DIY Jeep Wrangler JK Morimoto Sealed 7 Projector Retrofit
This is what I purchased for the retrofit. Before you buy all this.
I want to let you know that this is a pretty big project, very time consuming. You can’t finish this in 1 full day. I have some minor experience installing basic hid kits with relay harness/capacitors etc. If you do not having experience try to youtube and understand what this whole harness is and how hid kits work before doing this install. Otherwise it can be pretty confusing.
Took me roughly.
Couple hours shrouds cutting
Let them dry 1 full day for JBweld (overkill again)
Headlight baking 1 day for dry
Otherside baking 1 day for dry
Prepare them bulbs in headlights. 30min
Rest of install: 3 hours of wasted time to learn that I came across all these problems of tight space. Where I was trying to mount the ballast, mopar harness etc) I had to go home, put my stock lights back on :(
Did some research and came back for another 3 hours to finish the install properly!!

Housings
2 x Morimoto Sealed7 Headlights
Projectors
2 x Mini D2S 3.0 S7 LHD
Shrouds
2 x Orbit
Ballasts
2 x 35W: Morimoto XB35 Computer
Ballast Igniters (Required w/ Ballasts)
2 x Morimoto XB Igniter (AMP)
Bulbs
2 x D2S: XB 5500K
Wire Harness
1 x Mopar Relay H13
Sealant
1 x Black: RetroRubber


Beautiful!


Time to cut the shroud, use a marker to draw your line. You will see how much you have to cut roughly. (scroll down)


Use a dremel to cut the shroud, was actually my first time using a dremel and it was very simple. Just wear some safety glasses so shit doesn’t go flying in your eyes and cut slow because, you cut too much there’s no going back! You can always cut more and smooth it out with the sander bit.
(picture shows the sanding tool)



You can see how much I had to cut.


One mistake I went through, I test fitted the shroud and pushed it in, and it locked into place before I even put the JB weld.
I had to take it out (loosen screws at the back of headlight) it was a pain in the ass. It probably wouldn’t of came out ever even if I didn’t put JBweld. But I didn’t want to take the risk.




What a difference its going to be!


Stock




A little side project  (NOTHING TO DO WITH THE RETROFIT)


Time to get these babies prepared. Make sure you clean the projector lens. I used LCD screen cleaner with a soft microfiber cloth.


Came out very clean. Don’t forget to clean the headlight inner black plastic too.


Ok looks clean and all ready for Butyl Time
The headlight cover has “Morimoto writing at the bottom” and little line that matches up with the bottom of the headlight. Make sure you match it up correctly. (so nothings upside down)



Butyl rubber time!! I stretched it about half size of the insert grove and some butyl still went overboard (very little though). Don’t use so much!!!


Got the oven ready for bake at 270F , Put the headlight in the oven for 7 min. I did one per day as I didn’t have enough clamps to do 2 same time/day.


As you take them out of the oven. Go around the headlight and push/compress the headlight all around the edges. Use some force then you clamp them up. (put some zipties too lol)
I let them rest for 24hrs. (overkill but rather be safe than sorry)


Did a water test, and it passed! (Rather redue it now than in the future right?)


Damn! My pugs hair is in it! I’m not going to re-due it!


SOFA TIME!!!
Time to clean the bulbs with rubbing alcohol
Make sure you don’t touch the bulb and leave oil on the bulbs as this would cause it to bubble and blow out very quick. Thats why we clean em!


Time to install the bulb,
Take off the threaded ring and spring. The bulb will fit perfectly in the top notch (only one way to put it)




Top notch reference


Time to install the bulb socket thingy rubber grommet goes in the hole. You will be putting the white and brown wires through the grommet.


Why it seem so tight when putting in the grommet??


Should look like this when you are done




Should look like this when you are done


Install the white and brown Highbeam wire. NOTE!!! THIS PICTURE WAS INCORRECT.
The white is ground and brown is positive (I originally google’d those colors and it said brown was European standard for GROUND, I contact TRS to make sure and they told me the opposite)
SO
WHITE= GROUND/NEGATIVE
BROWN=POWER/POSITIVE


Clean the vent hole with rubbing alcohol and put that vent sticker on that you got in the small Ziploc with the rubbing alcohol packs.


Pack these up for tmw’s install.


