I'm trying to map out my switch set up and use forethought for future modifications. Looking at my existing and planned accessories I'm in need of the following switches and I like the layout I've listed below. However, I'm not sure how to wire up the Locker Power and Winch Power switches, so that the sPOD winch (in/out) and locker (F/R) buttons only work when the Power switches in the RR pillar pod are activated. I like having the power switch as a safety so a curious passenger or passer buyer can't activate the sPOD switches.

I'm also interested in if the SPOD can support a WINCH IN/OUT function using a 3 position switch or am I limited to having to use two 2 position switches?

Finally, I'm trying to decide if I want to run all front lights on one switch. I've always turned my 50" light bar and pod spots on together, I can't imagine any time when I'd only want some of them. Anyone have a good reason to separate the front lights? If needed I can run 2 parallel relays if I start pulling too many amps on one switch.

sPOD-
Compressor Activation
Front Locker
Rear Locker
CENTER AIR PRESSURE GAUGE
Winch In
Winch Out
???

Rugged Ridge Piller Switch Pod
Locker Power
Winch Power
AEROFORCE GAUGE

DayStar Lower Gauge Panel
Left Camp Lights
Front Lights
Rock Lights
Rear Lights
Right Camp Lights

 

Can't help with all of your questions, but just want to call a couple things to your attention that you may not be aware of. The "original" sPOD controller has four different configurations. With and without a hole gauge, and with and without dual-lit switches. Recommend the one with dual-lit switches. That is because you can go to OTRATTW.com and buy custom made toggles engraved with whatever. Part of that engraving is then backlit by the second light. The original light comes on when the switch is activated, backlighting the upper section of the engraving.

In order to limit connection to the Jeep electrical system to a battery wire and a ground, sPOD designed that controller with a switch to turn those backlights off and on. I rewired my sPOD controller so instead of turning on the lights, it provides power that is used to activate the relays that turn on the controlled devices. IOW, all of those switches are deactivated unless that switch is turned on first.

This is also a useful safety override, because I actually had one of those switches fail in a rather weird way. It was always activated. That one happened to be for my engine fan (which when activated actually turns off the fan). I was off-road at Buckhorn in Arkansas when it happened and I kept getting overheat warnings. Took me a few minutes to figure out, and sPOD sent me a new switch that fixed it. Great customer service!



Okay, last thing: I've read that sPOD is making a new controller with eight positions and some other neat features, including more current capability. So, you might do some research on that. I also heard a rumor that it might even have ignition switched power available in it.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

Thanks for the reply, that is a good idea using a backlight switch as an override. My plan is similar I figure I'll just wire my power switches to a relay and put the relay between the SPOD and the Lockers or winch thus interrupting the circuit until both switches are on.

I've looked into the new SPOD SE and I like it. I'm trying to figure out if I can get the 8 relay source and use the old 6 switch + gauge pod with the other two switches being wired elsewhere. We'll see if it's possible, i've reached out to sPOD on Facebook.