Questions about Medium sized system install, need suggestions for AWG and schematics
04-05-2012, 08:10 PM
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JK Super Freak
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Questions about Medium sized system install, need suggestions for AWG and schematics
Ok, so here is the run down...
I am putting in a system and I want to do as much work as I can myself...
I am going to have the box custom made to specs from JL for the subs.
Some of the equipment is older but I have all of it...
I have some questions for the audio Gurus that I hope I can get answered... I REALLY WANT TO STAY ON TOPIC HERE... I know that everyone wants to throw in their 2 cents about what sounds better or what will work better but the equipment is not changing and never will change I just want help/suggestions for wiring it up and so on... PLEASE STAY ON TOPIC!!!
Right now the electrical is 100% stock.
The Head Unit is a Eclipse AVN5435
here is the specs on it: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_099AVN5435/Eclipse-AVN5435.html?search=AVN5435&tp=20212
Up front speakers are going to be: MM6501's
here are the specs: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_107MM6501/Polk-Audio-MM6501.html?search=mm6501&skipvs=T
For the roll speakers are matching: MM651's
here are the specs on them: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_107MM651/Polk-Audio-MM651.html?showAll=N&search=mm651&avf=N&skipvs=T
I am going to be powering those speakers with: Alpine DPX-4.100m
Here are the specs on the amp: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_500X4100M/Alpine-PDX-4-100M.html?search=Alpine_PDX_4.100m&skipvs=T
I have 25 sq feet of FATMAT "Rattle Trap":
Specs on this stuff can be found here: w w w. fatmat.com/bulk/rattletrap/25.html
I also have 3 massive bags of Polyfil that I will be stuffing the pods and the rollbar with.
Subs 3x 12w6v.1's (old, but I had them refoamed and cleaned up real nice)
Here are the specs on the subs: http:// mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8_12W6_BDS.pdf?1317790304
and they will be getting power from at Alpine V12 1507 Amp... This thing is old school too... Type AB - and will be pushing 900wrms at 4 ohms bridged... max 1500w at 4ohms the fuse in the amp is 80 amps... and its a monster sized amp (like 2 feet long) I have had it for a long time and its been super stable and drives like a demolition derby driver... fast and hard as hell...
Specs on the amp can be found here: w w w. carsound.com/reviews/amps/Alpine_MRV-1507.html
Here is a quick run down of the idea... Run power to the 4.100 under the steering column. I plan on mounting it nearly where the stock amp fits but I will have to build some sort of bracket to hold it in place. I will have it so that if I need to remove the plastic under the steering column and take the faceplate off the amp to make changes but when its buttoned up no one can see it at all... it also keeps it up off the floor that sometimes gets wet...
I have custom RCA's being soldered to length so there is no coils or anything, they are fully shielded and will be heat shrank and so on so they are very well protected... the run from the head unit to the 4 chan amp is going to be about 2-3 feet...
First question:
I do not know yet if I need to upgrade the wiring to all the speakers... I have some good speaker cable I could use but if the stock wiring is ok, then maybe its worth it to save a ton of time and effort going with the stock wiring rather then wiring it all up my self...
I plan on matting the roll bar and pods like crazy and stuffing as much poly as I can in there too... set the cross overs and run the amp off of battery direct with an inline fuse...
Second question: What size fuse should I run near the battery for this amp?
The amp itself takes 2 30A fuses but I should have a quickblow fuse near the battery to protect it even more right??
Next question:
The Alpine stuff is measured/rated out at 14.4 Volts ... is the jeep going to be able to maintain 14.4 VOLTS to the amp in the dash...
On top of that, will the jeep be able to keep 14.4 to the fatty amp in the trunk too ?? Should I end up putting a power cap in for now before the Sub amp ?? or should I do a power cap in place before Both amps and run them both off of the stored power in the cap instead of the battery ??
Should I run a fuse before or after the Cap if I use a Cap ??
I was thinking about using a power distribution block so I can run one power though the fire wall... and then break out to power both amps... and ground each amp separate...
More questions... What AWG should I be running for these amps... I am thinking this is a lot of draw on the wires with all of this running at once... So I am going to need big AWG... (low number) but the specs for the amps in the manuals say 2 different things... the PDX says its ok with 4-6awg and the 1507 says use AWG thicker then 6, but then in another part of the user guide says 8awg or thicker...
I am thinking I should run 2awg from the battery into the tub, then a power distribution block breaking that 2awg into 2x4awg
As far as I understand to measure this out though I should be running even thicker based off of some of the websites that calculate total (RMS x 2) /13.5 or something like that...
