icycle

I'll start by saying I know nothing of audio/electronics. Last spring I bought a 8" Bazooka tube and amp off eBay for $10. After wiring etc. I have about $30.00 into it. I amazed myself when I actually got it working. That is until a few days ago.

I was driving for about 4hrs when the sub stopped working. I had it cranking pretty good on and off when I noticed no more bump in the trunk.

So heres what I did. Checked all fuses, amp getting power, fuses good. Took apart dash and checked where I spliced in the Line Output Converter (Schoshe brand or however its spelled), that was good. All wires seemed fine.
Amp is under the passenger seat and wasn't hot at all. Took apart tube and all wires there were connected, sub looked fine, nothing out of the ordinary.

I have no meter to use so I took a home theater speaker and attached wires that went to tube to it, got sound. This makes me believe the subwoofer has gone bad. I dont remember hearing anything out of the ordinary when it stopped working but it was 70+ mph in a soft top, I wasn't hearing much.

So I need assistance. Am I on the right track? is it probably the subwoofer?
Also, what type subwoofer should replace it? Quality isn't on the top of my list, I just want to hear a little more low end to my music, thats why I went low cost.

Here's the info I got on the amp and sub I have.
Subwoofer:
•Frequency Response: 39-150Hz
•Power Handling: 6-75 watts (150 watts peak power)
•Efficiency: 102dB
•Magnet Size: 28 ounces
•Weight: 15.5 pounds
•Dimensions: Length=18-3/16", Width=8-1/2", Height=10"

Amplifier:
•Output Power (@ 14.4 Volts D.C.):
◦At 4 ohms: 100 watts x 1
◦At 2 ohms: 150 watts x 1
◦Bridged: Not capable
◦Maximum: 250 watts x 1
•Frequency Response: 20Hz-130Hz
•Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >90dB
•THD (with 80k filter): 15%
•Line Input Level: 200mV-4V
•Battery Voltage Range: 10.5VDC-15.0VDC
•Dimensions: Width=8-5/8", Height=2-9/16", Depth=10.25"

Like I said I have no idea about watts, ohms etc... I'll probably end up at wally world getting a replacement but dont want something too weak or something the amp won't push.

I hope I can get an answer here. Thanks

chipmaker

If you connect another speaker in place of the speaker that has no sound and it works, it pretty much must be the speaker. Either blown or shorted... Get something from Walmart, if it sux, you can take it back...

icycle

That's what I was figuring. Now I just need to know what watt speaker to get to best match the amp.

robsjeep9

Just curious can your sub be easily taken apart??? If do don't replace the whole sub .... Save some money and just replace the speaker part inside the sub box. That's what I did.... It was easy and I just bought a better speaker to put inside the sub box. Rob

icycle

Yeah the speaker is already out. I just don't know what watt one to replace it with for my amp

jeep2007

Your best bet if you get a new sub is to get a 2ohm 100-150 RMS sub. This will allow the amp to work efficiently. Your ratings are at 14 volt, so a sub with a higher RMS rating could cause the amp to possibly over heat or the sub to loss a little control. Best of luck to you.

icycle

Thanks for the help guys. I have a little better idea of what to look for now