ronnie187

How did you do thet stubby? Ive got the same bumper on my 12 and would like to do this

YellowToy

With skills like that, I don't think it even counts as home made!

Dagley918

Lots of threads on here about doing it a bunch of different ways. I chopped one side with my dremel. Then made a template out if card stock and used a Rubbermaid tub to donate some plastic and measured and repeated for the other side. I used a soldering iron to melt the pieces back together. Then used my dremel again to smooth it out and bedlined. Search for stubby using factory bumper. Cheers

sooley6

Awesome job. I'm attempting to do a similar setup.

07XMan2Door

Loys of great stuff in this thread. Some smart fellars on here. I'll try to add a bit too.

Built my own bumpers, here is a link to the build thread...


https://www.jk-forum.com/jk-fabricat...r-pics-230550/







I also fabbed up a slider/spare tire support. The large d ring protects the spare. There is also an adjustable bolt with a huge washer welded on top to offer support to the tire on the end gate. The ratchet strap is used while offroading. This keeps the tire from bouncing upwards when I hit bumps.

pontiac31

Stick on mirrors for doors off driving. Small enough to spin around when not in use.

dman1116

Love that bumper, nice and simple! Care to share build info??

2xplore

I'm going to move towards equipping my JK for expeditions. There won't be anyting serious to start but my first mod is this rear storage/ bunk area. I built it with cardboard for a template then found a local metal working shop to have it built. I was able to do it with one sheet of 4x8 of aluminum, which was the most expensive part of the project. I used 5052 series, 3/16. From the research I did that is one of the most rigid series that you can still bend at 90 degrees without it cracking.

I built it in two sections. The rear will stay in place virtually all the time, although I bolted it down using the existing tie down bolts near the front of that box section and on the side. The front piece is bolted to the rear and can be removed easily when I want to reinstall the rear seat. I am on an extended road trip now and wanted the extra space.

As you can see from the photos I left a few inches on the left side of the rear piece so I could have my bike inside and still be able to sleep on the rack. It's 37" wide and 5' long. When I want to lay out I move the front seats all the way forward, tilt the backs forward and have about 76" from the back glass to the rear of the front seats. That fits my 72" frame fine but I also have extra room as I lay in the middle and my feet basically go between the front seats. Yes, there is about a foot of space between the front of the rack and the back of the seats when they are forward, but I roll out a sleeping pad and it is supported on the center console which fits right up to the rack. Works out well.

I wrapped it all with carpet and glued it in place.

Overall I am happy with how it turned out. Total cost at the metal shop including the aluminum was $481.00. Another few dollars for carpeting and glue and I put the project costs at about $500.00.

dman1116

bump for some more great ideas!

AhMyGawd

Wow - I'm so glad someone bumped this thread or i would have never found it...

This thread gives life and new, never cosidered uses for doubled sided tape, Velcro, wood screws, pop rivets and even more brilliant -PVC Pipe!!!! I never would have thunk it...

I'm off to the hardware store for some PVC so I can build me a Sport Cage!!! Yee Haw!!!

Pic's and action photo's to follow...