Do you wire winch direct to battery?
#11
While what you are saying is true, with the battery being so close to the winch (i.e. cable length is short and protected), is this really something to worry about?
Probably a better (unfortunately more expensive as well), would be a high current fuse set inline with the winch positive laid close to the positive connection to power. Running a disconnect would either mean it would be useless or you'd create the need for the disconnect with the extra long positive lead. Both issues are due to placement. Seems silly to create a problem when none exists.
Probably a better (unfortunately more expensive as well), would be a high current fuse set inline with the winch positive laid close to the positive connection to power. Running a disconnect would either mean it would be useless or you'd create the need for the disconnect with the extra long positive lead. Both issues are due to placement. Seems silly to create a problem when none exists.
I know this is from a sanctioning body not necessarily related to winch connections, but IASCA requires the power cables be fused within 18" of the terminal. So the 4-5' cable run to a winch, is not considered close enough to be safely out of harms way under most circumstance. There are other sanctioning bodies who require similar for power cables ran to the battery.
The problem with using a fused connection is the amount of amperes a winch draws, and the availability/size/cost of a fuse and fuse block to fit those requirements.
Whether this is something to worry about, is up to the user. Although if you compete in certain events, it may be required. (Not sure what a Jeep would compete in, but many sanctioning bodies require disconnects.)
Last edited by syn-ack; 08-04-2014 at 03:57 PM.
#12
Not really...
I know this is from a sanctioning body not necessarily related to winch connections, but IASCA requires the power cables be fused within 18" of the terminal. So the 4-5' cable run to a winch, is not considered close enough to be safely out of harms way under most circumstance. There are other sanctioning bodies, such as NHRA, NASCAR, etc. who require similar for power cables ran to the battery.
The problem with using a fused connection is the amount of amperes a winch draws, and the availability/size/cost of a fuse and fuse block to fit those requirements.
Whether this is something to worry about, is up to the user. Although if you compete in certain events, it may be required. (Not sure what a Jeep would compete in, but many sanctioning bodies require disconnects.)
I know this is from a sanctioning body not necessarily related to winch connections, but IASCA requires the power cables be fused within 18" of the terminal. So the 4-5' cable run to a winch, is not considered close enough to be safely out of harms way under most circumstance. There are other sanctioning bodies, such as NHRA, NASCAR, etc. who require similar for power cables ran to the battery.
The problem with using a fused connection is the amount of amperes a winch draws, and the availability/size/cost of a fuse and fuse block to fit those requirements.
Whether this is something to worry about, is up to the user. Although if you compete in certain events, it may be required. (Not sure what a Jeep would compete in, but many sanctioning bodies require disconnects.)
So.... you missed my point. Place the kill where you would like to (near the battery) and it's not usable. Put it in the cab (driver accessable as it is suppose to be) and you've created/exasperated the problem you are trying to exterminate.
My guess, and I could very well be wrong, is that those bodies you are referring to are talking about either a fuse placed inline with the battery or a kill if the battery is that close to the driver, which probably isn't the case of the OP.
I run a kill right next to my seat... all I have to do is run my hand down to the floor and turn.... but my battery is directly behind my seat, putting the kill 12" away.
#13
Not sure the OP competes with his car. Surely the OP would have been up on regulations of his racing org if he was apart of that.
So.... you missed my point. Place the kill where you would like to (near the battery) and it's not usable. Put it in the cab (driver accessable as it is suppose to be) and you've created/exasperated the problem you are trying to exterminate.
My guess, and I could very well be wrong, is that those bodies you are referring to are talking about either a fuse placed inline with the battery or a kill if the battery is that close to the driver, which probably isn't the case of the OP.
I run a kill right next to my seat... all I have to do is run my hand down to the floor and turn.... but my battery is directly behind my seat, putting the kill 12" away.
So.... you missed my point. Place the kill where you would like to (near the battery) and it's not usable. Put it in the cab (driver accessable as it is suppose to be) and you've created/exasperated the problem you are trying to exterminate.
My guess, and I could very well be wrong, is that those bodies you are referring to are talking about either a fuse placed inline with the battery or a kill if the battery is that close to the driver, which probably isn't the case of the OP.
I run a kill right next to my seat... all I have to do is run my hand down to the floor and turn.... but my battery is directly behind my seat, putting the kill 12" away.
Sorry, I didn't get the piece about running the switch to the interior, and back out to the battery... Yes, that would be a lot of extra wiring, and would introduce other problems. The length of the cable having been increased, would call for a larger gauge cable to be used as well. Running such large wire in and out of the firewall, would be difficult enough in of itself, and as you pointed out, would add more spots for something to go wrong. I'd not recommend this setup. Most of us have our batteries mounted under the hood, and that is where I would suggest installing the disconnect, as close to the battery as possible. Yes it is inconvenient, in that you would have to pop the hood to turn it on, but this is what some people do.
Various sanctioning bodies require the fused/switched connection close to the battery, for certain component connectivity, regardless of battery placement.
Hopefully that makes sense, if not let me know and I will try to clear it up.
#14
Do you wire winch direct to battery?
I did something a bit different with mine. I got some longer wires and put my controller box closer to the battery. My bumper is a homemade job and I didn't want the box to stick up. I do have a wireless remote and I have a kill switch too because of the remote. I had a wireless on my atv and it would get bumped from time to time (it was on the keychain) and start running on it's own.
I'm direct wired too.
I'm direct wired too.
Last edited by simpleman909; 08-04-2014 at 05:51 PM.
