Do you have a meter? If so, check for continuity with the fuse in the holder; remove the wire from the battery and switch, you ought to see a short or nearly 0 ohms, if it is open or infinite ohms, your fuse holder is faulty. remove/replace.

 

I'll go get my meter and check. You're saying fuse holder as in the fuse tap accessory Im using?



Just checked the fuse tap, theres no current coming out of it, but it is getting to the fuse itself.

EDIT: Gonna go check the inline fuses.

 

Find a spare terminal on the TIPM (Fuse panel) that is only on with the key in the run position for your switch power. You will only need a 5a fuse for this part of the circuit as a relay has very little load to it. This will keep you from draining your battery with the key off or in acc mode.

 

Checked the inline fuse that connects the fusebox to the switch, this is what I found. Not sure if this is what's been causing all the trouble or if I just blew it screwing around trying to figure out whats wrong.

 

I guess I should have verified. I was under the impression that you tapped like this--



in which case you're tapping off the output side of the fuse and running an additional cartridge fuse in-line to the switch.

 

Okay so I just took a look at the inline cartridge that connects the fusebox to the switch. Earlier when you said for me to hook it from battery to switch, the switch still didnt have power. Well I took the blown fuse out the cartridge and tested it to find that it has power when directly connected to the battery but not the fusebox. The current isn't making it from one end of the cartridge to the other( that goes to the switch). I tried just touching the 2 metal ends of the cartridge together, and it showed it was powering the switch but the lights and nothing else came on. I have another fuse I stuck in the cartridge (its a much larger rating), and the current didn't travel through it either. I'm really lost now.

 

Easiest way to fix your problem is ditch the fuse box connection and just run a power from the battery to the switch, just use an inline fuse.

 

at no point should you have an open with the fuse in place if you are testing this portion of the circuit.

 

This helped me understand alot better, I appreciate it. First thing tomorrow morning I'll check all those properly. If I can't get these things to come on, I have an electrical engineer neighbor who is much better than me at this I'm sure. Thanks for all the helps & suggestions everyone, I'll report back with the conclusion.

 

now you have me confused. Earlier you stated that you have power to the fuse, but no output...was this in reference to the fuse tap @ the block or the cartridge fuse holder? seems in the statement above you have power to the input side of the cartridge holder with no output? (in which case I would tell you replace the fuse holder with a blade type holder and fuse). When you remove the tap from the fuse block and read from the tap to the end of the wire (removed from the switch) I would assume you are reading an open as you are not getting power. If you read from the tap to the inside of the cartridge fuse holder, I would assume you will also have a short or 0 ohms as you state you have power up until this point...which would make me believe that you will find an open from the output side of the cartridge holder to the end of the wire which connects to the switch. IIRC there is a small piece of copper on either end of that fuse holder that tends to fail.



I assuming that you checked and double checked your grounds?