Notices
JK Electrical, Lighting & Sound Systems Bulletin board forum regarding topics such as stereo head units, CD players, MP3 players, speaker systems, amplifiers, hardmounted GPS devices, computers, headlight upgrades, fog lights, off-road lights, general wiring and anti-theft devices.

Newbie Installer needs detailed instructions for ARB on Board wiring

Thread Tools
 
Old 06-18-2010, 05:05 PM
  #1  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
Voodoo11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Newbie Installer needs detailed instructions for ARB on Board wiring

I purchased the ARB on board air compressor from David last weekend. After studying the forum, the diagram, and having mounted the compressor, I am about the attempt the wiring hookup tomorrow.

I am new at this type of electrical work. The only succesful thing I've done so far is wire my CB to my battery and to a ground source. I have no experience splicing wires or "tapping" into other wires.

My local 4 way store told me I would need a 12v mini tap in for a fuse connection today. After picking up all the required stuff at pep boys, I'm good to go.

However, I know this might be an exercise in futility. Could someone please give me a step by step instruction on how to "Tap" other wires, "tap" the fuse box, and install this sucker?

I am using the compressor solely for airing tires but would like to save the option for air lockers down the road. I was told to use dialectric grease (?) and electrical tape on these wires.

I also noticed there are three wirings to switch1, switch 2, and isolation switch. Am I to use the isolation switch?

Lastly, I don't have a daystar switch panel so any advice on where to mount the ARB switch and how to do this would be greatly appreciated.

I owe you lots of for those who can help.

Thanks in advanced.
Old 06-18-2010, 05:56 PM
  #2  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
Voodoo11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

BTT -

ANY help/tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Old 06-18-2010, 06:22 PM
  #3  
JK Super Freak
 
STUPIDFACE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I first mounted the compressor using a bracket that connects to the bolts for the master cylinder. Once i had it mounted, i unrolled the supplied wiring harness and laid it across the engine compartment along the fire wall. When you mount the compressor near the drivers side of the engine compartment, the wiring harness lays out perfect to make the connections. Once you lay the harness out, its pretty easy to connect. The switches, i dont remember what i did. I dont know if this is going to help you, but i tried, right?

corey d
Old 06-18-2010, 07:14 PM
  #4  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
Voodoo11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by STUPIDFACE
I first mounted the compressor using a bracket that connects to the bolts for the master cylinder. Once i had it mounted, i unrolled the supplied wiring harness and laid it across the engine compartment along the fire wall. When you mount the compressor near the drivers side of the engine compartment, the wiring harness lays out perfect to make the connections. Once you lay the harness out, its pretty easy to connect. The switches, i dont remember what i did. I dont know if this is going to help you, but i tried, right?

corey d
Thanks! This is helpful! Do you know anything about "tapping" into wires and fuses?

I figured out based on WOL's write up that the "isolation" switch is used for the air compressor. I'm going to give it a go tomorrow morning and will let you know how it goes.
Old 06-18-2010, 07:39 PM
  #5  
JK Freak
 
river2c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I followed WOL's writeup exactly from Project JK until I got to the missing steps for the ignition and dash light connections. This is what I did and it worked great. I used a splice connector to attach the loose red/yellow wire (isolation switch) to the pink/blue wire (ignition hot) behind the driver's side power outlet. Then I used another splice connector to attach the loose blue/white wire (isolation switch) to the orange/gray wire (dash light) behind the temperature control knob. I had to partially take off the front dash panel to access the wires but it makes for a nice clean install. FYI, the pressure switch will shut off the compressor after a few seconds if the air hose is not connected. Hope this helps.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

Last edited by river2c; 06-18-2010 at 07:49 PM.
Old 06-18-2010, 08:02 PM
  #6  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
Voodoo11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by river2c
I followed WOL's writeup exactly from Project JK until I got to the missing steps for the ignition and dash light connections. This is what I did and it worked great. I used a splice connector to attach the loose red/yellow wire (isolation switch) to the pink/blue wire (ignition hot) behind the driver's side power outlet. Then I used another splice connector to attach the loose blue/white wire (isolation switch) to the orange/gray wire (dash light) behind the temperature control knob. I had to partially take off the front dash panel to access the wires but it makes for a nice clean install. FYI, the pressure switch will shut off the compressor after a few seconds if the air hose is not connected. Hope this helps.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up
Thanks! Both of these wires are behind the dash?
Old 06-18-2010, 08:58 PM
  #7  
JK Freak
 
river2c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yes, they are behind the dash panel. You don't have to take the dash panel completely off, just pull it back enough to get to the wires.
Old 06-18-2010, 09:16 PM
  #8  
JK Jedi
 
Sharkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ....
Posts: 4,798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I didn't bother with the dash light wiring. It's not necessary for operation of the compressor so if you don't want to hook it up it's no big deal. Follow WOL's write-up and the ARB wiring diagram for the switch and you will be fine. Just remember that the pressure switch will shut the compressor off after about 2 seconds if you don't have the air hose hooked up and dumping air into something. I swear I spent half a day trying to figure out what I screwed up before someone pointed this fact out to me.

Personally, I think running the ARB switch somewhere else in the dash (besides a Daystar panel) is going to be a bit of a PITA because you are going to have to cut a rectangular hole. I'm not saying it can't be done, it's just more work.

Also, some threads suggest pulling the locker wires out of the harness if you have a Rubi. I suggest leaving them in. If you upgrade to ARB lockers in the future you will already be good to go with the wiring.

Edit: had to fix some typos...it's late and I've had a few cocktails

Last edited by Sharkey; 06-18-2010 at 09:19 PM.
Old 06-19-2010, 09:09 AM
  #9  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
Voodoo11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the tips.

How do I "tap" into the wires? I bought a splice connector at radio shack but don't understand how to use it.

Have either of you mounted the ARB switch under the hood? If so, where?
Old 06-19-2010, 03:45 PM
  #10  
JK Jedi
 
Sharkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ....
Posts: 4,798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My "tap" came with the kit. I'm not sure why you had to buy a separate "tap" from the shack. Anyway, the are pretty simple. You both wires (i.e. The existing wire to be tapped plus the new wire) through the channels of the tap. Then you fold the tab over the top of the channels and crimp closed with some pliers, making sure the metal blade in the "tap" penetrates both wires. I hope that makes sense.

I've never seen someone mount the actual switch under the hood, but I guess it could be done.


Quick Reply: Newbie Installer needs detailed instructions for ARB on Board wiring



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:13 PM.