won't start after new marker light install
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won't start after new marker light install
Post-fender chop, I decided to install new LED marker lights. To verify the correct wiring, I tested by connecting the wires (engine running -headlights on) - which was fine until I saw a spark and the marker lights on both sides shut off. I presumed it was a fuse, so I shut the engine and proceeded to search, but I couldn't find the exact parking/marker fuse - but in general i couldn't find any that were blown (only checked the smaller colored fuses).
getting dark, so called it quits... but I go to turn over the engine, and nothing (no clicking, cranking, etc) even though the typical cluster lights are on, radio works, headlights work (markers still dont work!), etc...
did I accidentally blow something else?
thanks for any help in advance...
getting dark, so called it quits... but I go to turn over the engine, and nothing (no clicking, cranking, etc) even though the typical cluster lights are on, radio works, headlights work (markers still dont work!), etc...
did I accidentally blow something else?
thanks for any help in advance...
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just checked manual... will need to inspect the m17 & m18 fuses for the marker light issue... and inspect j17 (starter solenoid) for the starter issue.
any other ideas? was reading about folks needing to reset the ecu or PCM by diconnecting the battery (not sure if that applies to me - the red light above the temp gauge does not stay on after turning the ignition).
any other ideas? was reading about folks needing to reset the ecu or PCM by diconnecting the battery (not sure if that applies to me - the red light above the temp gauge does not stay on after turning the ignition).
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no alarm. verified that left/right parking light (2) and ignition fuses are intact. I tried the "disco battery reset" idea overnight - still no sound turning key. anyone else have any ideas?
Last edited by nytennisaddict; 07-05-2011 at 06:40 AM.
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Where the led wiring was where there more than two wires? Is it possible you shorted to another wire? Also it is always better to work on a dead circuit (without power) you can verify you have the correct wires with a meter after. Spent years as an avionics tech in the Marines. Sounds like you blew a circuit or sent power to a wire that wasn't supposed to have it like a computer input. Need more details or photos. Is there more than one fuse block in the Jeep and how are you checking the fuses visually or with a meter? Some times a fuse can look good but still be blown always verify with a meter too.
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Where the led wiring was where there more than two wires? Is it possible you shorted to another wire? Also it is always better to work on a dead circuit (without power) you can verify you have the correct wires with a meter after. Spent years as an avionics tech in the Marines. Sounds like you blew a circuit or sent power to a wire that wasn't supposed to have it like a computer input. Need more details or photos. Is there more than one fuse block in the Jeep and how are you checking the fuses visually or with a meter? Some times a fuse can look good but still be blown always verify with a meter too.
Regarding working on a dead circuit - I believe this experience is proving to be a tough lesson :P
I only visually checked the fuses (2-park lights, 1 ignition), I'll try verifying with a multimeter tonight.
By "bigger fuses" I'm presuming you mean the bigger main fuses (ie. greater than 50A)... I'll check those too.
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did you disconnect the LED's before trying to start it ? I wired my LED markers and the white wire on the LED goes to the black wire on the jeep (2010 model anyway) and the black LED wire goes to the white wire on the Jeep.
here is my write up
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...p+marker+light
good luck
also check the IGN fuse
here is my write up
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...p+marker+light
good luck
also check the IGN fuse
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thx for the replies so far...
I have a manual... I tried the "start in neutral" idea - though I think that only applies to autos.
i checked (with multimeter) the continuity of the ignition fuse (m27), and starter solenoid fuse (j17) - (and parking fuses) - all ok.
I even swapped the relays (there are a set of 4 identical relays and a set of 2 slightly bigger side by side relays) around a number I times (thinking maybe I fried a relay if that's possible).
another thing i noticed, when i turn the key to start I do notice a clicking sound coming from the "rear blower relay" (k9). not sure why that would make any noise or get a signal during ignition (deduced by systematically removing all other relays one by one). I thought if anything, one of the starter relays would "click".
I'll review that led write-up, thx!
would really appreciate any help diagnosing.. at least exhaust all possibilities before sending her back to the dealership to repay all the money I saved from learning diy from this forum
I have a manual... I tried the "start in neutral" idea - though I think that only applies to autos.
i checked (with multimeter) the continuity of the ignition fuse (m27), and starter solenoid fuse (j17) - (and parking fuses) - all ok.
I even swapped the relays (there are a set of 4 identical relays and a set of 2 slightly bigger side by side relays) around a number I times (thinking maybe I fried a relay if that's possible).
another thing i noticed, when i turn the key to start I do notice a clicking sound coming from the "rear blower relay" (k9). not sure why that would make any noise or get a signal during ignition (deduced by systematically removing all other relays one by one). I thought if anything, one of the starter relays would "click".
I'll review that led write-up, thx!
would really appreciate any help diagnosing.. at least exhaust all possibilities before sending her back to the dealership to repay all the money I saved from learning diy from this forum