Notices
JK Electrical, Lighting & Sound Systems Bulletin board forum regarding topics such as stereo head units, CD players, MP3 players, speaker systems, amplifiers, hardmounted GPS devices, computers, headlight upgrades, fog lights, off-road lights, general wiring and anti-theft devices.

Wrangler/Nitro amp this issue is MESSED up

Thread Tools
 
Old 08-22-2008, 04:47 AM
  #31  
JK Freak
 
jfreeddo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Jenks, OK
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

well, i don't know if that's really true about the "auto-flashing" of something.

I still have the nitro amp in and it was in a few weeks ago when i took it in for 1st oil change, had the top off and no jumper in place, and it was after the oil change when i noticed the improvement when reattaching the plug for the hardtop.

so, maybe since my rubi's build date is late may 2008, maybe the original amp was Pre-flashed and the computer says that, but it doesn't tell them that the amp is now a nitro amp, but anyway, it's been in for service and still has louder volume when jumper or cable is connected.
Old 08-22-2008, 06:50 AM
  #32  
JK Enthusiast
 
ShadedOutDoors's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mansfield, PA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default What the Hell

This is truley weird I do not understand the idea or design of this feature!

I install the nitro amp a couple weeks back with my hardtop on made a good differnece I was very pleased with the quality and volume of sound. I had the stereo on one day while iw as disconnecting the hardtop plug and all the sudden the sound went down I'm like OK plug it back in, more sound?what the hell. Then my speakers started popping crackling, I told the dealership took it down and they reflashed my nitro amp which pretty much made it stock. SO I just ordered another nitro amp and am gonna try the jump for the hard top. No of this makes any sense to me.
Old 08-22-2008, 08:30 AM
  #33  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
onvacation's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: livonia, michigan
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jfreeddo
well, i don't know if that's really true about the "auto-flashing" of something.

I still have the nitro amp in and it was in a few weeks ago when i took it in for 1st oil change, had the top off and no jumper in place, and it was after the oil change when i noticed the improvement when reattaching the plug for the hardtop.

so, maybe since my rubi's build date is late may 2008, maybe the original amp was Pre-flashed and the computer says that, but it doesn't tell them that the amp is now a nitro amp, but anyway, it's been in for service and still has louder volume when jumper or cable is connected.
Please re-read what I said, I think you may be misunderstanding me. You said you had it in for an oil change, that's fine, your's probably already shows on the computer that the flash was done, or it probably was never subject to it as you pointed out, so No they wouldn't re-doo the flash, and No, they wouldn't have any way of knowing a Nitro amp was in it. If you don't believe me about automatically doing the flash, check with any dealer, they will tell you. The flash is a "Service Advisory" "SA", which are always done by the dealer when they punch in your vin and the computer shows that it needs to be done. Once it's done the computer reflects that so it doesn't come up again after that. Don't confuse it with a "Technical Service Bulletin" "TSB" which are only performed if a customer is experiencing a problem that a TSB covers. FYI my 08 Sahara was built Aug 07 and was subject to the flash, you are probably rite in that your May 08 build was already programmed that way from the factory and if that was the case, your probably never was subject to the flash in the first place. If you ever do experience the Popping and Crackling and complain to the dealer about it, they will probably do the flash, which will CRAP your Nitro amp. This whole thing is really a Chrysler MESS that they don't seem to care about.
Old 08-22-2008, 09:11 AM
  #34  
JK Freak
 
jfreeddo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Jenks, OK
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by onvacation
Please re-read what I said, I think you may be misunderstanding me. You said you had it in for an oil change, that's fine, your's probably already shows on the computer that the flash was done, or it probably was never subject to it as you pointed out, so No they wouldn't re-doo the flash, and No, they wouldn't have any way of knowing a Nitro amp was in it. If you don't believe me about automatically doing the flash, check with any dealer, they will tell you. The flash is a "Service Advisory" "SA", which are always done by the dealer when they punch in your vin and the computer shows that it needs to be done. Once it's done the computer reflects that so it doesn't come up again after that. Don't confuse it with a "Technical Service Bulletin" "TSB" which are only performed if a customer is experiencing a problem that a TSB covers. FYI my 08 Sahara was built Aug 07 and was subject to the flash, you are probably rite in that your May 08 build was already programmed that way from the factory and if that was the case, your probably never was subject to the flash in the first place. If you ever do experience the Popping and Crackling and complain to the dealer about it, they will probably do the flash, which will CRAP your Nitro amp. This whole thing is really a Chrysler MESS that they don't seem to care about.

