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Tire pressures in snow?

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Old 01-16-2009, 08:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by w squared
...Pizza cutters work great...up to a point. If your diffs and the belly of your vehicle will end up high-centering you, then you don't want pizza cutters. Choose your technique based upon the conditions...
This is what I'm thinking as well...I'm thinking it's really situationally dependant....else why would there be so many hardcores on either side of the fence right? If one way simply worked for all conditions I'm pretty sure it would be commonly accepted and never refuted....as it is, we have two schools of thought with good arguments on both sides...
either way it's off to the trails tomorrow for me on my 33" FirestoneDestinations, weather has warmed up considerably up here to +6C (from -26C a couple weeks ago) and from what I understand about 1.5-2' of snow out there...so the snows gonna be a different composition than the powder I was expecting, we'll see what happens cause I'm not bringing any chains with me...just a bunch of buddies
And yes I definately believe that off road and on road are two different worlds when it comes to tire inflation...definately maintain proper pressure while operating on road...maintains appropriate handling characteristics, reduces heat build up improving tire life, and improves pounds per square inch traction....it's the off road I'm curious about...
Old 01-17-2009, 08:14 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BlackNorthernJK
This is what I'm thinking as well...I'm thinking it's really situationally dependant....else why would there be so many hardcores on either side of the fence right? If one way simply worked for all conditions I'm pretty sure it would be commonly accepted and never refuted....as it is, we have two schools of thought with good arguments on both sides...
either way it's off to the trails tomorrow for me on my 33" FirestoneDestinations, weather has warmed up considerably up here to +6C (from -26C a couple weeks ago) and from what I understand about 1.5-2' of snow out there...so the snows gonna be a different composition than the powder I was expecting, we'll see what happens cause I'm not bringing any chains with me...just a bunch of buddies
And yes I definately believe that off road and on road are two different worlds when it comes to tire inflation...definately maintain proper pressure while operating on road...maintains appropriate handling characteristics, reduces heat build up improving tire life, and improves pounds per square inch traction....it's the off road I'm curious about...
I live way up in Northern Quebec (Kuujjuaq) and temperatures in the winter ranges from -20 to -40 from November to March. The snow here is very dry and hard packed almost like concrete. Aired down is the way to go to stay on top of the snow cover. If you start digging into that kind of stuff and get high centered your gonna be stuck for a long long time.

Tire inflation in snow is dependant on the kind of snow you will be wheeling in. In hard packed snow air down to minimum PSI to increase Foot print and flotation.
Old 01-17-2009, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillie
I live way up in Northern Quebec (Kuujjuaq) and temperatures in the winter ranges from -20 to -40 from November to March. The snow here is very dry and hard packed almost like concrete. Aired down is the way to go to stay on top of the snow cover. If you start digging into that kind of stuff and get high centered your gonna be stuck for a long long time.

Tire inflation in snow is dependant on the kind of snow you will be wheeling in. In hard packed snow air down to minimum PSI to increase Foot print and flotation.
I do believe you may be correct sir...normally the snow up here is pretty powdery and dry as well, however in the past couple days it's warmed up from -26C to +8C turning all that powder to slippery wet crap and airing down sucked serious b@ll$, proper inflation to dig through was the ticket today me thinks....so again, I'm gonna go with situationally dependant, both airing up and down seem to have there place
Old 01-18-2009, 11:18 AM
  #44  
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I went wheeling yesterday and to get around in the snow I needed to drop to 8 psi with the stock rubi tires and wheels.

If you dug in you were done and needed to be winched or pulled out.

The link is to some picutres of yesterday.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-trails-tales-71/west-branch-sno-run-1-17-2009-a-69039/
Old 01-25-2009, 04:53 PM
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There is nothing more fun than breaking trail in the deep snow, but i have a question, after running in the deep snow for a while i lost my brakes. pedal would just go to the floor. after a while they came back and all was fine but quite a shock comming off the trail and onto the hi way. any one else run into this i am sure the rotors and pads are wet but no pedal at all.
Old 01-25-2009, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mariner
There is nothing more fun than breaking trail in the deep snow, but i have a question, after running in the deep snow for a while i lost my brakes. pedal would just go to the floor. after a while they came back and all was fine but quite a shock comming off the trail and onto the hi way. any one else run into this i am sure the rotors and pads are wet but no pedal at all.
Maybe snow kept getting shoved between the rotors and calipers and slowly pushed the pistons back into the cylinders.
It would take a few pumps to get them back were they belong. Just a guess.
Old 01-26-2009, 03:31 PM
  #47  
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yea i thought about snow getting between rotors and calipers but it was at least 10 miles on and off the brakes before i started to feel them come back. at first i thought i had busted a line thats how easy the pedal went down.
Old 01-28-2009, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by planman
In the Intermountain West (Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Colorado, etc.), for offroad snow wheeling we air down to less than rockcrawling psi for more flotation.

With 33s, it is common to air down to 10-12 psi for rockcrawling and 6-8 psi for snow wheeling.

With 37s it is common to air down to 7-10 psi for rockcrawling and 4-8 psi for snow wheeling.

These psi levels are for offroad use only.

I have never seen someone lose a bead at these psi levels. If there is someone in our group who struggles (constantly needs a tow strap), they are always running too much psi.

The strategy in crusty snow is often to idle over it--at least with a 2 dr on 35s at 6 psi you can drive on top as long as you don't spin your tires and break through the top layers.

The strategy for soft snow is to have the rigs on 40s with lots of horsepower break the trail, followed by the guys on 37s, then the 35s, etc.

Regarding the picture below, the first rig was a 4 Runner on 39s with performance V8 (not in the picture). The rig in the right front of the picture is a 4 Runner on 37s. Then the black TJ is mine on 33s, followed by the yellow Bronco on 35s, etc., etc.

I agree with airing DOWN. THE HARDER THE RUBBER (high PSI) THE MORE "SPIN" YOU'LL GET OUT OF THE TIRES. Air down.
Old 02-02-2009, 09:48 PM
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Some very interesting ideas. I have never really thought about airing down or up as some of you also suggested. Frankly as far as I am concern 2 pairs of Rud grip 4x4, one on each tire will work great in snow or extreme mud.
Old 02-02-2009, 10:09 PM
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Tires do not 'float' on snow. Nor do they float in water unless they are 50" balloon tires. What make a tire work in snow is 'compaction' If the tire can compact enough snow to support the weight of the vehicle before any of the undercarriage touches, then you will be able to move. A wide tire (made wider by airing down) will compact more snow than a similar skinny tire.


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