matt852

I was given a Rockford Fostgate 1410 10 inch sub by a friend and it appears the cone's adhesive to the metal surrounding is coming off is the subwoofer still good? Its only a 4 inch long area where the adhesive stopped holding the cone.
What type of glue do I use for this thing if it's still useable?

bigbluejk

I would use Cyanoacrylate (ca) glue. You can get it on ebay if you can't find it. Might want to replace the surround if it is in bad shape

EDIT: make sure if you get CA that you get the real kind with the activator. Don't get the crap that air dries. It wont hold up the same.

EDIT 2: I meant to also say that if you want to spend $70 you can buy a new fosgate R1S410 sub which is the newer better replacement for the 1410.

matt852

Thanks I think I will just buy a new one instead of going through the trouble and having to repair it later on is this brand a good subwoofer brand?
I don't have any idea about subwoofers at all.

I'm planning on installing one 10 inch in my two door and I think that would be good enough also don't want to give up anymore room.
I was also given these Resolution R6 mid subwoofers 4 Ohm by Kicker by the my friend also they look like they would fit right into the sound bar. Is it safe to just replace the speakers in the sound bar with these? They are the exact same size and look like the same type of speaker.

bigbluejk

Dont put subwoofers in the soundbar. If you upgrade the speakers in the soundbar you may start to get some buzzing. I put some crossfire 6.5s in my soundbar and added dynomat to counteract the buzz from the lower tones. The main reason not to do that is that you want full range speakers in the soundbar, not subwoofers that can only replicate lower tones. If for some reason you did that you would want a low pass filter to stop the higher tones from damaging them.

Any sub you add will make sound better. Do you have an amp? You will need one for any sub. Get one with a built in crossover if you want to keep the install cheap and easy. I have a fosgate P3 loaded in a factory enclosure right now. Takes up little room and sounds ok. If I did it over I would use a thinner JL sub. Make sure you get an enclosure that has the proper air space for whatever sub you choose.

Some guys on here really like the infinity powered enclosure. It has the amp built in. a 10" sub and a passive radiator. Pretty easy to install and cheap option. I don't really care for the bass pod type things myself but I am picky. lol.

matt852

I found that the other speakers I have are mid range subs. The mid range subs come with two tweeters and two crossovers



So I guess those are useless for the JK except the tweeters?

I have a barebones X so I don't have the factory sub enclosure in the back, I'll just use an aftermarket enclosure, don't have an amp yet I will go with that P1S410 at 4 ohm if I go with something a similar price like the P1S810 at 8 Ohm will I need a different amp? What does the Ohm mean?

bigbluejk

Those are not really subs. Those are components. The boxes are crossovers that seperate the sounds. They send high tones to the tweets and lows to the drivers. You could put them in the soundbar, but I would put those in the dash. Reason is that you can put those tweets in your toombstones on top of the dash. The dash also has small sealed enclosures for the 6.5's that handle lower tones better. The front channels get more bass from the head unit also. You may have to use a couple small pieces of dynomat if you get buzzing, but it isnt as likely in the front. Those would likely be a nice upgrade up there. They can also handle more wattage if you add a multi-channel amp later. They will actually even sound better with more power.

The ohm on a speaker is impedance. The only thing you really need to concern yourself with is if you buy an amp and sub combo you dont have a sub that does not have a lower impedance than your amp is rated for. For example lets say you have an amp that says it is stable down to 2ohms... You have a couple options in sub. Most amps get hotter with lower impedance loads but produce more power. The way to get most power from that amp would be to take a 4ohm dual voice coil sub and wire it in parallel to the bridged amp if it is 2 channel. That would make a 2ohm load. If you want less power and a cooler running amp you could use a dual voice coil 2ohm sub and run the coils in series to the amp. That would give you a 4ohm load. Dual 4 in series is a 8ohm load. If you put a dual 2 ohm in parallel then you get a 1ohm load and would exceed that amps ability. You would likely have sound clipping and overheating. If you buy a lower end sub it will have only one voice coil and whatever that coil is rated at will be your load on the amp unless you use another sub. If you use a second sub treat it like the dual voice coil situation described above.

I dont know what type of money you are wanting to spend, but if you want to build a powerful system that you can hear clearly at interstate speed with the top and doors off (my goal btw) you might want to get a 5 channel amp or a 4 channel and a sub amp. Alpine makes a 5 channel that will fit inside the dash under your steering column. It would power your front speakers and soundbar and sub. Those kickers would be great up front and I would use a good 2-way 6.5 in the soundbar. Then sub of your choice in the rear. You def dont have to do all that.

matt852

Wow lots of good info I will replace the ones in the dash with the kickers for now and I'll take a look at the 5 channel you are talking about, so with the five channel I will be able to use an 4 ohm sub as well as run my kickers a lot better? I'm looking to spend about $350 total for a sub, enclosure, amp and labor is covered by my friend. I also want to be able to hear my music with the doors and top off at highway speeds. For an amp I will pay as much as $200

I really intended to just put in the sub and the kickers.

So with my kickers in the dash I can just swap out the factory ones and be fine? I would only need to use the crossovers if I install the tweets?

bigbluejk

Use the crossovers. Those mids are made to handle tones in a certain range. You do not want to give it full sound. It will sound crappy and maybe damage them. The crossovers are very easy to hook up. Just run your speaker wire into the input, then run speaker wire from the mid out on the x-over to the speaker. You should think about installing those tweets up top too. Those look like old RS components. They are actually really good speakers. Lots of old school guys love them. They have good sound without sounding too bright.

Your budget is gonna keep you from getting that amp I mentioned. The infinity basslink II might be a good sub solution for you. It has amp sub and box all in one. It will also fit in the stock sub location. Amazon.com has them for $239. amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-Basslink-II-Subwoofer/dp/B000A6GK4E . Main reason I am suggesting that is your budget. It will be real hard to get that much bass for that amount of cash. You would have to get an enclosure, sub, and amp. You could go much larger subs if you get individual parts but you will also lose all storage space.

If I was wanting to build in that budget and did not know how to build my own enclosures I would get the basslink II, kicker ds 650 2-way for the soundbar, ($40.10 at amazon amazon.com/Kicker-DS650-6-1-50W-Speaker/dp/B000ZM38S4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1283954301&sr =1-1), and a small 4 channel amp for the front. That only leaves about $80 in the budget so the options are small. You might want to save up a tiny bit more if you can. but amazon has a mb quart for $88.

matt852

You have been a ton of help thanks yeah I found that 5 channel costs a lot of money so I think I will save up a little more before I do anything my friend just gave me an enclosure for 1 ten inch and its about a foot deep.

chipmaker

If you were not on a budget, would you still use those kicker 2 ways in the soundbar, or another 2 way??
Also, how much difference do the upgraded soundbar speakers make to the driver and front seat passengers?