Coco

Hi All,
I am a total novice to wiring and i'm totally scared to burn down my jeep! I have read multiple posts on wiring these switches and the more i read, the more i confuse myself. Please let me run this by you experts for some corrections and adjustments.
Few goals I'd like to accomplish:
1) switch lights come on when dash lights do and are dimmable
2) Switch 3 will turn on and off both sets of lights at the same time, but switch 1 and switch 2 should still be able to turn on their own lights indepentantly while switch 3 is in the off position
3) i would really like to avoid an electrical fire

Few notes:
1) I'm using 18gauge wire
2) I'm using the factory KC wiring harnesses
3) switch 4 is just for show - but i would like it to light up with the others (and the image to light up once switched on)

Here is my diagram:

Please let me know if i can provide more info, how wrong i am, or if it is even possible to have a 3rd switch override switches 1 and 2.
Thanks!

JK-Ford

Everything is correct except for terminal #2. You should have 12 Volts ( + ) at all of these terminals. You light grounds should go back to the battery.

bobholthaus

Coco: can you snapa pic of the OTRATTW diagram for that particular switch? That would help. Like JK-Ford said, other than 2 going to either a live circuit or a switched circuit, this looks correct if I remember the directions correctly. For a novice, you nailed this, which isn't easy with those switches and all of their spades. Nice work.

JK- does he need a diode on switch 3 if 1 or 2 are on and he accidentally turns on 3? Or does it matter, since they're all sourcing from the same place?

JK-Ford

Good catch. I missed that. Ya diodes would work. But I would prefer to use something like this.

8 PIN RELAY ROUND PIN 12V DC [CGBRELAY8R12DC] - $13.20 : Electrician Supplies, ready and available for you online right here

Use Sw #3 to turn on this relay ( it has two seperate outputs ). This relay would then turn on the other two sets of relay / lights.

cbass1187

bookmarked for future use.....thanks.

Coco

Thanks guys I appreciate the help but I still can't help but feel like one step forward two steps back.

What do I connect the number two spades to?

What does the diode at switch #3 do? I was just hoping to use my zombie light switch as a quick on off for all lights.

The wiring harness from KC has a green. and white wire leading to the stock switch The Green has all the fuses on it. The white one has a fuse and open end. I assumed that one went to the battery?

I'm not at my desk right now but I'll post pics later tonight. Let me see if I have this straight, I daisy chain all the twos together and then connect them to the white wire that came with the KC wiring harness and that connects to the battery?

Sorry if I'm so dense, but thanks again for all your help

JK-Ford

The #2 terminal needs 12 Volt ( + )
----If your using all relays, get the power from an accessory circuit.
----If the switches go straight to the lights, get your power from the battery ( break thru relay )

The #3 switch works just fine. Problem with your current wiring is: if you turn ON the #1 switch, power flows to the #3 switch and back to the #2 switch. So, in effect, all 3 switches will work the same as the #3 switch. So, you have to: A) Use diodes to block the backfeed. Or B) Use the 2 output relay so the power can not backfeed.

Don't remember KC's color codes. But you should have two wires with fuses ( one big / one little ). The big wire and fuse goes straight to the battery on one end. And to the relay on the other. The little wire and fuse goes to an accessory circuit on the power end. And to the switch on the other.

You need to somehow shut the power OFF when you turn OFF the key. So connect this wire to an accessory circuit ( if controling relays ). Or run this circuit to the battery. But break it thru a relay controled by an accessory circuit.

bobholthaus

Coco: call me at 314-680-2624 (not now though, it's 12:30 am) and I'll talk you off the cliff. When it comes to wiring, I'm like a surgeon. But JK-Ford is like a brain surgeon! (That's a compliment). He and I have bantered before; my stuff works 99% of the time, but his will work 100% of the time come hell or high water. But there's a trade off in complexity in the way he wires things. I would consider myself anal when it comes to wiring; but I'm pretty sure he's an electrical engineer, which means he does it 1000% by the book. Again, both ways will work (I've been wiring for 25 years), but I try to keep it as simple as possible with as few parts as possible. Our jeeps are tight on space, and every inch counts. You are 97% of the way there; don't let either of us confuse you. Call me and I'll walk you over the finish line. If you want it done like an electrical engineer, call JK! He does know more than me technically, but I'm 100% confident in my wiring.

JK-Ford

Thanks for the complement. Understand that while at my everyday job, I am required to install systems that people can depend on for the next 50 to 100 years. Just take a look around at some of the oldest structures in your community. Those craftsmen worked with the same integrity on their installations. Chooseing the easiest way usually isn't the best way. And it doesn't really have to be complicated to be robust. A relay may cost a few dollars more than a diode. And may take a little more time to install. But that little bit of extra expense of time and energy will make a huge differance in return. For those who do not wish to exert this extra effort, I understand. But i'm more than happy to help those who do.

Coco

Sorry, I'm finally getting back to this.
Would this relay be the same?
or this one?
The link you sent was form Australia...i was hoping to buy more local
Hopefully this is the last part i need and i can try to re-draw my connections.

Thanks Again Guys, Big Big Help!