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Electrical question--KC Slimlights popping fuse after install

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Old 03-09-2012, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ZMagic97
Seems like you need a bigger fuse. 30A would work.
Depends. One should never assume that it is safe just to simply install a bigger fuse.
Old 03-09-2012, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford
Depends. One should never assume that it is safe just to simply install a bigger fuse.
I wouldn't necessarily call it an assumption. 12V source and 260 total watts comes to 21.6 amps. I would agree this information compared to the instructions does bring up some questions. Could always just lay the lights out on the ground and make another harness with an inline fuse and try a 20A then a 30A. If the 20A works on the secondary harness on the ground, then there is a wiring issue somewhere.
Old 03-09-2012, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ZMagic97
I wouldn't necessarily call it an assumption. ---------- Could always just lay the lights out on the ground and make another harness with an inline fuse and try a 20A then a 30A. If the 20A works on the secondary harness on the ground, then there is a wiring issue somewhere.
I would call that an assumption. You did the math. Why not complete the design process?
Old 03-09-2012, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JMcD
Has to be a problem caused by solar flares! I would actually put thicker gauge wiring in. I've had to do that before with kc lights. Not sure why it worked but it did. A lot of old school jeep guys never use the wiring supplied.
More copper = less voltage drop = less current draw. The current calculation in an earlier post is accurate, but the larger gauge wire helps.
Old 03-09-2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by CF2010
More copper = less voltage drop = less current draw. The current calculation in an earlier post is accurate, but the larger gauge wire helps.
Larger is always better. But not always necessary. My point: Correct circuit design.



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