Fog lights w/ high beams?
08-21-2008, 09:29 PM
#21
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ok i rarely, if ever, use high beams. city streets and anywhere where there are other cars i dont touch em at all.
low beams w/ fogs lit is ample light. aimed properly, they dont jack peoples' eyes up. well except for the ricers
that i pull up behind at a red light- but im not losing sleep over 'em
what i was talking about was a small empty road in the middle of the woods
which i was traveling 50 mph down. there were hills and such that made
visibility sketchy. when i tried the high beams for better distance/coverage
there had to be somewhere around 40% lighting loss due to the fogs turning
off and highs only.
was a little scary.
now i hope people know that if you're approaching a hill and the top of it is glowing, that means an
approaching car is coming- or a UFO!
its prudent, wise, and mandatory to flip your lights to low beams.
besides, i mentioned a small toggle to disable running fogs w/high beams in situations such that require it.
low beams w/ fogs lit is ample light. aimed properly, they dont jack peoples' eyes up. well except for the ricers
that i pull up behind at a red light- but im not losing sleep over 'em
what i was talking about was a small empty road in the middle of the woods
which i was traveling 50 mph down. there were hills and such that made
visibility sketchy. when i tried the high beams for better distance/coverage
there had to be somewhere around 40% lighting loss due to the fogs turning
off and highs only.
was a little scary. now i hope people know that if you're approaching a hill and the top of it is glowing, that means an
approaching car is coming- or a UFO!
its prudent, wise, and mandatory to flip your lights to low beams. besides, i mentioned a small toggle to disable running fogs w/high beams in situations such that require it.
At 50mph anything you see with the fogs, you just hit.
Another reason the fogs don't come on with the high beams is you actually see worse at a long distance. Your eyes adjust to the bright lights in front of the jeep which makes it harder to see the lower amount of light way out in the distance. An extreme example is driving with the dome light on. Your eyes adjust to the light around them, not what's going on a couple hundred yards down the road. (Dimming the over bright dash lights will help also.)
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Steve Clem (08-29-2018)
08-22-2008, 08:34 AM
#23
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At 50mph anything you see with the fogs, you just hit.
Another reason the fogs don't come on with the high beams is you actually see worse at a long distance. Your eyes adjust to the bright lights in front of the jeep which makes it harder to see the lower amount of light way out in the distance. An extreme example is driving with the dome light on. Your eyes adjust to the light around them, not what's going on a couple hundred yards down the road. (Dimming the over bright dash lights will help also.)
Another reason the fogs don't come on with the high beams is you actually see worse at a long distance. Your eyes adjust to the bright lights in front of the jeep which makes it harder to see the lower amount of light way out in the distance. An extreme example is driving with the dome light on. Your eyes adjust to the light around them, not what's going on a couple hundred yards down the road. (Dimming the over bright dash lights will help also.)
Blue is the worst color to choose since the human eye has a hard time seeing it, your eyes dialate more for blue.
This is why most german cars use red lights for all thier dashes and why airplanes all use red dash lights.
That damn blue light probably decreases your night vision more then the fog lights would.
The "Export" setting in the computer is only availibe for 08's, I have an 07 and the dealer could not find the setting anywhere.
08-22-2008, 06:56 PM
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09-15-2008, 04:57 AM
#26
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When I'll have the time, I'll take a look under the dash and will see which wire get electricity when the fog oem switch is pulled on. Maybe it's working even when the high bean are on, so I could use a conditional relay to by pass the OEM circuit and give power to the OEM fogs. The only bad thing, if it's working, is that the fog yellow lights will not lights up in the cluster when high beam is on with this mod
I currently have a pair of yellow Hella 500 fog lights on the bumper & a pair of white Hella 500 high beam on each side of the windshield. Both are on separate switches. They are currently wired to a fuse box, which take the power directly from the battery. This a temporary installation. Here's a picture..
I'm planing to install a conditional relay before both hella switches that will allow the power to pass only if the key is on (probably based on the lighter plug ). I'll have an other switch that will bypass it so when this one is on, these lights will works directly on the battery.
The final step will be to have all this connected to an other conditional relay that will make the Hella fogs lights up when the OEM Fogs are on, and the Hella high beam lights up when the OEM are on. I'll then be able to open all the lights at the same time with the OEM lights arm if the proper switches are on. I'll also be able to control them separately with, or without the power on.
This is only for trail purpose. With all the switch off, the Hells lights will not lights up at all and the
I currently have a pair of yellow Hella 500 fog lights on the bumper & a pair of white Hella 500 high beam on each side of the windshield. Both are on separate switches. They are currently wired to a fuse box, which take the power directly from the battery. This a temporary installation. Here's a picture..
I'm planing to install a conditional relay before both hella switches that will allow the power to pass only if the key is on (probably based on the lighter plug ). I'll have an other switch that will bypass it so when this one is on, these lights will works directly on the battery.
The final step will be to have all this connected to an other conditional relay that will make the Hella fogs lights up when the OEM Fogs are on, and the Hella high beam lights up when the OEM are on. I'll then be able to open all the lights at the same time with the OEM lights arm if the proper switches are on. I'll also be able to control them separately with, or without the power on.
This is only for trail purpose. With all the switch off, the Hells lights will not lights up at all and the
09-16-2008, 05:08 PM
#27
JK Super Freak
if you need them all t owork for just a short time together to see a blind curve ahead or something in the road just pull and hold the high beam lever TOWARD you.. the factory fogs stay on and the high beams come on while you hold the lever.. you will get about 30-45 seconds before the computer shuts off the fogs.... is great if you just need a glance....
-Christopher
-Christopher
09-17-2008, 04:41 PM
#29
JK Enthusiast
tht word has no meaning in mexico when you drive
09-23-2008, 07:34 AM
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As I described above, I plan to connect the 500 Hella fogs on a relay that will detect if the OEM fogs are open and same thing for my Hella 500 high beams. So, I did it and it's working well for the fogs, but I have a problem with the High Beam...
Since I'm in Canada, I have DRL on my JK. I know that the DRL are in fact a pulse in the electrical power and not a lower and constant power. On my Mazda3 I had before my JK, I just bypass my DRL to install HID on regular lights. For the JK, it appear that the DRL are on the high beam! So when the lights are off and the hand brake is down, I have my DRL open, and a relay that goes "tictictictictictictictic".... I'm pretty sure that's bad for it. I need to find a way to detect that before the relay and to just stop that if it's on DRL...
Since I'm in Canada, I have DRL on my JK. I know that the DRL are in fact a pulse in the electrical power and not a lower and constant power. On my Mazda3 I had before my JK, I just bypass my DRL to install HID on regular lights. For the JK, it appear that the DRL are on the high beam! So when the lights are off and the hand brake is down, I have my DRL open, and a relay that goes "tictictictictictictictic".... I'm pretty sure that's bad for it. I need to find a way to detect that before the relay and to just stop that if it's on DRL...