I agree with that adding the sPOD will do absolutely nothing for the problems you're having...all it does is clean up wiring, the power is still being pulled from the battery regardless of the sPOD or no sPOD.

The sPOD doesn't make any kind of fire hazard, unless you're trying to pull 180+ amps from the battery. Even at that, you wouldn't be able to due to the main circuit breaker in the + line a couple inches off the battery connection.

The sPOD costs so much due to the high quality parts used in it, and the high level design of the streamlining of the circuits, period. Sure, you could go out and purchase high amperage fuse blocks, but you would also have to do your homework and labor on sourcing the additional wires, relays, and switches to make everything work. People are willing to pay for a well-engineered, extremely well made product that they don't have to worry about fooling around with electrical schematics and whatnot. If you call up the "sPOD guy" and talk with John, he can give you some interesting facts on the thoughfulness that went into the design of it, but here's one that most people probably don't know...the wire loom used in their kits is an extremely high quality specially wound loom that's actually wound onto the wires after they have been all laid out in their final configurations, and sealed at each end. This provides a very very durable, snug, and clean fit...again, high quality. I'll agree that this isn't for everybody, but for people like me who are perfectionists...it's a great way to make sure everything is clean in the engine compartment, and one of the biggest benefits is the ease of which you can hook up electrical accessories without having to mess around with trying to figure how to add additional wires, fuses, relays, and switches.

Oh, and I believe the relays are absolutely fine under the hood, as they are pretty durable units with very few moving parts, and sealed too.

Just my 2 cents...

 

I dunno, its simple & elegant and NOT a hosey mess of wires. Start pricing switches, relays, bezel, breakers...etc-- it adds up FAST...And then you have to put it all together and make it look nice. I know I *CAN* do electrical...but after years of goofing with the stuff- I still aint had it come out looking THAT nice: so rather than the headache & the hassle of ME going through it-- I just bought one

But 6 switches at $12/each...... thats just for starters

 

Ok, not to stoke the fire here. But I know it's going to...

I understand the "clean" aspect that people are getting at. But a "professional" level install would/should look NOTHING like these examples anyway, or use such shitty equipment. I wouldn't even wire up some junk go-kart with the stuff in these pics.

Things like this set cars on fire.

[QUOTE=Rubirock;600916]



My biggest gripe is, unless you're going to use EVERY one of those switches $435 isn't worth it IMO. And even then... I'd be hard pressed to push that on a customer. I prefer clean and stealthy installs. Clean the sPod is, but big switch pods are never low-key looking.

My last 2cents. If you're driving a manual and going through the mountains at night and have sketchy driving conditions (rain, snow, icy, animals, etc). Are you going to reach above your head to kill your lights for oncoming traffic, or keep your hand on the shifter. There's a reason why light switches are put right near the steering wheel.


OK, burn away. I'm done ranting on it.

 

Iam planning to have 8 100watts in front and 2 in the back, and i wanted to see if thats okay to run if the engine is running? or is it too much? if yes wat should i do?

 

i stand corrected. i was just happy that i retained something useful from college. even if i didn't remember the the name corrrectly

 

if you are planning on running all of them at the same time, then that is 1000 watts or 83 amps. on 160 amps alt (dont know what yours is rated but i'll use this for example) that is over half of the output of the alt for your aux lights. then you add in your stock lights (headlights 55 watts,fogs 35? watts) and anything else that is running (radio, amp etc...) you get the idea.

in conclusion i would think no, it would not be advisable with a 160 amps (if that is what you have) alt to run all the lights at the same time.

 

Thanks for the reply, yeah i have fogs and i have a 2500watt subwoofer running on a 2.5 (forgot the unit) external battery if thats what they call it.
So what do you advise me to do, i really love all the lights.

 

LOL! I'm reminded of the immortal...one man's dream is another man's nightmare...

I too balked at first at the price of one of these things: but as said- check into the prices for every part they got going and you're really not paying THAt much for someone else to build it up for you.

I have no idea if the equipment in the pic you re-posted is shitty equipment or not: no specs from the OP were provided-- but that mess is EXACTLY what I wanna avoid....not due to fire concerns per se (but they are there) but I'm tired of looking at my other rig's hoaky wiring jobs over the years.

I cant speak for everyone-- but I know I've already got all six switches on the sPod spoken for and am looking for more

I hear ya' and am mostly long the same lines in thinking....heck though-- I miss the OLD style of hi/low switch ON THE FLOOR: The lights I'm running up top are NOT street legal so having to switch them on/off alot shouldn't be much issue: they're either On for off road or off & covered on-road......but as for riding around wih your hand on the shifter.........alotttttttttta transmissions dont like that and can/will (on some) wear parts sooner than need be if ya' just keep your hand OFF the shifter and BOTH hands On The Steering Wheel (where they belong)

 

I am working on it... I'll let you know about the outcome. (So far $135 including the switches, relays, fuses, a possibly interesting main unit [found something called a "lock and lock" air-tight and waterproof 'tupper-ware' container] and my secret weapon for a master switch [sort of a 2 to 1 diode]...)

 

Good luck...I gave up after one tooooo many a electical parts site...drove me nucking futts I've said it on many a thread-- Sometimes you gotta look at the cost vs. time aspect. There is some crossover point where my time (free time or work time) is more valuable to me than spending hours looking for parts to piece-meal something together....especially when I know my own patience level to tolerate (my own BS) asssembling something AND making it look good.

But if you can do it- Go for it! I LOVE the DIY route when it works... if you can do- PLEASE provide a parts list...or heck- start making them CHEAP and I'll be one of your first customers