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AEV Corners and License Relocation

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Old 10-07-2010 | 12:25 AM
  #1  
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From: Kirkland, WA
Default AEV Corners and License Relocation

After smashing my bumper into a concrete pole I realized it would be a great excuse to finally get the AEV corners I've been wanting (the bumper was 1/4" away from being inside the tub). My lucky concrete encounter also shattered my license plate holder into a hundred plastic shards- fixed with Rock Hard 4x4 spare tire bracket and ORO license plate light. I would've done a write-up but the AEV instructions couldn't be any more clear and helpful. I can't say the same for ORO's lighting instructions but I spliced the passenger side brake light harness the following way: Black ORO to Black Brake, Green ORO to White w/yellow Brake, Red ORO to White w/purple Brake. Out of all the slightly unnecessary mods I've purchased the quality of AEV and the relo-kit couldn't have been better. Also thanks to David at Northridge for getting my order taken care of.

Pictures:



Old 10-07-2010 | 04:19 AM
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looks good ... i like them.. the corners look well protected now
Old 10-07-2010 | 06:46 AM
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The corners and the relo look great! I have to ask, though, what kinda of radio are you running and is your SWR okay? That exposed coil antenna well below the roof line plus the bracket attached to the painted corner looks like trouble to me.
Old 10-07-2010 | 01:33 PM
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Im running a cobra 29 with browning br-28 antenna. There's still about 20" of whip above the roof. My swr is ~1.2 unless i turn the rf gain over 1/4. Ill receive and send frm a few hundred yards which is all i really need. The wilson base works great as a ground so far.

Last edited by runit3; 10-07-2010 at 06:37 PM.
Old 10-07-2010 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by runit3
Im running a cobra 29 with browning br-28 antenna. There's still about 20" of whip above the roof. My swr is ~1.2 unless i turn the rf gain over 1/4. Ill receive and send frm a few hundred yards which is all i really need. The wilson base works great as a ground so far.
If it works for you, noone can argue!
Old 10-07-2010 | 07:18 PM
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Looks good How had was the install?
Old 10-08-2010 | 12:37 PM
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The hardest part of the install was taking the time to tap out the holes and pre-drill. I started with a 11/64ths carbide bit, stepped it up to a 3/8ths, and then finished with the 25/64ths. Finding a 25/64ths carbide bit was IMPOSSIBLE. I had to get a standard black oxide bit which worked but wasn't ideal. STEP ALL THE HOLES! i tried to skip out the 3/8ths on 2 of them and the 25/64ths warped the s*** out of the side sheet steel. The riv-nuts are amazing, way better than rivets could have done.

The ORO light kit is great quality but the wiring is non-vehicle specific. If you follow their instructions to wire into the loom in the bottom tub-I'm assuming they meant the drivers side stock illumination wire and brake light- the wiring won't reach. Easiest spot is passenger side brake light which has all the wires you need. You can run the wire loom through the fabric retainer on the tailgate and into the body tub plug right behind the passenger side rear roll cage pillar.

Also if you have the MOPAR gas tank cover it takes some fanagling to get the corner in the right spot. I ended up taking off the first piece of the cover (flip lid and allen screws) slaming the corner over the lip of the cover base. I had a friend hold it in place while I screwed the corner into the riv-nuts, then put the flip lid and allen screws in. One of the allen screws wouldn't reach the threads so I scrounged up another allen screw that was long enough.

Total install took ~3-4hrs with brakes for football games. Pretty painless as long as you take your time.

Last edited by runit3; 10-08-2010 at 12:41 PM.
Old 01-16-2011 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by runit3
Also if you have the MOPAR gas tank cover it takes some fanagling to get the corner in the right spot. I ended up taking off the first piece of the cover (flip lid and allen screws) slaming the corner over the lip of the cover base. I had a friend hold it in place while I screwed the corner into the riv-nuts, then put the flip lid and allen screws in. One of the allen screws wouldn't reach the threads so I scrounged up another allen screw that was long enough.
I just did this install and I had some concerns about the Mopar fuel door. I ended up taking off the outer part of the fuel door (unscrewing the 4 working bolts). I then noticed that the fuel door is slightly larger than the hole in the AEV Corner. I installed AEV corner and then the Mopar fuel door. I was able to use the original bolts on the fuel door, but they pulled the inner part of the fuel door up too much. So I got slightly longer bolts (got them in black). I don't recall the size, but it was only slightly longer. Then I got eight (so I could double them up on the working bolts) neoprene washers I installed the new longer bolts and put the washers between the outer door and the innner door. The fit was perfect. Even better the door doesn't have any twist play like it did before I had the AEV corners installed.

Last edited by remark; 01-16-2011 at 07:55 PM.
Old 01-16-2011 | 10:43 PM
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I noticed you got a mopar fuel door. Does yours fit like shit to?

The corners look great man.
Old 01-17-2011 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by DCJEEP
I noticed you got a mopar fuel door. Does yours fit like shit to?

The corners look great man.
Mine was loose on before I got the AEV corners. I could twist it about a 1/4 of an inch either direction. Now that my corners are on it fits tight and doesn't twist. I meant to try to figure out why it is better now, but it is on low priority.




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