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Winch wiring question

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Old 06-10-2015, 05:00 PM
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Default Winch wiring question

Hi. I just installed a warn 9.5 cti-s winch on my gen 2 Smitty xrc bumper. The winch install was very tight and not particularly easy. Well... Went to wire it up and the pos lead is too short. Because of the tight quarters I can't get the access panel off the winch to easily install a longer lead. So... Is there a way to safely lengthen the pos lead by using the existing terminal connector or do I have to remove winch and put a longer cable?? Would adding a fusible link give me more length? 8 inches or so would prolly do it. Thanks!
Old 06-10-2015, 10:51 PM
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You must be in a 2012+ JK. I had the same problem. You can either contact Warn and they will send you a short extension you can use on the positive cable. Or you can connect the winch to a post in the fuse box (this is what I did).

I can take a pic tomorrow and post it if you want.
Old 06-11-2015, 01:24 AM
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How about installing a fuse where the positive lead can reach, then a second cable to finish the run to the battery? Something like this ...

http://www.amazon.com/AIMS-Inline-Fu...s=500+amp+fuse

A battery shop can make the extra cable for you. Or you could buy the parts from a supplier I use (local to me) ...

http://www.spectrowireandcable.com/c...ry-Cables.html
Old 06-11-2015, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jonboy74
... you can connect the winch to a post in the fuse box (this is what I did). ....
I'm not sure that cable between the TIPM (assume that's what you're referring to as the "fuse box") and battery can handle the current draw of a winch under full load--typically approaching 500 amps. Leave your engine running (as most of us do when winching to give the battery some help from the alternator) and you could have the normal vehicle draw on that cable as well--engine fan (roughly 50 amps by itself), air conditioner fan, etc. On top of that, a smaller cable will give a greater voltage drop the higher the current draw, which means less power to the winch even when not under much load--plus that voltage drop is being turned into heat that could melt insulation or even start a fire. And that heating up tends to feed on itself since copper has a negative temperature coefficient: The hotter it is, the greater resistance it has to electrical flow. Suggest you reconsider this connection.

Last edited by Mark Doiron; 06-11-2015 at 01:35 AM.
Old 06-11-2015, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jonboy74
You must be in a 2012+ JK. I had the same problem. You can either contact Warn and they will send you a short extension you can use on the positive cable. Or you can connect the winch to a post in the fuse box (this is what I did).

I can take a pic tomorrow and post it if you want.
Yup.... 2015. Think the battery is rotated 90 degrees from the older ones. Yes please a pic would be great. I'll pm you my number if texting it is easier. Which method is electrically "safer" or is there no difference? Thanks!!
Old 06-11-2015, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
I'm not sure that cable between the TIPM (assume that's what you're referring to as the "fuse box") and battery can handle the current draw of a winch under full load--typically approaching 500 amps. Leave your engine running (as most of us do when winching to give the battery some help from the alternator) and you could have the normal vehicle draw on that cable as well--engine fan (roughly 50 amps by itself), air conditioner fan, etc. On top of that, a smaller cable will give a greater voltage drop the higher the current draw, which means less power to the winch even when not under much load--plus that voltage drop is being turned into heat that could melt insulation or even start a fire. And that heating up tends to feed on itself since copper has a negative temperature coefficient: The hotter it is, the greater resistance it has to electrical flow. Suggest you reconsider this connection.
Ah.. Read this after my previous question. That's my concern when I ask which is safer. Your fuse suggestion is along the lines of what I was thinking when I asked about a fusible link. Wasn't aware you could get an inline 500a fuse. Thank you also...
Old 06-11-2015, 02:01 AM
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I used the Warm power interrupt kit. This allowed me to extend the length of the cable and also control power to the winch. It now only receives power when the key is on and I flick a switch.

WARN 62132 - WARN Power Interrupt Kit - Quadratec

Old 06-11-2015, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
I used the Warm power interrupt kit. This allowed me to extend the length of the cable and also control power to the winch. It now only receives power when the key is on and I flick a switch.

WARN 62132 - WARN Power Interrupt Kit - Quadratec

Hmmmm... I like that idea too. Options are growing...lol. Thanks
Old 06-11-2015, 06:36 AM
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With a winch you want to go directly to the battery for power(or solenoid that just controls the winch that's connected directly to battery). Do not use any other power post under the hood!
Old 06-11-2015, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jchappies
With a winch you want to go directly to the battery for power(or solenoid that just controls the winch that's connected directly to battery). Do not use any other power post under the hood!
I get ya, but you're not saying the addition of fuse or disconnect is problematic, correct??


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