Another transfer case explosion/fire
#81
JK Super Freak
Well now you guys have gotten me worried. I've been searching for the mods that I plan on getting and getting the ones that I want as I can afford them. Unfortunately with a few household issues that I've had to deal with there has been a slight pause in the "getting" of the mods that I've decided upon. That being said I have gotten a 3.5" RC lift. Here is a link to the lift. My DS and all other drive shaft components are stock. After reading this and several other reports of the transfer case exploding I have a few questions: I plan on getting these wheels and mounting these tires on them within the next month or so. A few months down the road I plan on getting 5.13 gears to compensate for the larger tires. If I go with my current selection, in the order that I have in mind, it looks like I will be a prime candidate for this catastrophe. Would you guys recommend getting a DS before I get anything else? Or would it be okay to get the wheel/tire combo I selected and get a DS before regearing? Or would it be okay to get everything and run stock DS until I am ready to upgrade? This is my DD, but I do offroad on the occasion.
#83
Just had front and rear 1310 shafts installed today on my 2010 jk 4dr. They have single joints at the ends and double at the transfer case. Front shaft has stock flange at the axle and yoke at transfer case. The rear shaft has yokes at both ends. I have a 4in. Teraflex lift with all (8) short flex arms, 37 in. tires and stock 4.10 gearing. I had the alignment done just a couple days ago. I was told that the caster is at 6.5 degrees which I thought was good from what I've read here on the forum. Drove it on the freeway and have a pretty good amount of vibration at 60-65 mph. Keep in mind I have not corrected the speedo yet so I think the speed that this is happening at is more like 65-70 mph. I think I need to lower the caster to 3-4 degrees and see if that helps. The vibes could be from the rear axle also. I have the angle of the pinion so that it is as close to the same angle of the shaft, which I set when I had the stock shaft installed. What else can I do?
#85
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Originally Posted by thombull
Just had front and rear 1310 shafts installed today on my 2010 jk 4dr. They have single joints at the ends and double at the transfer case. Front shaft has stock flange at the axle and yoke at transfer case. The rear shaft has yokes at both ends. I have a 4in. Teraflex lift with all (8) short flex arms, 37 in. tires and stock 4.10 gearing. I had the alignment done just a couple days ago. I was told that the caster is at 6.5 degrees which I thought was good from what I've read here on the forum. Drove it on the freeway and have a pretty good amount of vibration at 60-65 mph. Keep in mind I have not corrected the speedo yet so I think the speed that this is happening at is more like 65-70 mph. I think I need to lower the caster to 3-4 degrees and see if that helps. The vibes could be from the rear axle also. I have the angle of the pinion so that it is as close to the same angle of the shaft, which I set when I had the stock shaft installed. What else can I do?
#86
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Just had front and rear 1310 shafts installed today on my 2010 jk 4dr. They have single joints at the ends and double at the transfer case. Front shaft has stock flange at the axle and yoke at transfer case. The rear shaft has yokes at both ends. I have a 4in. Teraflex lift with all (8) short flex arms, 37 in. tires and stock 4.10 gearing. I had the alignment done just a couple days ago. I was told that the caster is at 6.5 degrees which I thought was good from what I've read here on the forum. Drove it on the freeway and have a pretty good amount of vibration at 60-65 mph. Keep in mind I have not corrected the speedo yet so I think the speed that this is happening at is more like 65-70 mph. I think I need to lower the caster to 3-4 degrees and see if that helps. The vibes could be from the rear axle also. I have the angle of the pinion so that it is as close to the same angle of the shaft, which I set when I had the stock shaft installed. What else can I do?
I have a similar problem as well. I have a 4" long arm lift, all adjustable CA's, 1310 double cardan drive shafts. Before I changed the 4.10 gears to 5.13's, I had the vibration between 65 and 70 mph. Now with the 5.13 gears, the vibration is between 50-60. I have adjusted the front pinion angle to darn near 0 and I still have the same problem. The rear pinion angle is at 0 as well. The vibration is less noticeable with the front DS removed. To describe the vibration it is more something you can hear rather than feel. I can feel a little vib in the gas pedal, floor board e-brake lever and steering wheel. It's more like a tight humming sound. It's not a tire tread or balance type of hum, but rather a harmonic type of hum. Is this what you are experiencing?
The vibration doesn't change no matter where I set the caster. It could be an out of balance DS. Also, it could be a characteristic of having a lift, doubal cardan drive shafts, bigger tires and the Rubicon t-case. This all adds up to more load on the drive line which translates into a vibration. If you feel the vibration through the seat, this can't be good in the long run.
In any event, you need to address the pinion angle first, then evaluate the vibration from there. Lets stay in touch on this!
Tony
Last edited by TenForward; 04-21-2011 at 05:16 PM.
#88
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Positive caster is where the top ball joint is angled more towards the rear of the vehicle than the lower ball joint.
Last edited by TenForward; 04-21-2011 at 03:58 PM.
#89
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Originally Posted by tinglima
Basically yes, but it's hard to tell by eye balling it. An angle finder will help you get the caster close, but you should have a computerized alignment performed to make sure it's set correctly.
Positive caster is where the top ball joint is angled more towards the rear of the vehicle.