Ok so I installed my LoD rear Gen2 bumper and tire carrier. Decided to wire up the rear lights on it on a switch since I have the daystar lower dash panel and a spare rocker switch. Got a light kit at autozone since I didnt have the light kit from LoD. Wired it up as per the instructions. Ground wires on both rear lights are grounded to the body, drilled two holes, one for each light. The power wires from theLoD lights come from each light, hook up to a harness that came in my autozone ligt kit, that has a "Y" in it, turning those two wires into one, which then runs all the way to the power out spot on my daystar switch. For power, the kit has me run a supplied wire and 15A inline fuse from the battery to the power in spot on my switch. The ground on my switch is just for the light on the switch to light up, its grounded to a bolt on the dash frame behind the glove box. Got it all wired up and turn the switch on, smell melting plastic after a few seconds so I turn it off. The inline fuse is just a few inches down the power wire coming from the battery. The plastic housing is melting on the output side of the fuse, where there is a spring and connector in there. No issues with the wiring anywhere else. All wiring is 12G wiring supplied in the kit, and the same size as the wires coming out of the LoD lights. Any clues? What did I do wrong? Is it the fact there is no relay? I'm kinda not to good with wiring, usually just buy and follow the instructions. Had a guy say I NEED a relay with this.

 

Inspect the inside of the fuse housing. I bet you will find a connection problem there. Or just upgrade your inline fuse.

 

I cant really inspect it anymore since the whole thing melted. It was just a wire going into the plastic housing, crimped to a metal connector that is flat on the other end, where the spring under the fuse sits.

 

Yes . They are flimsy. Usualy ( when they are not mlted ) you can push on the wire and the spring and crimp fitting will push through the holder. I have seen these things fail befor just like you said. Just go buy a better version. Or you can make your own with a couple of spade crimp on connectors. Just push in a spade fuse and wrap it with tape.

 

So a lack of a relay is not my problem then? Ill go by radioshack and see what they have.

What really is the purpose of a relay when wiring lights?

 

Well I did not say that you have the bet set-up. I personaly recomend using a relay for higher loads. Just feal your switch when the lights are on. They will probably feal warm. And you just seen the results of a bad connection. Now would you rather have that in the cab with you or under the hood. But, your problem is from a bad connection. Not the lack of a relay.

 

A relay is used to handle higher amperage current. The contacts in switches usually can't handle the higher amperage draw of high wattage lighting. So in most cases you use a switch to trigger the relay(basically a bigger switch) to provide power to your devices.

 

X2. The load of a relay across the switch contacts are very light. Only need a small fuse to protect this circuit. The contacts in a relay are heavier than those usualy found in a switch. And can handle heavier loads ( bigger fuse ). So, you saw what happens with a week connection and a heavy load. Now, if you get a week conection on a lighter load. Say a switch holding in a relay?. You will see less dramatic results. I know you say that the switch is rated for heavy load. But you can still feal it get warm. Now, feal the switch that is turning on a relay. COOL

 

I just wired up my LoD rear lights this afternoon. I used an autozone relay and one of the rocker switches you see everyone using. I had big plans but ended up just putting the relay on the bolt over the back of the battery and holding it down with a spare nut.

Power for the switch is off the M9 fuse slot. (Or M8... splitting hairs) Power runs in, to the switch and to a hidden cigarette lighter plug behind the side panel. The output of the switch goes back to the relay. Actual power for the lights runs from the battery to the relay which is under 12 inches total wire.

Got it?

Use a relay. It keeps higher current out of your dash area that doesn't need to be there. (and yes I know you probably ran the power wire all the way down the interior just like I did. )

 

Yes I did. But I used the correct size wire and fuse. And no splices ( possible week conections). So should be no problems.