Electrical question--KC Slimlights popping fuse after install
03-08-2012, 04:47 PM
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Electrical question--KC Slimlights popping fuse after install
Just installed the KC slimlights long range lights. Went with the RR pillar mount and the 4 Daystar rocker switches. Ran a common power to all 4 switches, a common ground to all 4 switches, and 4 individual load wires-one to each switch. Ran the load wires to a terminal so I could make future installs simpler by having the terminal for the load wires ready to go (got the idea from "NEWERE JK" on youtube). Everything else was done per the KC wiring diagram.
Lights worked for about 15 minutes, then when I was tightening them into place on the windshield mounts, after that they won't turn on and keep popping the 20A fuse on the power wire that runs into the relay.
The switches are still good and all light up... But hit the switch to the KC lights with a new fuse installed, POP.
Any ideas?? Double checked all wiring (Thought I did a good job of it, it's all clean)... Could it be the relay has gone bad??
Lights worked for about 15 minutes, then when I was tightening them into place on the windshield mounts, after that they won't turn on and keep popping the 20A fuse on the power wire that runs into the relay.
The switches are still good and all light up... But hit the switch to the KC lights with a new fuse installed, POP.
Any ideas?? Double checked all wiring (Thought I did a good job of it, it's all clean)... Could it be the relay has gone bad??
03-08-2012, 06:20 PM
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Where is your ground at? If it's on a painted surface it will not be sufficient enough. I imagine you checked this, but just throwing it out there. Also, how many watts are those lights?
03-08-2012, 08:00 PM
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They are the 130 watt slimlights. I saw on another writeup on another forum that if the power was running from the relay to the battery, that you should also route the ground to the battery.
At first, the ground from the relay was attached to a ground stud on the passenger side in front of the battery, above left wheel well (chassis) as was the ground for the switches. I re routed the relay ground to the battery, same problem. Switches all working still (LED's light up).
At first, the ground from the relay was attached to a ground stud on the passenger side in front of the battery, above left wheel well (chassis) as was the ground for the switches. I re routed the relay ground to the battery, same problem. Switches all working still (LED's light up).
03-08-2012, 08:14 PM
#6
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They are the 130 watt slimlights. I saw on another writeup on another forum that if the power was running from the relay to the battery, that you should also route the ground to the battery.
At first, the ground from the relay was attached to a ground stud on the passenger side in front of the battery, above left wheel well (chassis) as was the ground for the switches. I re routed the relay ground to the battery, same problem. Switches all working still (LED's light up).
At first, the ground from the relay was attached to a ground stud on the passenger side in front of the battery, above left wheel well (chassis) as was the ground for the switches. I re routed the relay ground to the battery, same problem. Switches all working still (LED's light up).
260 ÷ 12 = 21.6 amps. The 20 amp fuse can't handle it. (Which doesn't make sense, because the instructions say to us a 20 amp fuse for the two 130 watt lights.)
If all your wiring is correct, call the manufacturer and ask about the fuse rating.
Last edited by ronjenx; 03-08-2012 at 08:35 PM.
03-09-2012, 03:45 AM
#7
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If each light is 130 watts, then you have 260 watts running through the 20 amp fuse.
260 ÷ 12 = 21.6 amps. The 20 amp fuse can't handle it. (Which doesn't make sense, because the instructions say to us a 20 amp fuse for the two 130 watt lights.)
If all your wiring is correct, call the manufacturer and ask about the fuse rating.
260 ÷ 12 = 21.6 amps. The 20 amp fuse can't handle it. (Which doesn't make sense, because the instructions say to us a 20 amp fuse for the two 130 watt lights.)
If all your wiring is correct, call the manufacturer and ask about the fuse rating.
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03-09-2012, 04:48 AM
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Has to be a problem caused by solar flares! I would actually put thicker gauge wiring in. I've had to do that before with kc lights. Not sure why it worked but it did. A lot of old school jeep guys never use the wiring supplied.
03-09-2012, 05:10 AM
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