Hey all - so with this storm we're having in FL, I think somehow it contributed to my KC Fog lights to stop working. I looked at the fuses - and they are both good. Where does anyone suggest trying to go from there? All of the grounds look fine so I'm just really not sure what happened. They've worked for a long time, and now just wont turn on....

Thanks!

 

Look at it ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLL.

I'd personally start with a voltmeter and see if there's power from the Battery to the relay...THORUGH the relay....to the switch AND to the other side of it...all the way down the line--- And then take a looksie to make sure the bulbs aint shot (Since both arn't working you *might* concievably blown both at the same time....SLIM chance of that but still possible).......

 

i managed o blow both of mine at the same time. Of course it could have had a lot to do with the log-skidder rut i dropped the front end into... made a pretty good splash .

I would do as suggested, start working through it one step at a time with a voltmeter.

 

Alright, Awesome - soon as I can get my hand on a DMM I will start doing that... How will I test from the battery to the Relay? Just hold a tab on the positive of battery and then the other end on ________?
Just not to sure of what point to point to check really -


And as for "housing" you mean near the light itself?

Thanks for all the help- much appreciated

 

You are testing that power (Continutity) can get from:

1. wire from battery to relay
2. THROUGH the relay
3. Relay wire to switch
4. THROUGH the switch
5. Wire from relay OUT- to the light(s)
6. the IN wire of the light
7. the power THORUGH the light
8. the OUT wire from the light
9. I think that's it

Voltmeters are cheap... but I'd stilllllllllllll say splurge just a little...chances are if you've EVER needed one...you'll need one again at some time. Buy it right the first time and you'll never have to again

 

X2 on this one.

 

Awesome, thanks so so much - I plan to do this tomorrow. So just do a continuity check? Would there be any reason not getting a full voltage signal from the battery and have to measure that? Thanks all -

 

Yep. Continutity check...... either something is not getting power, not getting power thorugh it, or it got (past tense) toooooo much power and blew (i.e. the fuse, the switch, the relay, one of the wires...or both bulbs)

........... I see I did forget to mention you *could* add another step in there...but its overkill. I HOPE/ASSUME you've got a fuse in there between the battery and the relay....but you *could check* the section of wire from the battery to the fuse....THROUGH the fuse...and then the section of wire from the fuse on up to the relay: BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTT, but for the sake of expediency just checking the *whole lengh* from battery to relay (with fuse between the the two) you would be checking all this at once instead of all the individual line sections.


If ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL THAT FAILS--- as in you ARE getting power ALLLLLLLLLLL the way to/through everything down to the last light's out----- I would REALLY look to your ground wire(s) having just reached total corrosion stage...or something and have just lost contact with the frame/ground........

 

Soooooooooooo,

Its been more than a week.... Did ya' find out the problem?

 

I FINALLY did - Sorry to take so long to be back...
I replaced the Relay - and that did the trick... yet the fuse to the switch blew as well... so I replaced that and all is good... until a week later where that same fuse blew again... Why would this be?! The switch fuse blowing...

Does the ground on the switch effect it? If the ground isnt good enough could that cause the fuse to keep blowing?