Unplug the signal lights and remove the grill and headlights
(you should know how to do this) otherwise youtube it and come back here)


Passenger side
It is extremely tight in the headlight spot. The damn Brake reservoir gets in the way. And the factory harness makes it tight as well. You will be using the Source plug on the passenger side. (as the mopar harness only option on passenger side) Driver side I electric taped up like crazy so it doesn’t get water in or has smaller chance


Add a couple of washers!
remove the 10mm bolt and put about 4-5 washers and let the Reservoir sit a little higher


Drivers side.
More space!! BUT!!!! The Damn horn! Omg this Jeep has no space at all. Unlike my previous Acura’s/Honda/Mazda had soo much space to work with.
Anyways the Horn, loosen the 10mm bolt a little and turn the horn a little. I also pushed the bracket so the horn is more up on an angle. (just push the horn out of the way so the damn headlight could fit)
REMEMBER *Driver side I electric taped up like crazy so it doesn’t get water in or has smaller chance*
So once you know how you will run you Mopar Wire harness then you can plug in the highbeam and source and have the amp’s connected for the ballast.


Make sure the Morimoto writing on the outside of the headlight front cover is at the bottom of the headlight. Add the Chrome Ring that holds the headlight in place. The headlight seems like it is slightly too big for the jeep (depth wise) so there is some pressure. You have to Push the headlight in hard and make sure it is straight and put the rings on a screw it down! (easier to do with a friend) did it myself though.


This is the only option I could mount the harness Diconnect the Negative terminal and Connect the Harness power cable to positive battery
The battery/power wire was so short (sucks!). I will extend it before the fuse and battery in the future so I can make the wire more cleaner and it is not ontop of my air filter.



Then it the Mopar control is mounted in the little corner, I ziptied it. Any further down the battery/power cable cannot reach the battery. The wires of the mopar control should be downwards so water doesn’t get in the mopar control unit. (recommended by TRS)
The other wires because of the battery/power cable on the mopar control unit bends up and theres a little pressure on the harness. That will fix when I extend the power/battery cable in the future)


Run across the factory harness to ziptie.
In this pic you can see the Capacitor ziptied


Ziptie and clean up wires. You can run wires infront as well as when you put the grill back theres quite a bit of space. (more than the engine bay at least, Geez)


Mount the resistors X 2.
These get extremely hot so don’t mount them to plastic.


I drilled through using a small drill bit (very easy as it is pretty thin metal) then put one small screw on the left and one longer to hold down the both resistors and grounded under the right side of the resistor (both of the grounds)
I did this way so the wires wouldn’t touch the resistors at all. Its winter and cold here in Ontario right now, I’m not sure how summer will work with the resistors ontop of eachother but I’m certain it won’t be a problem. (No worries mon!)


Zip tie the left side down through the hole so it stays in place.


Ballast and Amp sit in this corner cavity.
I put one screw, drilled with a self tapping screw


Ground using a 13mm nut. (had hunt my tool box for 2 X 13mm nuts


Repeat otherside






Zip tie the ballast Amp




Test the lights. Sweet they work! (intense moments lol)
Put the stuff back and clean up your tools!! I should of Aimed and adjust them
There should be an adjustment bolt/screw. T25 I think it was? (same as the ones you removed for the headlight ring) Should be located at 10olock on Passenger side/ 2oclock Drivers side or vise versa. I can’t remember. Anyways 1 adjustment screw for each side.
If you don’t know how to line them up. YOUTUBE!




Couple of shots, They need to be aligned! But still very bright, pictures don’t do justice!!!.
They have some colour but I was so close to the drive up door you can’t see it. It only looks white. You actually get lots of colour flicker.








Here you can see the colour flicker, blue white and purple They are so bright and clean! I was very shocked how quality these projectors are. Again Pictures don’t do justice. This whole setup cost me almost $700CDN but I realize why. They are QUALITY!!!.

Thanks for viewing,
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will try to help you out as much as possible.

 

Excellent write up!
I didn't use the load resistors when I wired up my sealed7s, and everything seems fine. I thought it said in the install instructions from TRS you didn't need them?

I still have them so if I have a problem I guess I can throw them back in...

 

Thanks!
I didn't see that in the instructions but I was thinking the same thing.
The resistors are used more for led hyper flashing.
I don't think you need them for this setup. But I didn't want to leave the harness open anyways.

 

Amazing write up! I purchased the d2s without realizing there was already a projector kit for the Jeep. Now I've been in a DIY project for the Jeep for the longest trying to make it work with all the cutting and gluing. They better be worth all that time and work!

 

thanks.
I was going to go that route but couldn't find an extra set of headlights to buy.
Also the leveling before sealing up the headlights i was thinking will be a hassle too.
it is a lot of work. I may do it in the future to my stock headlights, just for the project.
good luck!

 

Awesome install. I'm very jealous. I've done a few retrofits in the past and I've been itching to do this install. This doesn't help.

 

I put my Night Suns in my jeep and it took me 20 whole minutes! Course I was pretty drunk at the time...

 

haha, worth every penny + time!

 

yes those are very easy to install