I really want to keep it at 14.4 VOLTS to get the most out of the system...
At some point I am going to upgrade the alternator to a MEANGREEN HP-Alternator: specs are here: http://www.quadratec.com/products/55112_5011.htm
and I am hoping to put in one of the Sears DieHard Platinums before that because those things are pretty Heavy Duty as far as batteries go...
The subs are going in a custom build enclosure built to spec on the subs... 3 down firing and sealed... its all going to be covered with a security shroud that is bolted up to the seat frame/locked to the seatbelt bolts... also the shroud is going to make everything flush against the back seat and wheel wells and its all getting line-xed along with the tub...
kinda madness I know...
but I really hope someone can help me out with the AWG sizes, the places to put in line fuses... some help with the decision on a power cap or not... and some help with wiring setups and what have you....
All the gear is staying the exact same... I am not changing anything equipment wise... I just need help/advice with wiring and technical stuff...
Thank you in advance...
I am putting in a system and I want to do as much work as I can myself...
I am going to have the box custom made to specs from JL for the subs.
Some of the equipment is older but I have all of it...
I have some questions for the audio Gurus that I hope I can get answered... I REALLY WANT TO STAY ON TOPIC HERE... I know that everyone wants to throw in their 2 cents about what sounds better or what will work better but the equipment is not changing and never will change I just want help/suggestions for wiring it up and so on... PLEASE STAY ON TOPIC!!!
Right now the electrical is 100% stock.
The Head Unit is a Eclipse AVN5435
here is the specs on it: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_099AVN5435/Eclipse-AVN5435.html?search=AVN5435&tp=20212
Up front speakers are going to be: MM6501's
here are the specs: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_107MM6501/Polk-Audio-MM6501.html?search=mm6501&skipvs=T
For the roll speakers are matching: MM651's
here are the specs on them: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_107MM651/Polk-Audio-MM651.html?showAll=N&search=mm651&avf=N&skipvs=T
I am going to be powering those speakers with: Alpine DPX-4.100m
Here are the specs on the amp: w w w. crutchfield.com/p_500X4100M/Alpine-PDX-4-100M.html?search=Alpine_PDX_4.100m&skipvs=T
I have 25 sq feet of FATMAT "Rattle Trap":
Specs on this stuff can be found here: w w w. fatmat.com/bulk/rattletrap/25.html
I also have 3 massive bags of Polyfil that I will be stuffing the pods and the rollbar with.
Subs 3x 12w6v.1's (old, but I had them refoamed and cleaned up real nice)
Here are the specs on the subs: http:// mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8_12W6_BDS.pdf?1317790304
and they will be getting power from at Alpine V12 1507 Amp... This thing is old school too... Type AB - and will be pushing 900wrms at 4 ohms bridged... max 1500w at 4ohms the fuse in the amp is 80 amps... and its a monster sized amp (like 2 feet long) I have had it for a long time and its been super stable and drives like a demolition derby driver... fast and hard as hell...
Specs on the amp can be found here: w w w. carsound.com/reviews/amps/Alpine_MRV-1507.html
Here is a quick run down of the idea... Run power to the 4.100 under the steering column. I plan on mounting it nearly where the stock amp fits but I will have to build some sort of bracket to hold it in place. I will have it so that if I need to remove the plastic under the steering column and take the faceplate off the amp to make changes but when its buttoned up no one can see it at all... it also keeps it up off the floor that sometimes gets wet...
I have custom RCA's being soldered to length so there is no coils or anything, they are fully shielded and will be heat shrank and so on so they are very well protected... the run from the head unit to the 4 chan amp is going to be about 2-3 feet...
First question:
I do not know yet if I need to upgrade the wiring to all the speakers... I have some good speaker cable I could use but if the stock wiring is ok, then maybe its worth it to save a ton of time and effort going with the stock wiring rather then wiring it all up my self...
I plan on matting the roll bar and pods like crazy and stuffing as much poly as I can in there too... set the cross overs and run the amp off of battery direct with an inline fuse...
Second question: What size fuse should I run near the battery for this amp?
The amp itself takes 2 30A fuses but I should have a quickblow fuse near the battery to protect it even more right??
Next question:
The Alpine stuff is measured/rated out at 14.4 Volts ... is the jeep going to be able to maintain 14.4 VOLTS to the amp in the dash...
On top of that, will the jeep be able to keep 14.4 to the fatty amp in the trunk too ?? Should I end up putting a power cap in for now before the Sub amp ?? or should I do a power cap in place before Both amps and run them both off of the stored power in the cap instead of the battery ??
Should I run a fuse before or after the Cap if I use a Cap ??
