KC long range lights + Painless 7 Circuit block + Daystar 4 switch panel
#1
JK Newbie
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KC long range lights + Painless 7 Circuit block + Daystar 4 switch panel
Well I've searched through several of the posts and could not find the answer to my question so I'm starting a new one. We are trying to install all this stuff and have pretty much got the install on the fuse block figured out, the issue we're having is connecting the kc lights to all of this. There is a green wire, a white wire with an inline 3A fuse and a yellow wire with inline 25A fuse, all coming out of the relay. We pretty much know that the green wire is going to connect to the out terminal on the switch, but the yellow wire and white wire are stumping us. Per instructions for the lights the yellow wire would go to the battery and the white wire would connect from the in terminal on the switch to the stock fuse block or also to the battery. But since we have the painless fuse block would we splice them directly to the one of the auxiliary wires coming out of the painless fuse block and if so then do they both splice to one wire for a 3 way splice and then to the in terminal or would they each splice into separate ones leaving only the white wire to connect to the in terminal on the switch? last are we just totally wrong on our thinking? PLEASE HELP!! LOL!! A diagram would be most helpful. If I did it right here is a pic of what I was thinking originally.
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And I was wrong, the white wire is not coming out of the relay, This stuff is so confusing, anyway, the white wire was just included to connect the supply terminal on the switch to either the stock fuse box or directly to the battery per the instructions. The only wires coming out of the relay are the yellow (to battery), the green (to out terminal on the switch) and the black for ground, ugh!!
#6
In this situation, you could have the yellow from the relay go to a spot in your painless system (with a proper amp fuse)
The white come from your painless to the switch you're using for the lights (no need for the in-line fuse if you do this because the painless provides the fuse)
The biggest negative of the painless system is that it's made for much smaller devices. It has a lot of fuse slots but can only support 40 amps. Your KC lights are going to use 20 on their own.
The white come from your painless to the switch you're using for the lights (no need for the in-line fuse if you do this because the painless provides the fuse)
The biggest negative of the painless system is that it's made for much smaller devices. It has a lot of fuse slots but can only support 40 amps. Your KC lights are going to use 20 on their own.
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#8
Basically hook the whole thing up as the instructions say, but whatever it says connect to the battery, connect it to your painless system. And like I said, you can ditch the fuse in the white line if you do this because the painless system is giving you a fuse already
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Is this the wiring?
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/159253.pdf
I would take the yellow directly off the battery terminal rather than the "painless" since it has it's own 25 amp fuse. I don't have a "painless" but that's what I did.
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/159253.pdf
I would take the yellow directly off the battery terminal rather than the "painless" since it has it's own 25 amp fuse. I don't have a "painless" but that's what I did.