oh, yeah, sorry, no i wasn't really meaning to say you were completely wrong or anything. during my post, i kinda thought it through and realized that it probably was that due to the build date of mine that it would show that it didn't need the flash, so i should be ok as long as i don't complain to them about the system.

sorry for misunderstanding.

so, maybe the lesson is:

if you have a build date from ?earlier than May 2008, 1st take it to the dealer with the original wrangler amp in it, complain about the popping, get them to do the flash, then they'll show yours as being flashed and not ever need the flash again, THEN after that put in the nitro amp and don't take it back to them with the nitro amp in it ever again, if you need to complain or have work done on the radio system at all, switch it back out to the wrangler amp. and do the jumper thing when the hard top connector is not connected.
Old 08-22-2008, 10:03 AM
  #35  
JK Jedi
 
bigbluejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: texarkana,tx
Posts: 5,168
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The amp situation seems like there is a super logical easy fix... Just buy an aftermarket amp! Then you control the volume completely. There are some small 5 channel amps that would fit in perfectly where the original was, and give way better power and sound than the original probably.
Old 08-22-2008, 12:53 PM
  #36  
JK Jedi
 
bigbluejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: texarkana,tx
Posts: 5,168
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by putnam dan
If you could identify one that might be more helpful
Alpine PDX-5


75w x 4 + 300w x 1 RMS
Foot Print (WxHxD) in: 10-1/8'' x 2-13/32'' x 7-35/64''

If someone sends me one I would gladly do a write up on how to install it
Old 08-22-2008, 02:08 PM
  #37  
JK Freak
 
jfreeddo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Jenks, OK
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

yes, but some of us are just trying to maximize the power that we have or can get in easily for the lowest amount of money, only $120 for the nitro amp and i am waaaaaayyyyyyy happy!!

would be out at a minimum more than doulbe with anything else.
Old 08-26-2008, 09:40 AM
  #38  
JK Jedi
 
bigbluejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: texarkana,tx
Posts: 5,168
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by jacket jeeper
Yes, on the back side of the instrument panel with gauges. You get it out by first taking off the steering column panel. This will reveal 2 screws holding the cover for the instrument panel. Take them out and take the cover off. Then take off the the 4 screws holding the instrument panel and look on the back (You can pull it out a little bit with the connectors on). There are 3 connectors going to it, a 10pin black one, a 20 pin brown one, and a 20 pin black one. The 20 pin black is what you want and there should only be one violet/white wire going into it. Sorry, I didn't get a pic but here is the pinout of that connector, I think it will be obvious when you see it.

CLUSTER C3 – BLACK 20 WAY CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 - -
2 - -
3 - -
4 - -
5 C215 20LB REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER SWITCH SIGNAL
6 - -
7 C21 18DB/LG EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
8 C4 18LB A/C INDICATOR DRIVER
9 - -
10 X3 20DG/VT HORN SWITCH SENSE
11 K321 18BR/YL BTSI UNLOCK SIGNAL
12 - -
13 - -
14 T6 18DG TOW/HAUL OD OFF SIGNAL
15 - -
16 - -
17 - -
18 G926 18VT/WT REAR WIPER SWITCH MUX RETURN
19 - -
20 - -
Has anyone done this? Has anyone done it that does not have the factory amp? My Mygig has something telling it to sound like crap I think.
Old 08-27-2008, 10:55 AM
  #39  
JK Jedi
 
bigbluejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: texarkana,tx
Posts: 5,168
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Ok I grounded that wire behind my cluster. I do not have the factory amp. It made a significant difference. Before it was loud for half a second when I changed stations and then sounded washed out. Now it seems to have more depth and volume.
Old 09-09-2008, 09:32 PM
  #40  
JK Enthusiast
 
hscrugby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: raleigh, nc
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So just curious if anyone else's nittro amps have noticed they are in JKs?

I think that they are communicating with the mygig/canbus, so at any given point they could notice they are in a JK and "set" the eq levels to that level.
I could be missing something obvious here, (not an engineer for HK, and didn't even stay at a holiday inn) but it seems like if everything is on the can bus, it's just a matter of "when" it's going to go back to the JK values from the nittro values.

Or did I miss something and they only get power, remote switched power, ground, and speaker inputs?


Quick Reply: Wrangler/Nitro amp this issue is MESSED up



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:18 AM.