#15
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Yea, being the original poster, my JK is my daily driver to work and the bar. I've had it for 2 months now and I've been mild wheeling twice for a total of maybe 4 hours. I'm by no means a hard core rock smashing wheeler ;-)
I'm looking for a fun toy that I can take off road a few times a year and have a killer mall crawling look!
I'm looking for a fun toy that I can take off road a few times a year and have a killer mall crawling look!
#16
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Yea, being the original poster, my JK is my daily driver to work and the bar. I've had it for 2 months now and I've been mild wheeling twice for a total of maybe 4 hours. I'm by no means a hard core rock smashing wheeler ;-)
I'm looking for a fun toy that I can take off road a few times a year and have a killer mall crawling look!
I'm looking for a fun toy that I can take off road a few times a year and have a killer mall crawling look!
#17
It's not so much a matter of whether one competes, rather what level of safety do you want built into your vehicle.
Sorry, I didn't get the piece about running the switch to the interior, and back out to the battery... Yes, that would be a lot of extra wiring, and would introduce other problems. The length of the cable having been increased, would call for a larger gauge cable to be used as well. Running such large wire in and out of the firewall, would be difficult enough in of itself, and as you pointed out, would add more spots for something to go wrong. I'd not recommend this setup. Most of us have our batteries mounted under the hood, and that is where I would suggest installing the disconnect, as close to the battery as possible. Yes it is inconvenient, in that you would have to pop the hood to turn it on, but this is what some people do.
Various sanctioning bodies require the fused/switched connection close to the battery, for certain component connectivity, regardless of battery placement.
Hopefully that makes sense, if not let me know and I will try to clear it up.
Sorry, I didn't get the piece about running the switch to the interior, and back out to the battery... Yes, that would be a lot of extra wiring, and would introduce other problems. The length of the cable having been increased, would call for a larger gauge cable to be used as well. Running such large wire in and out of the firewall, would be difficult enough in of itself, and as you pointed out, would add more spots for something to go wrong. I'd not recommend this setup. Most of us have our batteries mounted under the hood, and that is where I would suggest installing the disconnect, as close to the battery as possible. Yes it is inconvenient, in that you would have to pop the hood to turn it on, but this is what some people do.
Various sanctioning bodies require the fused/switched connection close to the battery, for certain component connectivity, regardless of battery placement.
Hopefully that makes sense, if not let me know and I will try to clear it up.
You brought up competition, as if it were important, not me bud.
I can't think of a time when I didn't winch from the cab, unless I had been turned over.... if a kill isn't EXTREMELY EASY to get at by the operator, what good is it?
You wire as you wish... the direction you are getting is designed for cars going 100+ MPH and you are further extrapolating your own opinion from that and applying it to another sport. Can it apply, maybe, but why? OP... it's 100% not necessary for your application.
#18
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I opted for the overkill route! I have my winch switch under my dash. It activates a solenoid, which intern draws power for the winch directly from the battery, ( more or less acting like a relay)but it runs through a 200a knife fuse that actually sits right on top of my aux battery. I realize it may be a bit redundant, but it protects my battery from being over taxed, and it cannot even be turned on without first flipping the switch inside the cab to switch on the solenoid. The majority of the time it sits for ages before I use it, so I like it to be dormant until I do.
#19
Still.... I see words, yet I can't understand.
You brought up competition, as if it were important, not me bud.
I can't think of a time when I didn't winch from the cab, unless I had been turned over.... if a kill isn't EXTREMELY EASY to get at by the operator, what good is it?
You wire as you wish... the direction you are getting is designed for cars going 100+ MPH and you are further extrapolating your own opinion from that and applying it to another sport. Can it apply, maybe, but why? OP... it's 100% not necessary for your application.
You brought up competition, as if it were important, not me bud.
I can't think of a time when I didn't winch from the cab, unless I had been turned over.... if a kill isn't EXTREMELY EASY to get at by the operator, what good is it?
You wire as you wish... the direction you are getting is designed for cars going 100+ MPH and you are further extrapolating your own opinion from that and applying it to another sport. Can it apply, maybe, but why? OP... it's 100% not necessary for your application.
To say it is not necessary is your opinion, not sure what it is based on but I would like to hear. Do I think it is an absolutely necessary thing, no.. And in fact, I do not have mine switched at this time, rather direct to the battery. I was only pointing out the reasons why one would use a fuse/switch, and there are facts to back up the opinion/reasoning behind doing so.
Perhaps you are not realizing, the switch is always off, until you NEED the winch. Then you get out, as you would have to anyway, pop the hood, turn the switch on, and winch yourself in. After you're done, you switch it back off for continued driving. I am not sure how one could perceive this extra safety feature as a negative, useless, stupid, whatever. There are absolutely reasons to have it. Whether one needs it however, is subjective. I'm not the only one who understands the reasons for doing so, there are many people who in fact do wire a disconnect inline of their winch.
Last edited by syn-ack; 08-04-2014 at 05:51 PM.
#20
And go figure... As it happens, Warn, the popular winch manufacturer, sells an accessory for this specific purpose. However they use a solenoid relay, rather than a disconnect, but it serves the same purpose, no current through the long run cable when not needed. Not sure how long you've been wrenching, but old cars had the starter solenoid on the starter, most newer cars have the solenoid mounted close to the battery... Guess what one of the reasons why is.
https://www.warn.com/truck/accessori...nterrupt.shtml
https://www.warn.com/truck/accessori...nterrupt.shtml
Last edited by syn-ack; 08-04-2014 at 06:43 PM.