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KC- Hella- Etc... Lighting Choices????

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Old 12-27-2007, 07:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kntr
You could run the small Lightforce on the piller with the KC mount.

<snip>
The reasons for my choice was that I wanted the larger lights and I don't know that the LightForce would have fit without hitting the windshield. The mounts had to be Mopar because they place the lights lower and more to the outside. I really like the LightForce 240 series and the HIDs as well.
Old 01-16-2008, 02:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kntr
... I have run Lightforce lights on every off road vehicle Ive owned. ...
I'm intrigued by these. Since I'm in the market for lights for my Shrockworks mid-width (on order), these may be just the ticket. The video (watch video) is what sold me. But, has anyone tried the anti-theft nuts? They're rather expensive ($46.00), so is one per light sufficient? On occasion my JK is left parked at wilderness trailheads overnight, so I'd like to deter the would-be thief. I ask about how many because the vendor I'm looking at offers an option to buy one or two sets of nuts when buying a twin pack of lights.

Photo of theft-proof nuts here: off-roadlights.com/xcart/image.php?type=P&id=16195
Old 01-16-2008, 02:06 PM
  #23  
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You could always tack the nuts with a welder. More difficult for maintenance purposes, but greatly helps keep the thieves away.
Old 01-19-2008, 08:15 AM
  #24  
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I have 4 hella 550's on front bumper and 2 pia's on windshield brackets.
No experience with KC except that when I bought the 6" Pia's I actually started out with KC's.
I was at Desert Rat and went to mount them while I was there.
(They gave me the brackets BTW due to the lights are way over priced).
Well the KC's would not LOCK when mounted to brackets. I could easily turn them even though nut was torqued tight.
So they came out and looked and tech said he had that problem a lot in the past. I asked him why they don't warn folks?.... no answer....
So they swapped them out to hella's.
Same issue. Would not clamp securely. But price had dropped and my card had been credited the difference.
So they swapped them out for the PIA's. For same price as the hellas. pretty cool! Pia's for $120!!
Very nice! Solid and good looking. and they do beam on down the trail.
These are my high beams on the trail.
Their wiring kit was perfect to, tho instructions and assembly was a lot more complicated than it needed to be.
I set mine up for independant on/off regardless of Jeeps lights.
This might not be legal in your state as many require they be wired to turn on only when high beams are on, for safety...
High beams on disables fog lights on the Jeep so the heck with that.
Fog lights are down low and in front and ideal for crawl'n in the dark.

I got the hella 550's at checkers for $60 a pair. These also are set for down low right in front and wide to the side as well (for turns).
They work great too, but their wiring was a complete joke.
I just tossed all their crap and got a simple 2 way switch for $3 and used that instead of all their nonsense.
They come with a 15amp fuse for each pair. I used one 30amp fuse for all 4 instead. and wired all 4 to the one switch.

So now I have one switch for the high beam driving lights and one for the down low trailing lights.
Both switches are located just to left of steering wheel on plastic panel.
They are not visible except to driver.
One thing I don't like is that the PIA switch has the green LED ON when the lights are off.
?
lol
It's correct but I think lame.
The other switch is better IMHO as it turns on the red LED when lights are on.

It is possible to turn on my lights when Jeep is off the way I wired them.
I guess you could have them on in day light and not know it? Kill your battery?

Mounting hellas to the stock plastic thru the sheet metal under it on the bumper is a piece of cake.
And as long as you don't go plowing your bumper into stuff;
(the reason we add lights is so we DON'T go plowing our bumpers into stuff);
they are quite solid and work very well.
The ones out by the fenders need to be postioned so the bumper can ride up toward the fender without hitting the light.
It would be easy to position them to far back and then crunch them when flexing.

The ugly part of the whole install was removing the plastic air dams.
They use those damned plastic flare inserts and they would not for the most part remove cleanly.
So I just dug them out and twisted them off with a sturdy pair of needle nose.
If I decide to replace the air dam I will just get some new inserts from dealer.
But so far I'm liking the Jeep without that crap and thinking about modding a front skid plate on instead.
I had the same issue with the plastic top plate between bumper and front grill.
pffft.
That one I will definately replace as it helps the look of the Jeep I think.


One issue I did have is one of the hella clamp bolts broke.
I mean it never even got tight.
CHINEESE CRAP!
I happened to have a wierd curved headed bolt that locked up nicely so wasn't a biggy for me.
The supplied bolts have a formed locking tab that goes into a slot in the bracket to prevent turning as you tighten them.
I always horde all bolts and screws and washers I ever come accross as at some point I will need them I just know.
So I It went well for me due to I happened to have the replacement bolt.

It seems like everything anymore is made out of chineese crap and is ment to need replacement/modification etc. before it actually works.
Enron rules the world now?
Liars and thieves run everything.
Watch your ass and allow 2 months for any install.....

LOL

Anyway its not only really really nice to have lights on the trail at night.
It looks good around town too.
The 6" PIA's mount up inborad of the Jeep body but don't take up much of the viewable area.
I think the Mopar brackets end up givving you outboard mounted lights and maybe some atenna issues?

I will be adding rear cargo lights this year some time for when I trailer my camping rig.
I'll prolly end up with 2 of the 550's set up with the long direction going vertically.
Attached to my hard top out near edges near top side so window and gerry cans are still all good.
For me this will work as I never remove the hard top. Thats why we have freedom tops.
Here in Arizona it's either way too hot with evil sun or its way to cold. So the top stays on for me.


Have fun out there and make it home eh?

Last edited by LinkSync; 01-19-2008 at 08:38 AM.
Old 01-19-2008, 09:35 AM
  #25  
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i have the 240s on the front of my jeep. They blow everything else away....i mean not even close. I run the blue filter with the combo pattern and the lighting is just ridiculous. you would never need the plain clear spot beam pattern unless you were somewhere in the outback where its extremely flat. even with the combo pattern, i dont need that much distance....its just crazy. Do yourself a favor and get the lightforce lights.
Old 01-19-2008, 09:41 AM
  #26  
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Anyone running the IPF 900 XS drives or spots? I like the pricing of those. I have always run PIAA, but they do cost a fortune. Any thoughts?
Old 01-19-2008, 01:12 PM
  #27  
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I have been very pleased with my piaa lights.
The 510s are a good fit for the windshied mounts. They are small and compact and don't rust. They put my factory high beams to shame.
Aren't IPF lights made by PIAA???
Old 01-19-2008, 01:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by A'sJK
Aren't IPF lights made by PIAA???
I believe that IPF is made by ARB.
Old 01-19-2008, 02:18 PM
  #29  
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Has anybody had any expierence with the WARN light system?
Old 01-19-2008, 06:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 150
Has anybody had any expierence with the WARN light system?
I have warn SDB-210 HB's on the front of my blazer. D@mn near unbreakable! bashed then with tree branches and NOTHING happened! did a test fit in the JK..... seemed WAY too bulky for it, IMO.

Last edited by The Joker; 01-19-2008 at 06:23 PM.


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