Check out this link.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2...cts-fail.shtml

 

I know this is an old post but would like others to know what I did. I sprayed the hell out of the connector inside the cover and out with Fluid Film. It is a waxy oil in a spray can. Does not wreck electronics but probably not the best for it. But many water crossings and mud holes later and JScan will turn that off and on on test mode at about the speed of sound. Got to waterproof all those connectors everywhere especially in our older units.

 

I think you’re lucky that it still works. I applied dielectric grease to mine and sealed the outside plug (not counting the gasket where it mates to the actuator) with rtv. Mine still failed. I don’t think it’s completely isolated to an electrical fault as much as a mechanical fault when water gets inside the actuator. Unless you coat the exterior of your actuator, you cannot stop water from getting in there.

I wish mopar would stop putting that junk in the Jeep and just use an antirock instead or some better form of disconnect if they need a stiffer sway bar.

 

So, I disconnected the harness, dried it out and did the same thing. My concern is I have no idea if salt water has gotten in there already so I'm trying to find a new harness so I can replace it, use the grease inside of the connector, and I have a friend who makes a steel box to cover the connection. That is my plan for now anyway.

 

If you can't locate the harness online, Baseline4x4 outfitters on eBay will have it. I've bought from them a few times and been happy with what I get- it's exactly as described, nothing more, nothing less. I bought a headlight harness from them (which basically spans from the fuse box clear to the other fender) and spliced in just the headlight sockets to repair the ones I destroyed in my harness.

 

Thought I would add to this, my swaybar light started blinking in early December, I used my procal to disable the sway bar inspected the connector, it looked fine so I left it plugged in. This weekend I had the entire cluster freakout with the following codes stored:

U0121
U0114
U0002
U0100
U1100
U0103

When I removed the connection to the sway bar it was severely burnt. I have removed the harness now and capped all of the wires. If the codes come back I will update this, but it appears that disabling the swaybar with a Jscan or procal is not enough to prevent it from screwing the entire canbus system, you must also disconnect the connector.

 

I enjoyed my smart bar as long as I could. At some point it was still limiting my travel while connected. I swapped it out with a Hellwig bar which is thicker and solid, and the on-road performance was VASTLY improved. Off-road too I suppose, since I just pop off the QDs and go to town. Do I miss the push button acivation? No, not really..

 

It was always my plan to go with a Currie Antirock, was just caught by surprise that even with it disabled in the computer it could still freak out the Canbus.