Driving Lights Trigger
#11
It's weird because mine only flicker when the engine is on and also while driving and I accelerate on the gas or apply the break sometimes... BUT if I'm in park with the engine off my Rigid LEDs don't do anything wrong, they work perfectly...
I was thinking if adding a Truck-Lite PWM harness/adapter to it would fix it maybe? this PWM harness/adapter is the same one I had to install when I installed my Truck-Lite LED headlights
I was thinking if adding a Truck-Lite PWM harness/adapter to it would fix it maybe? this PWM harness/adapter is the same one I had to install when I installed my Truck-Lite LED headlights
#12
JK Freak
Terps: I just put JW Speaker Evo2J on my buddy's new Rubicon; they don't need a harness for anti-flicker (it's built in). I have TLs on my 2012 and they do flicker but it doesn't bother me. I also have a 20" rigid bar wired to turn on with my high beams; no issue on my 2012 with relay chatter. But I just wired the same setup on his 2016 and I'm getting the relay chatter. Can you please explain how you used the harness in regards to your lightbar relay? I tapped directly off the high beam wiring on his (as I did mine) so I'm not sure where a harness would go and which wires to tap. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#13
Terps: I just put JW Speaker Evo2J on my buddy's new Rubicon; they don't need a harness for anti-flicker (it's built in). I have TLs on my 2012 and they do flicker but it doesn't bother me. I also have a 20" rigid bar wired to turn on with my high beams; no issue on my 2012 with relay chatter. But I just wired the same setup on his 2016 and I'm getting the relay chatter. Can you please explain how you used the harness in regards to your lightbar relay? I tapped directly off the high beam wiring on his (as I did mine) so I'm not sure where a harness would go and which wires to tap. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#14
JK Junkie
I am using my highbeam to trigger my HID lights as well. Works fine for me, no flicker chatter or anything. been running like this for 4 years and 180,000 kms.
#15
JK Freak
KoJack: long time no talk, ha! Yeah, on my 2012 I'm on year 3 with no issues either. On this new 2016 with the Rigid Industries relay, it's chattering like crazy. Terp, thanks for the advice on trying a different relay. If that doesn't work, I'll call JW Speaker tomorrow and will see if they can make an H4 to H4 anti flicker harness (because the new Evo2J (Jeep stands for Jeep) come with H4 plugs, so a Truck Lite harness won't work. I'd love to make it plug and play, and then tap my lightbar relay source downstream of the anti flicker harness). But for this morning, I'll swap in a nicer relay and see if that works. Thanks guys. If you've seen any of my posts on wiring, you'll know this isn't my first rodeo. Weird that a 2012 works fine, but the 2016 doesn't.
#17
JK Junkie
Probably the opposite actually. Better relays are more sensitive to voltage changes, so the Rigid will chatter. Cheap ones are not as sensitive so they will not. I use the suntech brand of relays and they work great. they die every 4 or 5 years but unplug and replace with a new one for 5 bucks. No big deal. The best thing I did was cut the H13 plugs off the harness and solder right into the truck lite anti flicker. No more issues with my headlights flickering, cutting out, general weirdness. They work as advertised now.
#18
JK Freak
Kojack: I didn't think of that. I realize you cannot judge a relay by it housing, but the one I used seemed heavier, was completely sealed, and "appeared" to be a better relay. I wished I could remember where I got it. Anyway, I guess I'd better pull the Rigid out of the trash and hold onto it! Thanks again for the insight.
#19
JK Junkie
[SUB][/SUB]
No problem. Yeah, the suntech I use has metal and looks like its epoxied sealed etc, but the hella is a better relay. But the hella caused chatter.
yeah grab that back out of the trash, never know where you want one of those out of the pwm circuit.
Kojack: I didn't think of that. I realize you cannot judge a relay by it housing, but the one I used seemed heavier, was completely sealed, and "appeared" to be a better relay. I wished I could remember where I got it. Anyway, I guess I'd better pull the Rigid out of the trash and hold onto it! Thanks again for the insight.
yeah grab that back out of the trash, never know where you want one of those out of the pwm circuit.