fan relay quit
#1
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Winchester, VA
fan relay quit
My engine fan relay went out. My oem fan crapped out on my last year, so i replaced it with a spal 3500cfm high output fan.
My question is, should i replace it with another oem fan relay, or go to a high amp relay kit for it?
My question is, should i replace it with another oem fan relay, or go to a high amp relay kit for it?
#2
That would depend on the draw of the new fan. You want the fuse to blow first so step up to the nearest fuse rating above the amp draw. Step the relay up another 20% or so. You should be good there but there is no harm in going bigger with the relay. Most relays these days are 30/40 amp in the automotive aftermarket field.
#4
Have a 2013 and had fan problems also. Replaced all of the obvious things and still didn't work. Had to take it to the local dealer (we were out of town) and got it diagnosed. The fan is canibus controlled and the program that controls the fan operation needed to be reprogrammed. They had no explanation for it but haven't had any problem with it again.
#6
Have a 2013 and had fan problems also. Replaced all of the obvious things and still didn't work. Had to take it to the local dealer (we were out of town) and got it diagnosed. The fan is canibus controlled and the program that controls the fan operation needed to be reprogrammed. They had no explanation for it but haven't had any problem with it again.
You said the relay went out. Did you test it? It may also be the temp sensor.
The relays are pretty easy to test. Apply 12v across pin 85 to 86, one side to power and one side to ground, and there should be continuity between pins 30 and 87. If there is, the relay is good. But if anything is interrupting the power to the control circuit (pins 85 and 86), then the fan won't turn on. If anything is interrupting the power circuit (pins 30 and 87), then the fan won't turn on. Here is a schematic to show how a SPST relay works. Just test for expected values at each pin.
"Wired the fn direct and it came on, so i know the fan works"
Edit: I thought I read that the fan did work when wired directly to the battery. So it's the fan or the ground.
Last edited by 14Sport; 03-25-2015 at 03:07 AM.
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#8
OK. A fan should last for years unless something else is going on.
Multimeters have gotten pretty cheap these days and it may be worth getting one for yourself.
But anyway, check the expected voltages at the relay to get an idea.
Multimeters have gotten pretty cheap these days and it may be worth getting one for yourself.
But anyway, check the expected voltages at the relay to get an idea.
#9
I noticed someone above said to us a higher rated fuse.
Anytime a higher rated fuse is installed, the wiring has to be upgraded so it can safely handle the higher amperage the new fuse will allow.
After all, the fuse protects the circuit, not the appliance.
Anytime a higher rated fuse is installed, the wiring has to be upgraded so it can safely handle the higher amperage the new fuse will allow.
After all, the fuse protects the circuit, not the appliance.
#10
True. But the fuse has to be rated higher than the appliance draws or it will constantly blow.
And good point about upgrading the wiring. I assumed new stronger fan = new wiring but shouldn't make that assumption.
And good point about upgrading the wiring. I assumed new stronger fan = new wiring but shouldn't make that assumption.
Last edited by 14Sport; 03-25-2015 at 03:15 AM.