more capable with no lift
10-28-2014 | 03:09 PM
#41
JK Freak
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: North East MD
Here are some pics of my 2012 JK Rubicon. I have flat flares with 285/75/17 TOYO MT. NO LIFT. It does great off-road. Now, I admit I don't wheel it "hard", but I have gone up some snow covered trails that nothing other then a good 4x4 was going to make. I got the Jeep for camping and it does great on all the trails Ive run and even the places where there were no trails.
10-28-2014 | 04:47 PM
#42
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Here are some pics of my 2012 JK Rubicon. I have flat flares with 285/75/17 TOYO MT. NO LIFT. It does great off-road. Now, I admit I don't wheel it "hard", but I have gone up some snow covered trails that nothing other then a good 4x4 was going to make. I got the Jeep for camping and it does great on all the trails Ive run and even the places where there were no trails. <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=581960"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=581961"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=581962"/>
10-29-2014 | 12:58 AM
#43
JK Junkie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,145
Likes: 4
From: Israel
"I hate how the steering geometry goes insane with even the smallest lifts"
That's a myth.
On my previous Jeep, I could change between 0" and 4" lift (it had air springs). With 4" it didn't behave any worse than with 0". Part of the good overall ride and handling quality was due to the air springs, and steering definitely didn't suffer.
The current JKUR, with 4" lift, behaved and steered well, no flaw vs stock.
Then, after adding the Full Traction CRC Link, the steering of the 4" lifted Jeep had improved and became much better than stock, as the typical (to live rear axles) need for constant little steering corrections is gone.
That's a myth.
On my previous Jeep, I could change between 0" and 4" lift (it had air springs). With 4" it didn't behave any worse than with 0". Part of the good overall ride and handling quality was due to the air springs, and steering definitely didn't suffer.
The current JKUR, with 4" lift, behaved and steered well, no flaw vs stock.
Then, after adding the Full Traction CRC Link, the steering of the 4" lifted Jeep had improved and became much better than stock, as the typical (to live rear axles) need for constant little steering corrections is gone.
I had a totally different experience with my 3.5" (actual) lift. With the 3.5", my front axle shifted to the driver side almost an inch until I added an adjustable track bar. I just don't see how going up 4" with the track bar remaining the same length could not affect the geometry. Hitting a bump with the axle shifted would make the Jeep want to sharply turn to one direction, not fun.
When properly done, the claim that - "I hate how the steering geometry goes insane with even the smallest lifts", is simply not true.
My suggestion to the original question which was "more capable without a lift" I would say that you need to cut the fenders or install flat fenders so you can fit 35" or 37" tires, install a snorkel if you are anticipating any high water, add a full set of skid plates or at least for the engine oil pan and transmission along with a good set of rock rails, and finally if you are going to add an aftermarket front bumper with a winch, you will want at the minimum a leveling kit.
Last edited by GJeep; 10-29-2014 at 01:00 AM.
10-29-2014 | 05:09 AM
#44
JK Freak
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: North East MD
10-29-2014 | 05:43 AM
#46
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
That has been my first priority. I self modded my front sway bar links to quick disconnect then put on an engine/tranny skid and now have an evap skid in the mail. I have a Willys edition so I already have stock rubicon rock sliders, rubicon tires, and factory limited slip rear diff. I would hate to pick a bad line and break the line running under my tranny or crush the evap canister and be stuck on a trail wishing I had bought the skids instead of lights or a BB or something else that didn't REALLY help me that much.
10-29-2014 | 06:07 AM
#47
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 367
From: Southwest Reno, NV
A broken evap will not affect the jeep other then an engine light and relocation is better then skidding to save the weight. If you are going to be doing alot of rock I would do the oil pan, transmission, and a heavy duty cross member as they get toasted in the rocks. You will loose some ground clearacne with skids though and if you are dragging now it will be worse with skids.
10-29-2014 | 07:45 AM
#48
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
That has been my first priority. I self modded my front sway bar links to quick disconnect then put on an engine/tranny skid and now have an evap skid in the mail. I have a Willys edition so I already have stock rubicon rock sliders, rubicon tires, and factory limited slip rear diff. I would hate to pick a bad line and break the line running under my tranny or crush the evap canister and be stuck on a trail wishing I had bought the skids instead of lights or a BB or something else that didn't REALLY help me that much.
