youre putting what where?
#1
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
youre putting what where?
OK...heres the newest.
After I replace my exhaust with dual Harley exhaust,
Im enlarging the trunk area...yes, many have.
i know.
Anyway, after dynamatting the interior of the space, I am building a tuned bandpass for a JL10W1 in that space...
It will come up 2 inches above the current floor of the Jeep, and will vent forward under the rear seat.
This should keep most moisture and debris out of it.
Throwing a simple 150w mono Alpine V12 amp on it that I have lying around.
Plus, I retain almost all of my cargo room...more if you consider the Infinity sub will be gone.
LOL I just realized....girls in the backseat are gonna LOVE IT!!!!
After I replace my exhaust with dual Harley exhaust,
Im enlarging the trunk area...yes, many have.
i know.
Anyway, after dynamatting the interior of the space, I am building a tuned bandpass for a JL10W1 in that space...
It will come up 2 inches above the current floor of the Jeep, and will vent forward under the rear seat.
This should keep most moisture and debris out of it.
Throwing a simple 150w mono Alpine V12 amp on it that I have lying around.
Plus, I retain almost all of my cargo room...more if you consider the Infinity sub will be gone.
LOL I just realized....girls in the backseat are gonna LOVE IT!!!!
#2
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Franklin, Indiana
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I would love to see this. I have a 2 door also and want to see this shit worked out!!!!!!
Damn how much time in a day do you have time to think about what you can do to your jeep
YOU ARE A MAD MAN!!!!!!!
Damn how much time in a day do you have time to think about what you can do to your jeep
YOU ARE A MAD MAN!!!!!!!
#3
I have some experience building 4th order bandpass enclosures (moslty tri-chamber 2 sub ones) and I can tell you that it is a total pain in the ass to build a good one with a very wide frequency range. If you need any help or tips lemmie know. BTW to make them very efficient you have to make them huge. Last one I built took up the entire trunk of a car for 2 12s. And it was a big ass trunk. Anyway, good luck with it. Don't forget to show us.
#4
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
I have some experience building 4th order bandpass enclosures (moslty tri-chamber 2 sub ones) and I can tell you that it is a total pain in the ass to build a good one with a very wide frequency range. If you need any help or tips lemmie know. BTW to make them very efficient you have to make them huge. Last one I built took up the entire trunk of a car for 2 12s. And it was a big ass trunk. Anyway, good luck with it. Don't forget to show us.
As long as you have the speaker specs, the rest is just math....
Then design and construction (which I love, obviously).
I really like this model sub (JL10W1), so I try to stick with it as much as possible, even though its an older model.
I stopped using cylindrical ports a while back to drop out the boat whistle from air going across the opening.
Ill tune this one to in between 30 and 40hz, then swap out the other speakers for some with a lower frequency range.
It ends up being such an efficient enclosure that I only need 85-110w to this cute little baby 10 to out perform most dual 12s.
It may be overkill to attempt staging in an open air vehicle, but years of designing systems has made it to where I cant do it halfway....plus itll be fun at campouts, tailgate parties, and the beach.
Ill have to avoid any deep water stuff again though.
#5
You crack me up Crash. Back in the late 80's when I was in high school, I drove an '86 fullsize Blazer with a 4" lift and 33" x 12.5" BFG's. Anyway, I built a box for two 10" subs in the back and most of the time I had the back seat out. Girls used to sit up against the subs and laugh and giggle everytime the bass would hit and blow their 80's hair forward.
#7
JK Super Freak
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#9
Cool, sounds like you have built more than me. I havent built a bandpass in 10 years or more. I remember back when they were everywhere! I cannot say they fit my personal needs, but I still think they are neat enclosures. They are way too boomy for the music I listen to but I have a place in my heart for those things. lol.
If anyone is thinking about building one and you don't have much experience building enclosures... don't try it until you have built some flawless sealed and ported ones. They are very tricky to build correctly and have no forgiveness if you make a mistake. When you build one correctly and it works the way you wanted they are really rewarding. If you dont know why someone would want one, they are pretty efficient, and cover some imperfections in sound but the best part is that you tune them to only produce sound within the frequency range you want. They don't need a crossover.
Crash, I am not trying to knock your sub choice.... But why the W1? I mean a bandpass is tons of work... and you are gonna spend more on materials than you are on the sub.... It just seems like putting a $5k paintjob on a 1982 Yugo. Plus it is so ez to blow a sub in a bandpass enclosure I cannot help but think using one with a wattage rating that low (even with an underpowered amp) is just asking for trouble. Is there something about the W1 I am missing?
If anyone is thinking about building one and you don't have much experience building enclosures... don't try it until you have built some flawless sealed and ported ones. They are very tricky to build correctly and have no forgiveness if you make a mistake. When you build one correctly and it works the way you wanted they are really rewarding. If you dont know why someone would want one, they are pretty efficient, and cover some imperfections in sound but the best part is that you tune them to only produce sound within the frequency range you want. They don't need a crossover.
Crash, I am not trying to knock your sub choice.... But why the W1? I mean a bandpass is tons of work... and you are gonna spend more on materials than you are on the sub.... It just seems like putting a $5k paintjob on a 1982 Yugo. Plus it is so ez to blow a sub in a bandpass enclosure I cannot help but think using one with a wattage rating that low (even with an underpowered amp) is just asking for trouble. Is there something about the W1 I am missing?
#10
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
The 10w1 is cheap now...but was around 130 when released.
materials are far below that.
I choose it now because ive had good experiences with it.
Originally though, It was because I like the clean crisp sound produced by that sub, and the small amount of space required for enclosures. I love hiding subs and allowing sound to come from apparently nowhere.
I also choose it because I have one sitting in my garage, and am broke. Same goes for my v12 mono amp.
Also, i have never blown a sub when I have done the research to match the amp to that particular sub.
And everybody, he's right....just because its easy for me, dont think its truly an easy task. I go through sheets and sheets of equations and designs before i begin production. I often mount subs on a double turned axis to make the enclosure fit in the required exterior space.
materials are far below that.
I choose it now because ive had good experiences with it.
Originally though, It was because I like the clean crisp sound produced by that sub, and the small amount of space required for enclosures. I love hiding subs and allowing sound to come from apparently nowhere.
I also choose it because I have one sitting in my garage, and am broke. Same goes for my v12 mono amp.
Also, i have never blown a sub when I have done the research to match the amp to that particular sub.
And everybody, he's right....just because its easy for me, dont think its truly an easy task. I go through sheets and sheets of equations and designs before i begin production. I often mount subs on a double turned axis to make the enclosure fit in the required exterior space.
Last edited by AlmightyCrash; 11-27-2009 at 07:25 PM.