Speaker/Amp upgrade, stock HU, LOC or not?
#1
Speaker/Amp upgrade, stock HU, LOC or not?
I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
#3
I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
#4
I have searched for hours on this forum and others and haven't been able to find a definitive answer so i hope you all can help because i am confused.
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
So I am planning on upgrading the sound system with all this:
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" For both the front and sound bar
500MRXV70 Alpine MRX-V70 90W x 4 + 350 x 1 Car Amplifier
1368W1V24 JL Audio 8W1v2-4 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (x2)
I was told that I could just run the speaker wire straight from the stock head unit to the amp input, no LOC needed.
Is this the way to do it? Or should I get a LOC? If so, do I just go with 2 cheap two-line out converters, or should I get something like the audiocontrol LS6i?
Thanks!
I run a 4 channel pioneer amp that accepts speaker level inputs via the RCA adapters that came with the amp. (requires flipping a switch that tells the amp it's a speaker input). Each speaker output from the head unit gets an adapter, and I rewired all the speakers with 16ga wiring coming straight from the amp. Some will tell you that you need to get as close to the head unit as possible for the adapters, but I grabbed the fronts right where it connects to the speaker pods, and the rears under the B-pillar by the seatbelt mount
I have a separate amp which powers the same JL sub you mentioned. I have a 4 door so I made a custom box which sits partially under the rear seat and fires down over the driveshaft hump. Sounds great with top/doors off due to it's location. I installed a control knob for the sub amplifier that allows me to control the input level on the fly (I listen to country, rap, and jam bands... each needs a different level)
*Edit- As mentioned in the above post, using all four channels for input will allow to to control balance and fade. Also, I have the stock, non-infinity system.
Last edited by Patman; 07-13-2013 at 03:58 PM.