I was thinking about using a power distribution block so I can run one power though the fire wall... and then break out to power both amps... and ground each amp separate...
More questions... What AWG should I be running for these amps... I am thinking this is a lot of draw on the wires with all of this running at once... So I am going to need big AWG... (low number) but the specs for the amps in the manuals say 2 different things... the PDX says its ok with 4-6awg and the 1507 says use AWG thicker then 6, but then in another part of the user guide says 8awg or thicker...
I am thinking I should run 2awg from the battery into the tub, then a power distribution block breaking that 2awg into 2x4awg
As far as I understand to measure this out though I should be running even thicker based off of some of the websites that calculate total (RMS x 2) /13.5 or something like that...
I really want to keep it at 14.4 VOLTS to get the most out of the system...
At some point I am going to upgrade the alternator to a MEANGREEN HP-Alternator: specs are here: http://www.quadratec.com/products/55112_5011.htm
and I am hoping to put in one of the Sears DieHard Platinums before that because those things are pretty Heavy Duty as far as batteries go...
The subs are going in a custom build enclosure built to spec on the subs... 3 down firing and sealed... its all going to be covered with a security shroud that is bolted up to the seat frame/locked to the seatbelt bolts... also the shroud is going to make everything flush against the back seat and wheel wells and its all getting line-xed along with the tub...
kinda madness I know...
but I really hope someone can help me out with the AWG sizes, the places to put in line fuses... some help with the decision on a power cap or not... and some help with wiring setups and what have you....
All the gear is staying the exact same... I am not changing anything equipment wise... I just need help/advice with wiring and technical stuff...
Thank you in advance...
Last edited by joey2times; 04-06-2012 at 03:52 AM.
04-05-2012, 10:23 PM
#2
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Denver, CO
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I'm sure you mean 14.4 VOLTS, not amps, since this is the typical voltage you'll get from your electrical system while the car is running.
You need to figure the max continuous amperage draw from your amps to figure the size of your wire. Can't check specs on your amps because your links are bad. To find amps from your wattage ratings, use I=P/E. So for example, let's say you'll have a peak of 2000 watts. 2000W/14.4V=138A max draw. 1AWG wire is good for around 150A depending on insulation type. Wherever you'll get your wire from should be able to tell you the ampacity of the wire, so you can choose the proper size. Choose your fuse size according the the amp draw of your amps, and put it as close to the battery as you can, maybe within 18". Make sure your ground wire is terminated really well also.
You need to figure the max continuous amperage draw from your amps to figure the size of your wire. Can't check specs on your amps because your links are bad. To find amps from your wattage ratings, use I=P/E. So for example, let's say you'll have a peak of 2000 watts. 2000W/14.4V=138A max draw. 1AWG wire is good for around 150A depending on insulation type. Wherever you'll get your wire from should be able to tell you the ampacity of the wire, so you can choose the proper size. Choose your fuse size according the the amp draw of your amps, and put it as close to the battery as you can, maybe within 18". Make sure your ground wire is terminated really well also.
04-06-2012, 03:45 AM
#3
JK Super Freak
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,016
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I'm sure you mean 14.4 VOLTS, not amps, since this is the typical voltage you'll get from your electrical system while the car is running.
You need to figure the max continuous amperage draw from your amps to figure the size of your wire. Can't check specs on your amps because your links are bad. To find amps from your wattage ratings, use I=P/E. So for example, let's say you'll have a peak of 2000 watts. 2000W/14.4V=138A max draw. 1AWG wire is good for around 150A depending on insulation type. Wherever you'll get your wire from should be able to tell you the ampacity of the wire, so you can choose the proper size. Choose your fuse size according the the amp draw of your amps, and put it as close to the battery as you can, maybe within 18". Make sure your ground wire is terminated really well also.
You need to figure the max continuous amperage draw from your amps to figure the size of your wire. Can't check specs on your amps because your links are bad. To find amps from your wattage ratings, use I=P/E. So for example, let's say you'll have a peak of 2000 watts. 2000W/14.4V=138A max draw. 1AWG wire is good for around 150A depending on insulation type. Wherever you'll get your wire from should be able to tell you the ampacity of the wire, so you can choose the proper size. Choose your fuse size according the the amp draw of your amps, and put it as close to the battery as you can, maybe within 18". Make sure your ground wire is terminated really well also.
The amps peak at 1500w and 400w so 1900w ... but I though it was more RMS that was the way to measure it.
I fixed the links... I think... So match the Fuses inline to the fuses on the actual amp? for the 4x100 its 2 30A fuses so ? use 60A fuse or a 30A fuse ?