BlueBeast

Looking for pics of this and how it's performing.

karls

It's possible but be prepared to put some bumpstop in there if you wheel it. If you just cruise around town then you'll be fine. Browse the other "35's, no lift" threads and see what you can find.

Napalm

Here's some.

BlueBeast

Thanks guys. This is helpful.

icrashbikes

A random sampling of pictures, should give you a good idea. Most of these are no lift, 35" KM2s in 17's (Level 8 Trackers with 4.5" backspacing). The last pics are Duratracs that I switched to for this ridiculous winter. I did trim the Rubicon rails and pinch seam (required) and the fenders are cut. On the road it's fine, but I can stuff the tires till they rub a LOT, so bumpstops (or a lift) are on my list.

jeepney425

I want to try this myself. But, what about re gearing? How much will it cost to this extra stuff?

SOCAL-JK

Here's mine with 35's, no lift and chopped flares

Nico4x4

Everyday mall crawling she will do perfectly fine, except when i have two big guys in the back, she'll rub a little in the back. Off-roading is a whole other world! She'll rub a lot in the rear once i get the tires to start stuffing themselves. In the front it'll be perfectly fine if you don't disconnect the sway bar, but once you do, she'll rub! The only way you could prevent this, like others have said, would be with bump stops, but that would be pretty useless because it will limit your suspension travel!

jeep_n_co

I am running 35's with no lift and no bump-stop (which would severely limit suspension up travel). But it's not easy to do "right". You want easy and right? Go 2.5" lift.

The base problem is that at full stuff the rear wheels are not centered in the wheel well. Instead, the wheel is visually centered in the wheel well at stock static height. Additionally, the MT/Rs are known for being exactly 35".

Because of the un-centered axle, the tire gets into un-trimmable areas of the inner fender well.

By stretching the control arms one inch, the rear wheel is centered in the wheel well at full compression. You still will need to trim the pinch seam and the Rubi rails, but that is easy and minor work.

I found myself having to to a lot of reconfiguring when stretching the wheelbase.

In order to move the axle back 1", you need to relocate (cut off and re-weld) the frame mount of the rear track bar

In order to relocate the track bar, you need to relocate the rear sway bar (MetalCloak sells adapters that work for this).

In order to relocate the rear sway bar, you should really move the rear muffler.

In order to put the muffler in that driver's side tunnel, you need to relocate the evap canister.

That doesn't even address the driveshaft, which I know on mine needs to be replaced... does it need it because of the stretch, or the mileage (90k), or just because the stock one is a POS, I just don't know for sure. It also doesn't address the tailgate rattle you will end up with 35" tire, but you would encounter that regardless (and these days the Teraflex looks like the quickest/easiest fix).

It's all stuff that I wanted to do anyway, but it took some time to get it all sorted and honestly it would have just been "easier" to throw some kinda lift on there.

Sacrifice one inch in tire size by sticking to a 305/70/17 and you skip all these problems... you just need a fender trim, air-dam trim and 1.5" spacers (if sticking to stock wheel backspacing). That size is the best for fender trim and no lift with minimal hassle.

(Most of the above was copy pasta from other threads I have posted in about the subject, and from other forums no less)

And, since everyone likes pics...







p.s. that last pic I have Rubi 18/59 springs in with Rubi shocks... a recent add. But it's about my favorite pic of my Jeep (and my dog).

karls

Jeep_n_co: I really like your fender trim and typically I'm not fond of stock fenders trimmed or aftermarkets with the dovetail to them.