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Speaker/Amp upgrade, stock HU, LOC or not?

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Old 07-10-2013 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
jkmunz's Avatar
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From: OC, CA
Default Speaker/Amp upgrade, stock HU, LOC or not?

I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.

So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:

Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar

500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier

1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)


I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.

Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?


Thanks!
Old 07-13-2013 | 01:47 PM
  #2  
Design's Avatar
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From: North Central Texas
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Bumping because I would like to know too. Really interested in a RCA converter but not sure which one or if it even makes a difference.
Old 07-13-2013 | 02:21 PM
  #3  
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by jkmunz
I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.

So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:

Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar

500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier

1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)


I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.

Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?


Thanks!
Do you have the infinity system? I think either way you would need the LS6I or similar interface for fade control depending on how many sets of inputs your amp has. The infinity system has EQ, balance, fade and volume controlled by the factory amp via a digital signal from the head unit. If you have the non infinity system you could run a loc off the front speakers or run the front speakers wires strait to your amp. ( assuming it has high level inputs and your not concerned about fade control, unless it has multiple inputs ) I believe a 2 channel loc would work if your amp has multiple inputs for front and rear. For the infinity you would still be using the factory amp for all your controls, but bear in mind the factory amp uses a high pass crossover for the soundbar so it has no bass. The non infinity does not do this and you would be just fine. I have heard cheap loc's diminish sound quality a bit. You don't have the alpine system do you?
Old 07-13-2013 | 03:55 PM
  #4  
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 553
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From: Atlanta, GA
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Originally Posted by jkmunz
I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.

So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:

Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar

500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier

1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)


I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.

Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?


Thanks!
I use the stock head unit, and I think my system sounds great. First off, don't use db651 speakers up front, get the db6501 components. You'll want the new tweeter and crossover, and you don't want coaxial speakers pointing to your knees.

I run a 4 channel pioneer amp that accepts speaker level inputs via the RCA adapters that came with the amp. (requires flipping a switch that tells the amp it's a speaker input). Each speaker output from the head unit gets an adapter, and I rewired all the speakers with 16ga wiring coming straight from the amp. Some will tell you that you need to get as close to the head unit as possible for the adapters, but I grabbed the fronts right where it connects to the speaker pods, and the rears under the B-pillar by the seatbelt mount

I have a separate amp which powers the same JL sub you mentioned. I have a 4 door so I made a custom box which sits partially under the rear seat and fires down over the driveshaft hump. Sounds great with top/doors off due to it's location. I installed a control knob for the sub amplifier that allows me to control the input level on the fly (I listen to country, rap, and jam bands... each needs a different level)

*Edit- As mentioned in the above post, using all four channels for input will allow to to control balance and fade. Also, I have the stock, non-infinity system.

Last edited by Patman; 07-13-2013 at 03:58 PM.




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