plenty weight to hold that back window up.

l2chil

I have had this top for 4 days now and I am really starting to like it. I did fix the wind noise that was coming from the front corners. A small piece of weather stripping solved that issue. After that I rolled it back uncovering the driver and passenger area. I am really liking this, perfect for summer.
I Drove to work this morning around 70 mph with no problems. I came home from work, closed the top. You have to loosen the back area in order to get the front to clamp down and seal. Its not that much of a problem. I then held the hose to it in order to check for leaks. No leaks
It looks great and so far it functions as advertised.
Kahuna, thanks for the rear window idea.
I thought all this talk needed some pictures.

EATJEEP

OK, JK Unlimited Top #2 came from JC Whitney to replace first one with a pinhole in the left upper corner of the rear window. New top has same exact pinhole but I am going to call Bestop on this one. JCW did actually send out a new version of the top after telling me they were sending the old version. The header bar is about a 1/2" shorter in width, the top material came with foam seals glued onto the header material and on the front door flap, the new version has a built in gutter above the side windows to divert the rain, the seam is now over the front seats instead of the sound bar so all future puddles will be delivered to my backside instead of the rear footwell, they eliminated the rear tensioning straps that hooked to the back rollbar tubing (I may keep those around just in case). In general, the top seems to fit a lot tighter than the old velcro version. I'm hoping the sun lets me connect the door surrounds on a little better. The rear window bar was a bitch to connect just due to tension. When you shut the doors you can tell how much tighter this fits (air resistance). I will update after a few days of weather. I used the scotchguard spray liberally on the inside seam on the last top and it did help. I will probably do the same with this one. Bestop has been very helpful so far. I just can't imagine how all these issues got past them in the first place. I guess SEMA really is form over function. I'll shut up now.