Dual battery set up
08-12-2011, 07:32 AM
#61
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Thats a good idea.....I've put small spot welds on all my light mounting hardware, and fabbed up locking devices for my winch and bumper. I think I have more padlocks on my rig than Ft. Knox has for the National Treasury. Sad huh 
12-22-2011, 05:09 PM
#62
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Dual Battery: Isolator issues
I purchased the Benchmark Design's dual battery kit earlier in the year and it took a few month's to get it and it was incomplete. I never heard back from my requests but he did manage to send me all the missing parts. After saving up the money for a 2nd Yellow Top Optima I finally installed the kit a few month's ago. A few weeks after I installed it I was re-arranging some of the wires and caused an arc or spark with the solenoid part of the Smart Isolator which caused it to work improperly (i.e. it was not clicking while pressing the boost button and not charging the auxillary battery). I was able to find a replacement in town and the new one appeared to be working fine. It was charging both batteries and isolating them with the engine shut off and using accessories on the auxillary battery. Then (all of a sudden today) I noticed it was not connecting the two batteries while driving around. I drove around for quite awhile thinking it may have not charged the main battery yet the status light still doesn't come on and the auxillary battery doesn't read the normal 14.7V when they are connected and the engine is running. Also the boost switch won't connect the two when the engine is off like it normally does. I'm thinking that it may have been fried again on something. I've noticed that some people have covered the top parts of the isolator with electrical tape. This may be part of the problem but I've also been reading up that the JK has a 160 Amp alternator and the isolator I received with my kit is the 85 Amp one (the 48525) and not the stronger 200 Amp model (the 48530). Perhaps the 85 Amp alternator is not powerful enough for the factory JK 160 Amp alternator???
Main battery is on the right and the auxillary battery is on the left.
Main battery is on the right and the auxillary battery is on the left.
12-22-2011, 07:48 PM
#63
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I wouldn't hesitate to purchase and install another Benchmark setup, regardless of the posts I've read. I am extremely happy with the quality of mine, and in the end, that is what your paying for. I realize getting it fast is nice, but I consider some things well worth the wait. This is one of them.
12-22-2011, 07:57 PM
#64
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Learn from my experience. I paid for a stage 3 kit, I was told prior to ordering it was available and would ship. After payment, nothing. Not one email, pm, or phone call answered. Just my money stolen. I'm going on almost a year with nothing.
I cannot believe anyone would buy from that "company".
Part it out yourself, rr tray, cole hersee 200 amp, batteries, and some wire.
I cannot believe anyone would buy from that "company".
Part it out yourself, rr tray, cole hersee 200 amp, batteries, and some wire.
12-22-2011, 08:00 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by pkess3
I purchased the Benchmark Design's dual battery kit earlier in the year and it took a few month's to get it and it was incomplete. I never heard back from my requests but he did manage to send me all the missing parts. After saving up the money for a 2nd Yellow Top Optima I finally installed the kit a few month's ago. A few weeks after I installed it I was re-arranging some of the wires and caused an arc or spark with the solenoid part of the Smart Isolator which caused it to work improperly (i.e. it was not clicking while pressing the boost button and not charging the auxillary battery). I was able to find a replacement in town and the new one appeared to be working fine. It was charging both batteries and isolating them with the engine shut off and using accessories on the auxillary battery. Then (all of a sudden today) I noticed it was not connecting the two batteries while driving around. I drove around for quite awhile thinking it may have not charged the main battery yet the status light still doesn't come on and the auxillary battery doesn't read the normal 14.7V when they are connected and the engine is running. Also the boost switch won't connect the two when the engine is off like it normally does. I'm thinking that it may have been fried again on something. I've noticed that some people have covered the top parts of the isolator with electrical tape. This may be part of the problem but I've also been reading up that the JK has a 160 Amp alternator and the isolator I received with my kit is the 85 Amp one (the 48525) and not the stronger 200 Amp model (the 48530). Perhaps the 85 Amp alternator is not powerful enough for the factory JK 160 Amp alternator???
Main battery is on the right and the auxillary battery is on the left.
Main battery is on the right and the auxillary battery is on the left.
12-23-2011, 03:04 PM
#66
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Learn from my experience. I paid for a stage 3 kit, I was told prior to ordering it was available and would ship. After payment, nothing. Not one email, pm, or phone call answered. Just my money stolen. I'm going on almost a year with nothing.
I cannot believe anyone would buy from that "company".
Part it out yourself, rr tray, cole hersee 200 amp, batteries, and some wire.
I cannot believe anyone would buy from that "company".
Part it out yourself, rr tray, cole hersee 200 amp, batteries, and some wire.
12-23-2011, 05:20 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by Stillmotion
model number 24143 on the 200 amp?
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...336&id=1238051
I purchased mine here. Shipped quickly but wherever you purchase the 48530 was the model #.
12-23-2011, 05:55 PM
#68
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Cole Hersee 48530
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...336&id=1238051
I purchased mine here. Shipped quickly but wherever you purchase the 48530 was the model #.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...336&id=1238051
I purchased mine here. Shipped quickly but wherever you purchase the 48530 was the model #.
4 gauge wire? or are guys dropping in some 0/2? I wouldn't mind setting one up on my own but I just want to know home much ill be putting into it $ wise before I get started.
01-01-2012, 07:41 PM
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Ok I went and bought the 200 Amp Cole Hersee Smart Isolator (48530) and used it to replace my fried 85 Amp one and ever since I connected the batteries the status indicator remains on constantly without isolating the batteries even after sitting over night. It even remains connected after using my 2000 Watt inverter (which is connected to the auxillary battery) to power my 2 HP air compressor for over 10 minutes without the engine on. It just drains both batteries since it stays connected. What am I missing here? It was working fine for two weeks with the 85 Amp model (or so I thought based on the voltage and when the status light would turn on and off) before it just decided to quit.
